Hey all I recently bought a 1992 Camaro RS (4ish months ago) and the AC/heating/Defrosters haven't worked since I bought it. The lady I bought it off of says the fan may have went or the fuse may be blown. I'm sorry but I'm 17 and new to the whole car thing, can anyone point me in the right direction as to where to look under the hood for all of the AC stuff? The fan, the fuses etc.

When I run the AC no air comes out at all. If I run the heat/defrosters I can tell it turns the heat on because near the vents is warm but it doesn't blow air out. Also when I have the heat/defrosters on, if I am stopped at a stop sign or parked my engine will sound smooth and then seem to push itself so the car gets pushed like it is tryign to acclerate for about 1 second then ti goes back to normal and does this every 10 seconds. If anyone has any info that might help me to fix these problems I'd really appreciate it

I've been reading these forums since I have bought the car and finalyl decided to create an accoutn and hope to mayeb become more involved in the forums .

 

the stopped at a stop light and for a second it sounds like the engine is under a load should be the ac compressor kicking in. that means the compressor is good. so when you have it on anything but off you dont hear of feel the air?

 

Well yeah the sound fo the engine under load though it happens every 10 seconds and it just sounds under a load for 1 second. And yeah switching iton and off you don't feel any air at all.

 

thats just your ac compressor kicking on and off that is normal mine does that too. the next step would be to check your htr/ac fuse its a 25 amp fuse in your fuse block under the dash on the driver side.

 

here is a picture of the fuseblock. i would pull the fuse and see if its blown on not. its the one in the second row from the top.

 

Awesome thanks! I'll be checkign that tomorrow after work, if the fuse is fine, what would you think I should check next?

 

the next step would be to check your blower high relay. which is what turns on you fan which is then routed to the resistor which controls the fan speed. but if the fuse is good and the relay is good then the next step after that would be to replace the fan itself. check the fuse and post up if its good. ill take a picture of the relay tomorrow and post them up if it is good.

 

just checked the fuse and the fuse is fine. i appreciate the help. So you'll post pics of what I should check next tomorrow? Sounds good to me

 

if this can help any this is the spot where it is. if you need an actual picture ill take them with the camera. its the blower high relay.

 

ok i went out and turned mine to vent and put it at full blast and pulled my fan fuse. i thought it was for the actual fans but decided to pull it and see. and the fan stopped when i pulled it. before you go to the relay check that fuse in the block that says fan.

 

checked both fuses and they r both fine. tomorrow i'll try and c if i can find that relay using that diagram.

 

Check the following links for pics and some ideas. A search will generally be beneficial):

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...er-heater.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...lower+resistor

JamesC

 

the first link that james c put up is what my picture looks like so i would look at that. it would be good to have another person. one of you turn the controlls on and off while the other feels the relay. you will be able to hear/feel it click.

 

Just checked and the relay is working/clicking. I guess that means my fan is broken? Where is the fan located and how do i go about removing it? Also, when my relay clicked also a circular part of my engine near the belts moved and made a loud click, is that normal? Thanks


Edit: is the blower motor what I will be replacing? (aka the fan?) or is the fan soemthign entirely different?

 

yes that other click is the clutch on you ac engaging thats normal. my next question to you is if you have a test light. if not then you are going to need one. you can go to your local autozone, pepboys, etc. when you have the test light i want you to do the following.

step 1
turn the ignition on and turn the fan to high. pull the connector out of the fan (see arrow in picture) take the ground wire of the test light (will be the only wire on the testlight) and connect it to the battery. then take the pointed end and put it into the part of the connector the purple wire is going into. if the wire isnt purple then is will be the non black wire. if that lights up then you have to move to the next step, if it does not light up then the head unit is bad.

step 2
take the ground wire off of the battery and put it on the ground (black wire) on the connector you unhooked. again put the other end into the purple side of the connector. if the light still turns on then that means the fan is bad. if it does not turn on that means there is a bad ground. if this is the case then you need to run a new ground. if this is confusing let me know and i can try and explain it better or do even better and make a video to post on youtube.



EDIT: yes the blower motor and the fan are the same thing

 

honestly it does seem slightly confusing to me, I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow after work but if you were to post a video i'm sure I and many others curious as to how to do this ourselves would enjoy and appreciate it Will let you know tomorrow how things go, probably wont be able to buy the test light until wednesday

 

I had the same problem and I just replaced the blower motor. It works fine now. Well, as fine as it ever did. Never had a lot of air flow. Might try jumpering it to the battery with a relay to have it work better.

These blower motors weren't ment to last twenty years with the fan being on hot or cold most of the time they were driven. Mine was all gummed up when I took it out.

As for the job itself, it's not easy. You'll need a metric set of sockets, with some extensions, and a couple of universal-joints in 1/4". It's pretty frustrating too, hitting your head up on the hood, and dealing with the giant wiring looms coming out of the passenger fender. It was a horrible job. So make sure to buy a new one, rather than one from a car that worked. But eventually you'll undo the four or five hex headed screws, and the motor with fan will come out, so swap the fan if you need to (New one had a fan for me) and reinstall.

And if you drop anything in that crevice, you'll need a magnet on a stick. And if you can't get it with the magnet on a stick, your gonna need to take a hose and flush it out of there onto the ground. Hope you're on asphalt or concrete or something. Then you have to sift through whatever was down there (I had like a pound of dry leaves from a maple tree from the previous owner. O.O) and get your parts back, only to possibly drop them again and repeat the process.

Also, masking tape is amazing. Use it to hold a screw in your socket so that when you're driving it you don't have to worry about dropping the screw again. Another item to note is the magnetic dish, so you don't lose any of the screws.

 

Stuff a towel/rag beneath the motor. It'll catch any screws you drop.

JamesC

 

ok i got the video made im in the process of posting it for you now.

EDIT: ok here is the video i would give it a little so it can process. sorry for it being dark. i had to record this 5 times to get it right lol. it was getting darker every movie i tried making.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCYu24fhLs4

 

how did it go did you find out what it was or have you tried yet?

 

Yep I did all you said and it all came down to my motor being dead. I just replaced it and my heater/ac are running great. Thanks for your help!

A new question about this is, every 1.5 seconds something clicks around my engine while I have the heater running, it seems like this shouldn't be happening. Any ideas? Thanks again

 

when you say heater what is your switch set at. is it set a heater or at the defrost. if its set to defrost then that should be the comressor kicking in.

 

it does it when sset to defrost, so thats normal? What's it doing exactly?