I have a 1986 TA, was running without the air dam for a short while until a replacement came.

My commute to work is 26 miles. By the time I arrived, it would be just a tick mark or so away from being in the red. Same when I'd return home. I'd run the heat, to help cool it down, but my heater's broken.

Then we had a nice patch of cold weather, and the car would barely hit 220, by the time I got to work.

Cold weather went away, went back to weather we had before. And basically went back to almost overheating, but not quite. Seemed to be a few tick marks less than before.

Got the air dam, installed it.

Now, I'm only a few tick marks over 100, after the entire 26 mile drive. Not even to the half way mark to 220.

My question is, is the air dam really THIS effective? Seems like the temperature is almost too low to be accurate.

Or am I likely just being paranoid?

 

The air dam is there for a reason. Cooling. Now that yours is back where it should be, you're good to go.

 

Oh, I knew it would help, it was the first thing I got for the car. I just had no idea it would make the temps plummet like this.

Thanks!

 

Your sig is a scream! "She's a mess". Great!
Good luck with your ride.

 

Its not that the air dam is efficient, it is how it affects the airflow under the car. Without the air dam, the air just flows all the way under the car and out the rear. When you have the air dam installed the air is partially redirected up through the radiator. Without the air dam, the air doesn't flow through the radiator nearly as well. This is particularly true with T/As. The Firebirds & Formulas can get away without an air dam, but not the T/As and GTAs.

 

its also quite possible that the guage is off. the factory guages are not knows for their accuracy. After it has run for a good long while, carefully grab the upper radiator hose and see how hot it is.

 

Back in the early 80's my grandfather made the mold for those.. Back when they were like a pressed fiberglass... Neat, eh?

 

my grandfather was in the tuskegee expeirments... j/k

i agree with the inaccurate gauge, i find it hard to belive that an air dam will drop temps that much. i havent had any probs without them on both of my 3rd gens.

 

Alright, I gave this a try, lol. Drove the 26~ miles to work, put my hand on the hose; then tried it again when I came back home for lunch.

Both times, I'd say it was pretty warm, but not hot exactly. Definitely no danger to burning my hand or anything.

I'm not doubting the usefulness of the air dam at all, I just doubt the huge change in temperatures. Unless a piece of plastic can really drop my engine temp by 100+ degrees....?

But I may stand totally corrected. Guess I need an aftermarket gauge to know for sure.

 

Well the plastic can't drop the temperature that much, but the air going through the radiator instead of underneath the car sure can.

 

Well, what I really mean to say is the effect of the installation of that simple piece of plastic.

I know the air dam in itself doesn't do anything but re-route air.

 

I didn't have one on mine when I bought it, and was right between 220-240

after install temp dropped to 180...that was with the 305 TBI, now with the 355 TPI I'm at 200-220

that should be fine right?

 

i will have to say the air damn helps alot, i know it made a huge diff with the factory rad, now i got the all alum racing rad i wonder if i could go w/o it

 

it was put there for a reason . it works , it re-directs air flow through the radiator . ( a good thing ) even with fans running full on hwy. cruise you could overheat . anyway it's a good thing , also the chin spoiler ducts affect airflow . the better cooling , better engine . good luck .

 

I had about the same result chaotic, went from overheating (had a half-ripped off single-piece air-dam, didn't protude under the car), to running about 40C( 100F) on cold nights and about 60C (120F?) most of the time.