Does installing a secondary transmission cooler (aftermarket) effect the trans pressure?
Would it put increased strain or resistance in the trans fluid system?
I have an after market trans cooler collecting dust, and I want to throw it at my 90.
The temps in the L.A. area can get gnarly and I want to insure against any overheating. I got to thinking about how the trans fluid runs thru the radiator, so they must be close in temp. Running around 200 engine temp seems like it would prevent the factory trans cooler for being really effective.
My understanding is that the cooler the trans fluid is maintained, the longer my 700R4 will live.
So Again I ask, will putting in a aftermarket cooler (in addition to the stock) cause any drama with pressure or temperatures?

I scanned around and found no direct answer in previous posts
Thanks for stopping by!

 

as long as the aftermarket one is large enough, you will be fine.
We've always used an aftermarket cooler by itself, not passing through the radiator.

 

Would it be better to just take out the factory trans cooler and just replace it with lets say a B&M Super Cooler? Im waiting til next paycheck to buy a new radiator and I thought to myself, "If 80 bucks can help my slush box (700R4) not become slushier faster than normal, would it be worth it?" I mean, isn't the stock trans cooler in-front of the radiator anyway? So if im gonna be down there, why not replace it at the same time. Oh, and as far as monitoring the trans temp, how would i install a trans temp gauge? Some one said they had it in there trans oil pan? Good place, or is somewhere else more beneficial?

 

stock trans cooler on our cars is inside the radiator, so you can't get rid of it unless you get a new radiator without an integrated trans cooler.

We put a temp sensor in the trans pan, doubles as a drain plug as well.

 

"Does installing a secondary transmission cooler (aftermarket) effect the trans pressure?"

No, the cooler line carry low psi, the high side is all internal.


"The temps in the L.A. area can get gnarly and I want to insure against any overheating. I got to thinking about how the trans fluid runs thru the radiator, so they must be close in temp. Running around 200 engine temp seems like it would prevent the factory trans cooler for being really effective."

Nope, its why it was done that way, even coolant temps of 200+, is cooler then the trans fluid, If anything the trans fluid heats up the coolant.



"So Again I ask, will putting in a aftermarket cooler (in addition to the stock) cause any drama with pressure or temperatures?"

No but you can go to big, a trans temp gauge is a good idea but running a trans to cool is just as bad. Often happened back in the day when guys used full sized AC rads for a trans cooler instead and ran it to cool.

One about the size of a notebook is nice, let it run through the stock one, then the new one n back to the trans.

 

you can run it from the factry Rad cooler to the aftermarket cooler, then back to the tranny.

or you can Bypass your rad, and run it to your aftermarket cooler.
(just install brass caps/plugs on your rad..(keeping anydust out of it)

the B&M Trans temp Guage go's inline and comes with all the fittings you will need.. (keep the tranny under 150deg will last longer

you can do all this in a few Hrs your self with just a few tools.

 

I'm in the process myself of bypassing the transmission cooler in the radiator. I also live in SoCal and my car will slowly heat up in stop and go traffic with the A/C on full. I also have a transmission cooler after the radiator cooler.

I have been told if I do this not to use anything less than a 30,000GVW transmission cooler. I'm also running a 4000 stall converter that heats things up more than a factory stall. The Tru-Cool Max transmission cooler I ordered is rated at 30,000GVW or 34,000BTU's.

 

Yep if you stop using the stock one, you need a big one and id also suggest a small fan for it.

 

set up in the right spot..the factry Fans will Pull air over it

 

Does the trans fluid actually increase the temp in the radiator as it passes through?
Would it be better then, to bypass the radiator entirely, with a note book sized trans cooler, thus reducing engine temps?

 

If you stop using the stock in rad one, you will need one mich bigger then a notebook.

 

have been running a 14" x 8" cooler after the Rad.. tranns temp stays in the 120 to 140 deg in my 92 with a 9" convertr. and 4.11 gears.

 

....

 

keep it cool..they last.
tranny fluid should always be cherry red, and smell like tranny fluid!

nothing More!

i also use just Ford Type F, can get it anyplace, and is a fantastic Race Fluid. for a tranny, there is stuff out there you can spend a lot more money on, but for us guys who like to use Good stuff and swap it out alot.. it's the way to Go, never smoked a tranny, but i have broke parts in them from Just Power!

 

The trick among most is to use CAT or other large machinery equipment trans fluid, its become more popular then the fancy syn fluid brans among roddest.

I got RP racing syn in my built TH350 and the only problem is its real hard to read on the stick, real hard, annoying hard, wouldn't buy it again hard.

 

Its amazingly simple. I put off installing mine for a long time because I thought it would be a hassle. Took me less than a half hour from start to finish. I disconnected the tranny line from the bottom of the radiator and connected the tranny cooler lines right there. Simple brass fittings make it an easy job. Route the lines around the radiator to wherever you have your external cooler mounted. Sit back, crack a beer and enjoy your triumph.

 

Yes good point, you can use simple brass fitting from the air line / plumbing section of the HW store, the trans and the stock coolers are just NPT threads [national pipe thread] Changing over to hose barb ends make it much easier.
Since the cooler line are low psi you can use simple hose barb ends n hose clamps.

Though you shouldn't drink before riding a motorcycle

Though for line you can use regular rubber, but id get SS braided over rubber, helps stop abrasion wear of the rubber.

 

1) It can heat it up. Or it can cool it. It depends. When I bypassed my radiator with the aftermarket cooler, I noticed that my radiator would take longer to warm up. It was a slight difference. Maybe a few minutes. Nothing major.

2) If you live in a hot climate, I suggest bypassing the radiator. When you run into trouble is when the radiator overheats. Say it's at 250°. Do you really want to be running transmission fluid through that? The radiator is what's going to have the toughest job regardless of how the transmission fluid is routed. When things are going good, the transmission fluid will be below the temperature of the radiator. Thus bypassing the radiator means a cooler running transmission. There have been times when I've gotten the radiator up to 235° (stopped in traffic forever, August, A/C on, then shut the car off to buy gas. Heat soak brings the temps up.......but the transmission fluid never got higher than 180°ish.)

Conversely if you live in a cold climate, it would be better to run the fluid through the radiator first and then to the aftermarket cooler. That way the radiator speeds the heating up of the transmission fluid during cold starts and keeps it warm when driving down the highway.


Bingo. Mount the aftermarket cooler in front of the radiator or in front of the A/C condenser if you have air conditioning. Leave a small gap between the two. A lot of people simply push pin the cooler onto the rad or condenser. That's no good. Then you have a hot cooler and a hot condenser and no way for that surface to cool.

When you're on the highway, the cooler will get lots of air flowing over it. When you're in the city, the radiator fans will pull air across the cooler/condenser/radiator.

This is why the Long Tru-Cool LPD transmission coolers are great coolers. They have a low temperature bypass built right into them. So you can still bypass the radiator and drive the car when it's freezing outside. In normal summer weather, the low temp bypass will allow the fluid to warm up quickly until cooling is needed. Then the bypass switches to regular stacked plate high performance cooling.

Now I still wouldn't use the low pressure bypass with a bypassed radiator if I were driving in -30. In that case, you want the radiator to be used.

The Tru Cool Max doesn't have the low temp bypass like the LPD series that they sell. The one you ordered is 6 x 23 x 3/4. I wouldn't worry about low temps in California. That cooler will definitely have no problems with your setup.

I run the True Cool LPD #4490. It's a 11 x 12 x 3/4 cooler with the low temp bypass. Radiator is bypassed. In Houston, TX with A/C use in summer heat and humidity, it works fantastic. I ran it last winter driving down the highway to work when it was 30° outside. No problems there either.

Mine has the description: Heavy duty driving, pick-up trucks and vans. Towing up to 5000 lbs. Class C motorhomes, travel trailers to 24 feet.......You could probably tow a mobile home with the Max cooler you're looking at.

 

"The Tru Cool Max doesn't have the low temp bypass like the LPD series that they sell. The one you ordered is 6 x 23 x 3/4. I wouldn't worry about low temps in California. That cooler will definitely have no problems with your setup."

Yes that is the one. It seemed to be an easier fit in my Trans Am versus the one you have and I looked real hard at that one. Reid, how much gap to you recommend between the A/C condensor and the trans cooler. Thanks, Allen

 

Lots of good ideas and info on here!!! I too am planning on adding a trans cooler to my ride, but i'm also adding a B&M remote oil filter mount aswell. So the tranny fluid will flow from the tranny to rad, then into remote oil filter, then flowing into the new tranny cooler before heading back to the tranny itself.

Note: The remote oil filter has been drilled and taped to fit a temp sensor for a tranny temp gauge that I've added under my dash.

 

That's what I used. They are NPT/hose barb fittings.

 

London, you say you have a filter assembly? where did you get it/ how much?
I just found this wix filter on amazon for $16 (wix 58964) http://www.amazon.com/Wix-58964-Line.../dp/B0014BCFC0

would this work inline with the cooler?

BTW my trans cooler I intend toy use is 17"x 7"x 3/4"thick is this enough to bypass the rad entirely?
thanks for so much input everyone!

 

Everyone I talked to including the guy who built my trans said the extra filter was a waste of time.

Just change the stock one as needed.

 

I can fit my fingers between the cooler and condenser. But just barely.

Should be big enough. Just make sure you get a "stacked plate" design (like the Long Tru Cool) rather than the "tube and fin" design.

 

Thanks. I just wanted to get an idea.

 

So, the lines that run from the transmission to the radiator, can we just delete those and add some fitting and put some steel braided line? Sound like a good idea. I only assume doing this since my radiator is out, when not make it better and add something unique.

 

when i rigged up my tranny cooler in 1993,i used -6
braided line the whole way-couldn't find fittings that
fit the factory brass flare fittings at the tranny,so i
removed those and threaded AN fittings directly into
the tranny.From '93 to july 2010 the cooler was located
under the car in the area under the battery tray with
the fan-equipped cooler radiator horizontal.In 2010,
i had to remove the whole system and drop and repair
my tranny after the torque converter lunched so i
could muck out the cooler and lines of all the metal
chipsWhen i put it all back together,i relocated the
cooler to the area above the battery tray with the
radiator vertical this time-the line i made up in '93
ended up fitting perfect so iwas happy about not
having to make up new ones
BTW i had an extra filter in the cooler lines and it
caught a lot of failed converter trash,so i say those
are a worthy add-on.
The cooler itself was salvaged from a 1983 LTD
cop car and the fan on the cooler from the intercooler
of a 1982 renault fuego turbo-"period correct"items
LOL.
A thermostat in the tranny pan controls the fan and
there is a temp gauge as well

 

Yeah that sounds like a good idea. Ill look and see if i can find a tranny cooler from and older cop car or something. How big is that cooler anyway?

 

Ohh and could you just use normal rubber hose or could you use steel braided stuff.

 

the '83 cop car cooler i used is a borg warner stacked
plate style of around 8x10x1.5 thick.
one vehicle to check for a salvaged cooler is '90s ford
explorers-i have used those in other vehicles,but did
not like the flare fittings ford used so i carefully drilled
the fitting area out and tapped for 1/4" pipe

 

Yes you can use rubber if itsrated for it, cooler line don't carry allot of PSI, steel braided is just rubber covered in steel. Which is nicer but fun to cut and install, gets annoying quick getting pricked by the lose braid.

 

I am putting my car back together and I have a cylinder style trans cooler with fins, its about 14 inches long, should I reuse it or not? I want to put a temp gauge in there somewhere but I was wondering if I should use the internal cooler in the rad and the tube fin type cooler, or just one or the other? I could also just put a different cooler there just wanna know whats the best plan, I live in Southeastern NC so cold isnt really an issue.

 

You guys have been talking about daily driving uses for the trans coolers but what about for racing? I plan to do a lot of hard driving at the drag strip and road courses so would that change which cooler to get and the placement of it? I would also drive the car to the events and do some cruising but here in NJ we get temps that go from 10 in the winter to 100 in the summer. I also plan to get an A/C delete box and pulley setup with underdrive pulleys.

I'm thinking a similar placement of the trans cooler would help, but I just wanted some input. Thanks.

~Matt

 

id have fans for a trans cooler if racing, just watch the temp and use as needed.

As you don't go very far and it then sits there.