I just installed that Autozone torq flo fan relay/switch, and the fan still will not come on---dang it!!

I checked the wiring ten times, and I am getting ignition power to the probe that goes through the radiator.

The probe gets way hot, and the fan still does not turn on.

I jumped the two leads that go into that probe/switch, and I heard clicking in the relay box, but the fan did not come on.

I don't get it. I'm lost. I'm ticked off, too.

 

are you sure your fan works? is the relay sending any power to the fan?

 

I haven't checked that yet...but what I did is jump the two wires (the ignition power source wire and the brown wire from the relay that also goes to the temp. probe). When I jumped the terminal wires, I heard clicking coming from the relay box, but the fan didn't come on.

I am getting power through the ignition source wire...I checked it with my voltmeter, so that's good. The ground locations for the fan motor and relay box cannot get any more paint free, so my grounds are good.

I hard wired the fan to the battery, and it turns on, so the fan motor is good.

I don't know what to do next.

GRRRRRRR

 

the clicking is the relay working, basically a small current flips a switch in the relay (the clicking sound) that allows the bigger current to flow. unplug the fan and take a volt meter to the plug, if you get nothing then there is a problem with the relay or wiring, if its getting power then you have a bad fan

 

It must be the relay then because the fan turned when I wired it to the battery.

Just my luck that the BRAND NEW relay is messed up.

Nothing has gone right this week. Sheesh

 

the relay may be perfectly fine, maybe the wiring diagram is wrong. pics would be helpful.

side ?, was there something wrong with your stock fan relay/fan switch that warranted using a separate system?

 

My stock fan setup wasn't working. The fan would either not come on or would come on way late. It was sporadic, at best.

The torq flo kit is simple, as far as wiring.

-I've got a ground from the relay box which is grounded well. The fan motor is also grounded well. I ground the paint away from both ground locations and also cleaned up the terminals at the end of the ground wires.

-I also have an orange wire that connects from the relay to the positive lead on the fan motor. That connection is good.

-I've got a red wire that is connected directly to the battery, which feeds battery power to the relay, which is good.

-I've got a brown wire that goes from the relay to one terminal on the sensor probe, and the other wire that goes to the probe is from ignition source (the fusebox under the dash).

-I have volts from the ignition wire, and I have volts from the battery, and the wiring is correct. I checked it ten times.

-I jumped the brown wire and ignition wire, and I heard the relay clicking but the fan would not turn.

-I hard wired the fan into the battery, and the darn thing turns, so I know the fan motor is good.

I'm baffled. All I can surmise is that the frickin relay is bad, even though it's brand new. Either that, or my cooling fan is possessed.

 

hmmm maybe a bad relay after all. and from the sounds of it, ur stock relay may have been going out, or the fan switch in the block. both of those are easy to replace and may be worth looking into.

 

My particular car doesn't have a fan switch in the block. My fan controls consist of a sensor in the manifold that sends temp info somewhere, then the relay kicks in (SHOULD kick in) to send power to the fan. It didn't work correctly.

I just now redid the wiring connections on my torq flo kit, and I jumped the two wires that go to the probe/switch, and the fan came on! Hooray!!

I pulled the fan out and hard wired it again this morning, and it worked, and I checked my grounds AGAIN. I redid my ground wire from the fan motor because it was the original ground connector. I put a new connector on a renewed end of the wire and bolted the crap out of it to the chassis. I ALSO put a new connector on the red wire that goes to the battery from the relay, and I also reconnected the orange wire to the positive fan wire with a big, heavy duty butt connector.

Now the real test is to see if the darn probe/switch will work properly when the coolant reaches 185 degrees. The darn probe was frickin' hot as heck yesterday, and it now should switch the power to the fan when it gets hot enough. Wish me luck.

 

Darn as if Im not running into the same problem you are ..............

 

The fan still will not come on when the engine gets hot. I'm going to wire in a toggle switch and just do it that way. Sheesh.

 

that sucks that you cant figure it out. maybe you should try a different setup. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3651/ thats the one im running and ive had no problems. and its fully adjustable.

 

I got it at Autozone. There are several kinds that work. You can find it on the Autozone website. There seems to be more options than when I bought mine. Painless is the new brand, it seems, as well as Holley.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...lue=4294954049

 

i looked on autozones website but only found the relay, not any of the wiring or the probe.

 

I see it's been awhile since your post, but I am having the same problem. Did you figure out what was causing your issue? I'm 99% sure my wiring is correct, I cut the probe off and jumped the wires, the fans came on. Does anybody know if TorqFlo had problems with their temp probes?

 

I never did get it to work. My solution was going to be an inline radiator hose "tee" with threads for a coolant temp sensor switch then running my existing wiring to that switch. I ended up yanking the 305 and tranny, for an LT1 swap.

 

I wish I was working on a v8, but I'm working on my daughters '99 Grand Am, 3400. I wired the fans direct, then drove a mile low speed no problem. Got onto a 55 mph zone for less than a block, it overheated again! Got it home, opened the bleeder valve, water was boiling in the reservoir, but nothing except vapor at the bleeder for a bit, then I noticed a blue tinted smoke coming from the bleeder, what's that? Supposedly the heads were checked ok. We just got out for our daughter, so I'm not totally sure about its history. I did upper intake gaskets, t-stat, fan wiring, water pump.

 

Damn it! Upper radiator hose collapsed about an inch from the neck! Thank you for your reply. Now, please excuse me while I go shoot myself! (Not literally, but mentally for sure!) I don't think I was wrong with the fan though. I was watching the engine temp with my scanner & the fans weren't coming ok. until too late, if they even did come on before I shut the engine down.

 

well if the top radiator hose is collapsing then maybe that is one of the problems. as the engine would get hotter and not the coolant in the radiator. and you do have the probe right next to the top radiator hose correct?

 

I bought this same piece for my S10. I couldnt get the relay to kick on. It did click when I jumped the relay. I thought it was the position of the temperature unit that goes in the radiator. I tried to use a lighter and see if it would kick on. That doesnt work but a blowtorch does!! As soon as the blow torch kicked on...so did the fan. So in short u need a temp switch from whomever u wish to get it from. If you have a place in your intake or perhaps the side of the block. Hope this helps somebody with the headache that I had trying to trace this!

 

I just bought the same system, is there any way u could post pics or send them to my email
anthony.kimball@gmail.com trying to finish my sons first car, 92Z 1le. Thank u!