Quick question about evaporator core
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: NC
Car: 91 Trans Am
Quick question about evaporator core
This is a quick pic of an evap core from a parts car I was using for mock-up

Question - Do the lines going to the drier/accumulator and condenser require O-rings or do they seal with the flare?
Is there a foam seal kit for these? My replacement core came bare and even with some thick door seals, it still flops around pretty badly in the HVAC box, so no seal is possible and air will blow out through every orifice

Question - Do the lines going to the drier/accumulator and condenser require O-rings or do they seal with the flare?
Is there a foam seal kit for these? My replacement core came bare and even with some thick door seals, it still flops around pretty badly in the HVAC box, so no seal is possible and air will blow out through every orifice
Re: Quick question about evaporator core
As for the refrigerant lines.....all connections have O-rings. I just replaced my factory originals with new this week.
Haven't pulled the evap core so I can't talk about that.....
Haven't pulled the evap core so I can't talk about that.....
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 157
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From: chicago area
Car: 85 Camaro /65 Lemans
Engine: 305 vin H / 396-375 hp (Real)
Transmission: 700R4 / 4sp
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi / 4.88 posi
Re: Quick question about evaporator core
Hi All
I have an 85/305 with A/C leak somewhere - AND don't know about A/C in general
last year, I noticed when I removed all the A/C components for cleaning/painting (except evaporator) that when I removed the connection to the bottom tube that the tube on the evaporator was "loose" and could move around.
Question is, (before taking it to be dyed/diagnosed) How is the bottom tube connected to the evaporator unit, and should this tube be rigidly fixed and not move? so if it "moves" it would likely leak?
thank you for your help
tom
I have an 85/305 with A/C leak somewhere - AND don't know about A/C in general
last year, I noticed when I removed all the A/C components for cleaning/painting (except evaporator) that when I removed the connection to the bottom tube that the tube on the evaporator was "loose" and could move around.
Question is, (before taking it to be dyed/diagnosed) How is the bottom tube connected to the evaporator unit, and should this tube be rigidly fixed and not move? so if it "moves" it would likely leak?
thank you for your help
tom
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
From: chicago area
Car: 85 Camaro /65 Lemans
Engine: 305 vin H / 396-375 hp (Real)
Transmission: 700R4 / 4sp
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi / 4.88 posi
Re: Quick question about evaporator core
Hi All
I have an 85/305 with A/C leak somewhere - AND don't know about A/C in general
last year, I noticed when I removed all the A/C components for cleaning/painting (except evaporator) that when I removed the connection to the bottom tube that the tube on the evaporator was "loose" and could move around.
Question is, (before taking it to be dyed/diagnosed) How is the bottom tube connected to the evaporator unit, and should this tube be rigidly fixed and not move? so if it "moves" it would likely leak?
thank you for your help
tom
I have an 85/305 with A/C leak somewhere - AND don't know about A/C in general
last year, I noticed when I removed all the A/C components for cleaning/painting (except evaporator) that when I removed the connection to the bottom tube that the tube on the evaporator was "loose" and could move around.
Question is, (before taking it to be dyed/diagnosed) How is the bottom tube connected to the evaporator unit, and should this tube be rigidly fixed and not move? so if it "moves" it would likely leak?
thank you for your help
tom
Not sure why I cannot get a reply on this - maybe tooo dumb a question?
In looking at replacement evaporators the bottom pipe is pictured as welded to the core unit - just trying to confirm that the original is also AND now that I think of it, can the evaporator move side to side when in the box and maybe that movement is what I saw when they were connecting the pipe?
thanks in advance for your help
tom
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: North East GA
Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Quick question about evaporator core
Its hard fixed to it, but its aluminum so you can bend it some, all connections have orings, I've never seen foam kits but you can buy really thick weather stripping at the hardware store, this is what I used.
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
From: chicago area
Car: 85 Camaro /65 Lemans
Engine: 305 vin H / 396-375 hp (Real)
Transmission: 700R4 / 4sp
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi / 4.88 posi
Re: Quick question about evaporator core
Thanks for the reply
I guess I'll need to remove the cover and see if the weld is broken prior to taking it for dye testing and replace it 1st if it is broken, otherwise the shop will charge alot for the new part and labor in addition to finding any other leak in the system. Was kind of wondering if the weld attaching the bottom pipe is prone to breaking so if it was moving from side to side it was likely broken.
tom
I guess I'll need to remove the cover and see if the weld is broken prior to taking it for dye testing and replace it 1st if it is broken, otherwise the shop will charge alot for the new part and labor in addition to finding any other leak in the system. Was kind of wondering if the weld attaching the bottom pipe is prone to breaking so if it was moving from side to side it was likely broken.
tom
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 20
From: South Jersey
Car: '16 Camaro SS, '88 IROC
Engine: 6.2 Gen V
Transmission: 6 spd TR6060
Re: Quick question about evaporator core
Thanks for the reply
I guess I'll need to remove the cover and see if the weld is broken prior to taking it for dye testing and replace it 1st if it is broken, otherwise the shop will charge alot for the new part and labor in addition to finding any other leak in the system. Was kind of wondering if the weld attaching the bottom pipe is prone to breaking so if it was moving from side to side it was likely broken.
tom
I guess I'll need to remove the cover and see if the weld is broken prior to taking it for dye testing and replace it 1st if it is broken, otherwise the shop will charge alot for the new part and labor in addition to finding any other leak in the system. Was kind of wondering if the weld attaching the bottom pipe is prone to breaking so if it was moving from side to side it was likely broken.
tom
The curved line is the bottom line
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