Over heating problem
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Over heating problem
I have a 91 camaro with a 305. Both fans work, I put in a 160 degree thermostat and new coolant. As I am driving I noticed the the temp rises to 220 or up to 250. Any cause for this? Is my water pump going bad? Or maybe is my temp gauge going bad. I dont know if the water pump has been replaced on the car, since I have owned it for only 2 years now. Thanks for the help
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Car: 82 S10, 83 280ZX, 84 Z28
Engine: 355 smallblocks..na, 2.8 turbo
Transmission: 85:th350, 84:700R4
Axle/Gears: 85:ford9 4.85, 84:stock 3.24
Re: Over heating problem
if your engine is overheating here is what to do. First make sure the coolant system is full and no more antifreeze than 50%(ethylene glycol) you will need an infrared thermometer (about$90) or borrow one. get the engine up to operating temp. if the car has a 190 degree thermostat the engine needs to be at least 190 degrees. if you have removed the thermostat replace it. get a good quality one. now that the engine is hot turn it off and take the infrared thermometer and scan the entire cooling system from the thermostat housing to the water pump inlet. the thermostat housing and upper radiator hose should be at least 190. if not here is no coolant circulating. check the water pump and thermostat. scan the radiator core at all 4 corners and center. look for a temp drop of 15 degrees or more. if the radiator doesn't have have a consistent temperature replace it. if everything else checks ok it is likely an airflow problem. make sure the radiator is getting fresh air and the fan(s) is working
#3
Re: Over heating problem
Not to hijack, but I don't have an infrared thermometer. I feel the sides of my radiator by hand. Driver's side is hot to the touch and the passenger side is warm to the touch. It sounds like that's abnormal based on what you said. Maybe I don't have enough water pump flow. Radiator is brand new.
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Car: 82 S10, 83 280ZX, 84 Z28
Engine: 355 smallblocks..na, 2.8 turbo
Transmission: 85:th350, 84:700R4
Axle/Gears: 85:ford9 4.85, 84:stock 3.24
Re: Over heating problem
when the t-stat opens the to rad hose will be hot, then the engine needs to be off to check. with the engine off there will be no air to cool the rad so all the temps should equalize. if the coolant is full and all the air is purged and one side of the rad is cooler than the other then the rad is clogged internally.
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Car: 97 Cummins 92 CamaroZ28, 94 GSXR750
Engine: Modded 5.9 , carbed sbc358, modded
Transmission: Nv4500, 700R4 (for now)
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: Over heating problem
Well how is your timing? Also do you have the front air dam under the car?
Just some small things to check. My timing was off on mine and I didnt have the air dam and my car was reaching 220 constantly. Im switchen to a carb so I havnt ran it in awhile, also make sure ur thermostat isnt locked shut. Even if its new it can still do it, I got a fail safe to fix that problem (locks open)
Just some small things to check. My timing was off on mine and I didnt have the air dam and my car was reaching 220 constantly. Im switchen to a carb so I havnt ran it in awhile, also make sure ur thermostat isnt locked shut. Even if its new it can still do it, I got a fail safe to fix that problem (locks open)
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Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
Re: Over heating problem
if your engine is overheating here is what to do. First make sure the coolant system is full and no more antifreeze than 50%(ethylene glycol) you will need an infrared thermometer (about$90) or borrow one. get the engine up to operating temp. if the car has a 190 degree thermostat the engine needs to be at least 190 degrees. if you have removed the thermostat replace it. get a good quality one. now that the engine is hot turn it off and take the infrared thermometer and scan the entire cooling system from the thermostat housing to the water pump inlet. the thermostat housing and upper radiator hose should be at least 190. if not here is no coolant circulating. check the water pump and thermostat. scan the radiator core at all 4 corners and center. look for a temp drop of 15 degrees or more. if the radiator doesn't have have a consistent temperature replace it. if everything else checks ok it is likely an airflow problem. make sure the radiator is getting fresh air and the fan(s) is working
I installed a new water pump last weekend. also new top and bottom hoses and coolant (green) properly mixed. I am thinking of changing to a 190 or lower (won't be driving in the winter) thermostat.
I am also new to the double fan set up. When I first start the car the left fan comes on for 15-20 seconds then cuts off. The right fan does not come on unless the engine is very hot. What is the proper operating procedure for the two fan setup. I was told the left one runs all of the time and the right one comes on when the air conditioner comes on. Is this correct?
If the radiator is clogged how do you unclog it?
My front air damn is in place.
Last edited by 86NiteRider; 04-13-2010 at 09:43 AM.
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Car: '89 RS, '89 Iroc
Engine: L03, LB9
Transmission: 700r4, T5
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.08
Re: Over heating problem
I am noticing the same problem in my 88 IROC Z. The TPI engines are new to me as I have always had TBI or Carb. My 92 runs at 190 or lower on a constant basis. The 88 TPI is running at 240 cnstantley. It is driving me nuts because I am use to seeing the 190 of the TBI.
I installed a new water pump last weekend. also new top and bottom hoses and coolant (green) properly mixed. I am thinking of changing to a 190 or lower (won't be driving in the winter) thermostat.
I am also new to the double fan set up. When I first start the car the left fan comes on for 15-20 seconds then cuts off. The right fan does not come on unless the engine is very hot. What is the proper operating procedure for the two fan setup. I was told the left one runs all of the time and the right one comes on when the air conditioner comes on. Is this correct?
I installed a new water pump last weekend. also new top and bottom hoses and coolant (green) properly mixed. I am thinking of changing to a 190 or lower (won't be driving in the winter) thermostat.
I am also new to the double fan set up. When I first start the car the left fan comes on for 15-20 seconds then cuts off. The right fan does not come on unless the engine is very hot. What is the proper operating procedure for the two fan setup. I was told the left one runs all of the time and the right one comes on when the air conditioner comes on. Is this correct?
also, on my car i went down the line trying to figure out why my gauge was reading so hot, i removed all cooling components, and cleaned them, but all new gaskets on, ran radiator flush through my system, refilled my system,
and it turned out to be the gauge itself, bought one from a member here and haven't had a problem since
i also checked my system with an inferred thermometer(you can get them from Harbor freight really cheap) and it was reading normal temp's while my gauge was reading full hot
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#8
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Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
Re: Over heating problem
as far as i remember, the driver side fan comes on with temperature, and the pass. fan is computer controlled to come on at different operating conditions, i could be very wrong on that, but i think i remember someone telling me that before i told them i had single fan setup
also, on my car i went down the line trying to figure out why my gauge was reading so hot, i removed all cooling components, and cleaned them, but all new gaskets on, ran radiator flush through my system, refilled my system,
and it turned out to be the gauge itself, bought one from a member here and haven't had a problem since
i also checked my system with an inferred thermometer(you can get them from Harbor freight really cheap) and it was reading normal temp's while my gauge was reading full hot
also, on my car i went down the line trying to figure out why my gauge was reading so hot, i removed all cooling components, and cleaned them, but all new gaskets on, ran radiator flush through my system, refilled my system,
and it turned out to be the gauge itself, bought one from a member here and haven't had a problem since
i also checked my system with an inferred thermometer(you can get them from Harbor freight really cheap) and it was reading normal temp's while my gauge was reading full hot
#9
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Re: Over heating problem
Originally Posted by bcfipp
I have a 91 camaro with a 305. Both fans work, I put in a 160 degree thermostat and new coolant. As I am driving I noticed the the temp rises to 220 or up to 250. Any cause for this? Is my water pump going bad? Or maybe is my temp gauge going bad. I dont know if the water pump has been replaced on the car, since I have owned it for only 2 years now. Thanks for the help
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Car: '89 RS, '89 Iroc
Engine: L03, LB9
Transmission: 700r4, T5
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.08
Re: Over heating problem
its really easy to tell if your guage is bad, just pull it out(they plug in like sockets) and move the needle down under the 100 line, if the guage begins to move back up(mine would move back up to 120) its bad, the guage i bought would not move at all when you moved the needle around with your finger
You will know if your gauge is bad just by how the car feels from off the line. At those temps, if it feels like the engine is holding back accompanied by some spark knock, then the gauge is reading accurate and your overheating. If power feels the same as when its cold though, then it just might be a faulty gauge. However, if your temperature really is rising while your driving, then it might not be your gauge, it might be a collapsing lower radiator hose, as that will block the cooled coolant from doing its job, cooling the engine off. With the transmission in Park, and with the engine idling, hold the throttle open with your hand to build some pressure, and watch the lower radiator hose closely. If it collapses, then you need a new one (preferrably with a spring to keep that from happening again, as some new ones don't even come with one if you can believe that), either that or simply install a spring in the one you already have....
and mine did not come with a spring when i bought a new lower, i had to reuse the one that was in my old one, i cant believe companies are selling hoses with no springs now
Last edited by Caveman305; 04-13-2010 at 10:18 AM.
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Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
Re: Over heating problem
You will know if your gauge is bad just by how the car feels from off the line. At those temps, if it feels like the engine is holding back accompanied by some spark knock, then the gauge is reading accurate and your overheating. If power feels the same as when its cold though, then it just might be a faulty gauge. However, if your temperature really is rising while your driving, then it might not be your gauge, it might be a collapsing lower radiator hose, as that will block the cooled coolant from doing its job, cooling the engine off. With the transmission in Park, and with the engine idling, hold the throttle open with your hand to build some pressure, and watch the lower radiator hose closely. If it collapses, then you need a new one (preferrably with a spring to keep that from happening again, as some new ones don't even come with one if you can believe that), either that or simply install a spring in the one you already have....
ext time. At the line my car feels fine. No knock or jerks. No bubbling fluids in the over flow and no steam. I am starting to question the guage. I have to change the battery guage so I might as well change the temp guage. I think I will do the thermostat just because it is so easy and I can. I just don't want to be on the side of the road on a hot day with an overheated convertible. That would look so stupid...lol.
Last edited by 86NiteRider; 04-15-2010 at 02:11 AM.
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