hey fellas i have a strange problem and question. reverse rotation impeller in a small block water pump. does anyone have a picture of a reverse rotating impeller and a standard rotation impeller sitting side by side and labeled (correctly)

 

as i said in the general tech forum. I installed the new 355 in the car and put on a new water pump and new t-stat and filled it with 50/50 antifreeze. i fired it up and as soon as the dizzy fires the water comes out the (spews) radiator. now i thought that it had an air bubble so i took the rad. cap off and let it run out until the level dropped then when i added more it did the same thing. then I took out the t-stat same thing. then i checked the spark plugs adn no antifreeze on them. then i thought wrong wp and impeller. I buoght on fom napa that is definitely listed in the computer as rev. rotation took the back cover off and it was the same as the one that was already on it


please help!!!!!!!!!!

 

sorry, i dont have pics, but one thing you can do, if the t-stat is out, is take the upper rad hose off the radiator side. start the car up and see if it pushes water out toward the front/radiator. thats the correct flow, up to the rad. you might want to save your antifreeze first.

 

ya know i hadnt thought of that b/c with the tstat out the water should be able to move unrestricted. so your saying fill radiator with water put on cap take loose top rad. hose from driver side fire up car and point loose water hose away from face and car and see if water shoots out meaning that the flow is unrestricted and going in the proper direction.

or if it comes out of the big rad. nipple where the hose normally connects it would not be flowing in the correct direction i didn't think of that. this would also tell me if there is some kind of blockage. if anyone else has an idea i would be appreciate it.

 

the impellers shown in the waterpump pics are correct for reverse rotation waterpump

 

10-4 that means either i have a blocked system, incredible amount of air in system, or something could still be wrong with my head gasket. I will perform the test that was mentioned and post back if i get off work early enuff. i'm trying to get it ready for muffler shop! thx

 

you can leave the bottom hose completely hooked up and the cap on. just take the top hose loose at the rad. if its flowing correct, youll see a good amount of water come out of the hose quickly.
if its backwards, it will come out of the rad.
maybe your rad is plugged up? i hope it isnt your head gaskets?
at least youll no something with this easy test.
if your still over-heating, might be a good idea to pull your plugs and pressure test the coolant system for leaks. you can rent a tester at autozone in theyre tool loan section, if they have one near you. you probabley knew that though?
let us know what you found out.

 

hey thx man for all your help it looks like its about to rain i hope it doesnt so that I will have a chance to check it out. rad. is new, t stat is new, water pump is new, motor is newly rebuilt 0miles on it, NEVER been hot! (never even operating temp) i was afraid of letting it get hot b/c of the water shooting back out thru the cap. heads and gasket are brand new, and water jackets were checked for obstruction b4 any assembly began.

 

I put the new wp on fired it up and blew some water out the top hose I thought it was working then nuthn the water sat in the radiator (with the tstat out) then the car hit 220 degrees and the water started trickling out the top hose. I had the cap off so I could add water. It never came out with any force. Now the car won't start I think its b/c of fouled plugs I can't tune the carb b/c I can't keep it running either that or the timimng some how got off. At least with the advance auto new pump the water was moving and getting throwed every which wat but loose. This one just let the water sit there until the car got hot as *ell then it trickled thru the top hose and again both times was with the tstat out hhhhhhheeeeellllllppppppp

 

Are you getting water out the rad cap or is it slightly squirting out the overflow nipple? All engines will push some what out the overflow nipple into the overflow tank. But if your overflow tank is getting completely filled up and then some, then that sounds like a head gasket.

 

I wish I could upload video. The first pump had wter looking a vortex and shooting so hard into the radiAtor it came flying out when the capcame off and even with the cap off from dead start NOT HOT. And with and without ttstat. the napa pump just let the water sit there and the engine get hot to about 220 without the tstat. Then it trckled out the top hose

 

I know I'm posting a lot but I have problem now I popped the valve cover on driverside and what did I see (cloudy oil). I busted my butt trying to make sure that I did the head gaskets right I guess I didn't try hard enuff. My wife says sell it and I'm about to agree but don't want to. I did not let it get hot other than tonight. I don't know if its just one side or if this is from the mixing of the oil with the zinc breakin additve. What kind of estimate am I looking at for a shop to check/repair head gaskets, install water pump, and get car running? And what the crap could I have done wrong? Is it worth trying to save? If I try to sell in this condition I prolly couldn't get 500 and the head kit was 1100. (Frustrated)

 

need to see if the cooling system holds pressure-if it doesn't see where the leak is;problem is more likely intake gaskets than head gaskets(could re-check the torque on the head gaskets) if you suspect coolant is getting in the oil, be careful you don't get too much coolant in the pan and wipe out the bearings.Don't take to a shop-fix with help from this forum

 

ok, before I call the wrecker and have it towed to the shop for any tests I decided that what I need to do is not just throw money at the problem but to find out what the tru problem is now lets review what we know I have a:

 

just learned something that lifted my hopes a little (CONDENSATION) this is entirely possible so lets hope for the best. a shop will be performing all necessary tests they are busy so it may take a few days to get the results. I hope that everything is ok i will post back when i find out

 

Did you put the intake gaskets on backwards? Blocking the front cooling ports will cause a huge increase in pressure, possibly even coolant blowby into the lifter area then into oil.

 

do not use gasket sealer on head gaskets. thats probably your problem, if you did.
intake could be leaking?
use sealer on the head-bolts that go into the waterjacket.

a coolant pressure tester puts pressure in your coolant system so you can find where its leaking without the motor being hot/running.
are your plugs wet after about 10 seconds of running?

sucks, but sounds like it needs to come back apart for headgaskets?

youll save alot of money and gain some experience/knowledge and pride by doing it yourself.

 

All tests have come back! and the verdict is!
checked:
for water in spark plugs
for coolant pressure loss
for oil in coolant
for water in oil pan
for water in valve cover
for water in head
for water and oil blending anywhere
for water circulation
for thermostat malfunction
for overheating
All tests were positive for proper operation

apperantly there were air pockets that once given the time to get out allowed the water to circulate without spitting. the car runs fine and the water lowers and rises as it supposed to and does not overheat although the tstat was removed for test. the engine shows no signs of anything blending or over-pressurizing. so on to the exhaust. I need a y-pipe it looks like either the 16767hkr or the doug d901. Thanx fellas for all the help!



ohhhh this was tested with eh advance auto water pump I don't know the part number according to them they don't even have a record of me buying it!

 

8t2 z-chev I should have listened now on to the story:
I took my car to teh shop like I said I would. well this was before christmas. and i was told that the car was ddoing fine andd that the water pumpp that was chosen was ddoing fine. appearantly the problem was teh heater hose from the core back to the radiator was throwing water into back out of the radiator because the motor wasn't idled down where it was suppposed to be.

a pressure test was done and i am not losing any water and the oil is not mixing. NOW!!!! THAT was before christmas now the date is 2/11/13 and I am just now getting my car back!! the original work order was 1. make sure that the headgasket was not blown (pressure test was done before christmas and was determined to be fine and no water and oil mix) 2. weld in a piece of straight pipe in place of CAT and make ypipe. after 1.5 weeks I was told that he does not want to make the ypipe and if he does it will be at least 250 just for that. SO, I order a D901 from ddougs and wait about a week.

I took the ypipe to him when I got it and wait, waited , waited, waited. after a month and a half I called him and said since its been so long go ahead an get the car ready to drive which meant: 1. connect pcv to carb, 2. connect brake booster to carb 3. connect vaccume advance to carb 4. connect shift cable to tranny 5. wire elect. choke 6. dial in carb 7. dial in timing 8. connect throttle bracket and the tranny was low in fluid.

I was told that finally my car was ready and that the bill was $900 but to HELP ME OUT they out of the "kindness of their heart" decided to cut it to $632 . lets reiview the last work order that got changed b/c of the month and half wait: 4 vaccume hoses, 2 wires for the choke, 1throttle bracket, 1 nut to connect shift cable, 1 pcv, a barb nipple on the back of carb for brake booster, 6 bolts for ypipe, and a 3ft piece of pipe welded in. timing and carb tuning

I get my car and head home trying to figure out why at 75/hr did it take 6 hours labour, 80 for towing to shop, 34 tranny fluid,25 shop parts, 30 top rad. hose

well its not running right its its stumbling and sputtering and almost shutting off i get it home and shut it off and it wont start it took almost .25 tank of gas to go 18miles. I ddrove it to work and noticed it has to turn over about 7-9 times to start and affter 3 starts the car wouldnt start. then me and some co-workers found: 1. 3 spark plug wires laying on the headers 2. fuel pressure reg. clamps loose, dizzy hot wire was cut into and spliced for choke and covered with black tape, dizzy bolt still loose and watched the engine vibration actually move the ddizzy and when we adjusted the advance the car started perfectly every time and smoothed out the idle, I don't know how to dial in carb.

now the mechanic says just bring it back and the work that he charged me for will now get done. but he ddont know when he will get to it. yall ddo yourselves a favor get a haynes manual and this website and fix it yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ya thats a bummer and itll happen everytime you just leave a vehicle to get fixed at their choosing. Its to easy to start on something and not finish it and then forget it when youre not givin a deadline. Hope you get it all corrected.

 

yeah, we'll see. thx!

 

I would be friggin pissed if I picked my car up and it was running like that !!
gotta be careful where you bring it.... I try to do everything on my car myself as I've learned FROM EXPERIENCE that most shops have no clue what they're doing so they second guess shyt and make matters much worse than they were... Being a girl with a nice Iroc I have been mistaken for "stupid" by shops too many times......I only know of one mechanic that truly knows my engine,,, he is 3 towns over and doesn't mind if I stand right there with my car.....Where I live the mechanics are really bad !!!!!!!

Hope you get your car running good again !!!!

 

This is why I make videos for you guys (klowny1969) on youtube!! Mechanic shops are a business..in order for their business to thrive, they cannot spend the amount of time required to get everything right. IF you bring it to a guy that does take his time to thouroughly check everything..then you WILL pay out of your u know what! The best advice i can give u is..if you dont like doing anything major yourself..then have a shop do the major things..and once you get the car back..fix all their mistakes and bring it to where you want it to be..let them do the big jobs and then u take care of the details.

 

Hey you should get half if not all your money back what a rip off

 

thx fellas the guy fixed the car and got it ready I will let you know how it does. He made the apologies and let me know that they trully desire my business. thx for the feedback and He took a little back off the bill. Although its still too high but hey you win some and you lose some. I'm just glad its finished. now on to the front end and replacing the rear track bar. then to the interior.

 

well he got the car back to me the next day he said taht the other guy didnt tighten anything down when he got it set. of course that could mean that he didn't do it. but he also wanted to know what kind of carb i'm running. so I told him that the motor is:

Fresh 40 over 350 block 2 bolt main with arp main studs
Bored and honed with torque plate, decked
Brass freeze plugs with clevite cam bearings
Cast crank turned 10/10 with clevite main bearings
Rebuilt rods with arp wavelock bolts and clevite bearings
Speed Pro Hyperutectic flat top pistons with speed pro moly rings
Assembled with all clearances checked $600

heads and intake $1100
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060arpm

cam $88 (give or take)
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Pages/388/XE268H-10.aspx

edelbrock 1411 carb $259
and hei dizzy

and he said that he dont think that the carb and the cam are agreeing like they should and he had to do some little extra babying to it but all and all he made it run well!!!!

now this is the way it should have been running when I got it back the first time.
1st: 18miles 3.5gals-(1/4 tank of 93 octane- )of gas skipping and sputtering all the way.
now i wnet about 40 miles with less than a 1/4 tank of 93-87 blend and smooth as a baby bottom. very small hesitation at light acceleration