Cooling Fan Help.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Farmington, Missouri
Car: 1988 Firebird "Bertha"
Engine: 5.7 Liter TPI with minor mods
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Cooling Fan Help.
Okay, I've solved my other issues of idling, now onto my fan.
It used to work. The old motor shorted out on me. I replaced it and it still didn't work. So, the wiring goes to this relay on the side of the core support, which turns out was completely destroyed. I went to autozone, and got a fan relay and that isn't what I need. The relay in question has 4 inline prongs...well, thats what the connect has. Anyone know what part I am looking for?
It used to work. The old motor shorted out on me. I replaced it and it still didn't work. So, the wiring goes to this relay on the side of the core support, which turns out was completely destroyed. I went to autozone, and got a fan relay and that isn't what I need. The relay in question has 4 inline prongs...well, thats what the connect has. Anyone know what part I am looking for?
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Cooling Fan Help.
The auto parts stores standard relays (on the shelf) all have 5 prongs - they are all standard SPDT relays.
The relay in your car is a SPST relay, thus only has 4 prongs.
The difference is, the SPST relay, when "off", doesn't connect power to anything - thus a single throw (the ST part) - the throw moves from a "nothing" position to a connection (with something) position.
The SPDT relay (DT = double throw) means that when "off", the throw is making a connection to one terminal, and when "on" the throw is making a connection to another terminal - so it's switching power from one connection to another.
They can both do the same job - with a SPDT relay you just don't have anything connected on the terminal where the throw rests in the "off" position (or the other way, depending on your use).
Easiest solution, go back to autozone and get the proper relay - it's a part you'll have to get at the counter, and not off the shelf. If they gave you that part at the counter, they gave you the wrong one, and you need to draw a diagram of the connector to take with you so they can pull all the relay part numbers for your car and get the right one (by looking at the prong configuration).
Or, you can cut the wires from your connector, crimp female spade terminals on the wires, and use any standard relay, just have to attach the wires in the right locations. One wire is ground (should be from fan switch or ECM), one has 12v+ all the time (from battery), one runs to the fan, last one gets 12v+ only when the key is on. Your relay should be marked with numbers 85, 86, 87, 87a, 30.
30 = battery power
85 = ground
86 = 12v+ when key on
87 = wire to fan
87a = not used (the 5th terminal)
The relay in your car is a SPST relay, thus only has 4 prongs.
The difference is, the SPST relay, when "off", doesn't connect power to anything - thus a single throw (the ST part) - the throw moves from a "nothing" position to a connection (with something) position.
The SPDT relay (DT = double throw) means that when "off", the throw is making a connection to one terminal, and when "on" the throw is making a connection to another terminal - so it's switching power from one connection to another.
They can both do the same job - with a SPDT relay you just don't have anything connected on the terminal where the throw rests in the "off" position (or the other way, depending on your use).
Easiest solution, go back to autozone and get the proper relay - it's a part you'll have to get at the counter, and not off the shelf. If they gave you that part at the counter, they gave you the wrong one, and you need to draw a diagram of the connector to take with you so they can pull all the relay part numbers for your car and get the right one (by looking at the prong configuration).
Or, you can cut the wires from your connector, crimp female spade terminals on the wires, and use any standard relay, just have to attach the wires in the right locations. One wire is ground (should be from fan switch or ECM), one has 12v+ all the time (from battery), one runs to the fan, last one gets 12v+ only when the key is on. Your relay should be marked with numbers 85, 86, 87, 87a, 30.
30 = battery power
85 = ground
86 = 12v+ when key on
87 = wire to fan
87a = not used (the 5th terminal)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Farmington, Missouri
Car: 1988 Firebird "Bertha"
Engine: 5.7 Liter TPI with minor mods
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Cooling Fan Help.
That's pretty good info. I take it, that I could wire up the relay that the sold me? I wouldn't mind doing that, as the old connector is in bad shape anyways.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Farmington, Missouri
Car: 1988 Firebird "Bertha"
Engine: 5.7 Liter TPI with minor mods
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Cooling Fan Help.
Well, I actually found out my problem. While doing a little searching on hawks, I found a connector for the early tpi motors. It looks exactly like mine. It was for pre 88. Well, my body is an 88 with a motor from a 92, so why I have wiring from an 87 I don't know. Autozone even has that relay, but it says the application is for with a carb. I assume that wouldn't make to much of a difference? If it would, I'm still fine with wiring in a new relay.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Cooling Fan Help.
Doesn't matter what "application" is listed - all relays are the same internally, just get the one that fits your connector.
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