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Broken bolt - thermostat

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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 07:20 PM
  #1  
stickySC's Avatar
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From: Spartanburg SC
Car: 03 Gmc Sierra ,85 camaro, astro
Engine: 305,
Transmission: a4
Broken bolt - thermostat

So, I did something dumb, and didn't take my time. Broke the bolt on the passanger side of the thermostat now its going to cost me some extra work. I already hit the hardware store an got another 3/8-16 and 2 jam nuts. well the top threads let go, I have a welder (Hfreight) but the 220 plug is in the back yard and the car is in the front.

so any suggestions. im pretty much on my own as far as pushing it to the backyard.

thought of drilling and tapping to the next size. or see if I can reach the front yard through the kitchen window.

helicoil maybe, don't know if the tapping to next size is a good idea, would have to drill out the housing 2. so probably not..

time 4 a mcdouble and a min to thinkabout it before I do any thing else dumb.. like pulling the car up to the kitchen window and burning down the house an car in one shot.. 85 sports coupe.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #2  
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From: Texas
Car: 91 Firebird/88 Firebird/91 Formula
Engine: V6 3.1/V8 5.0/V8 5.0
Transmission: 4L60/700R4/4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.23/2.73/2.73
Re: Broken bolt - thermostat

It's not easy either way. Broke the same one on my Formula. Ended up drilling, tapping, and helicoil. It's been great since. Good luck.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 08:10 PM
  #3  
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Re: Broken bolt - thermostat

Happens all the time. No big deal.

drilling and tapping to the next size
DO NOT do that.

It's just really way too eeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzy to fix. So eeeeezy in fact, even I can manage it. Which if someone as dom as I can handle it, surely someone as smart as you, will make short work of it.

Grind/file/sand the end of the broke-off stud as FLAT as you can get it. Mark the EXACT center with a center punch. Drill it out, starting with a small size (5/64 or so would be a good starting point... small enough to see to center well, large enough not to be too fragile) and step up in drill size a few time, like, 5/64, 1,8, 1/4, 5/16, ... odds re at about that point, you'll be able to remove the remains of the old stud with a pick or a dental tool or the like.

Then, since the aluminum will have been DESTROYED by the dissimilar metal corrosion which will have eroded a significant amount of the metal that the threads used to be made of, Heli-Coil it. You can get the entire kit (final drill, tap, inserts, insert tool) at basically any parts store. Size is 3/8"-16.

Piece o cake. Been done time and again with PERFECT success.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 11:10 PM
  #4  
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From: Central Florida
Car: 89 Camaro RS running MS2X
Engine: .48/.60AR T3/T4 2.8L V6
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: Next to break...
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
Happens all the time. No big deal.

DO NOT do that.

It's just really way too eeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzy to fix. So eeeeezy in fact, even I can manage it. Which if someone as dom as I can handle it, surely someone as smart as you, will make short work of it.

Grind/file/sand the end of the broke-off stud as FLAT as you can get it. Mark the EXACT center with a center punch. Drill it out, starting with a small size (5/64 or so would be a good starting point... small enough to see to center well, large enough not to be too fragile) and step up in drill size a few time, like, 5/64, 1,8, 1/4, 5/16, ... odds re at about that point, you'll be able to remove the remains of the old stud with a pick or a dental tool or the like.

Then, since the aluminum will have been DESTROYED by the dissimilar metal corrosion which will have eroded a significant amount of the metal that the threads used to be made of, Heli-Coil it. You can get the entire kit (final drill, tap, inserts, insert tool) at basically any parts store. Size is 3/8"-16.

Piece o cake. Been done time and again with PERFECT success.
Not saying yours is the wrong way, or mine is the right way. I drilled and tapped mine in 08 when I bought the car, changed out 2 tstats after, and haven't had a single problem.

Please clarify why not to do it instead of just saying not to; more than one way to skin a cat and as far as im concerned, both methods work equally well, and both will result in PERFECT success as long as you are 10% smarter then the tool you are using.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 03:52 PM
  #5  
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Car: 89 forrmula
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Re: Broken bolt - thermostat

Sofakingdom is spot on though I'd like to add two things to his prodedure-have a small shop vac handy to suck the metal shavings you'd be drilling in case you go all the way through, so as not to put metal filings into the coolant passage.

Next, after you gradually drill out about 1/2 of the broken bolt diameter, use a cold rolled 4-sided punch to "punch" a new squared hole into the bolt diameter. Now use that punch as an extractor and you should be able to turn the remainder of the bolt out by twisting the punch tool. The heat generated from the constant drilling will serve to loosen up the seized material. Try NOT to drill all the way down through the bolt tho-go about 1/2 way down. Patience is the key-and drilling straight. Then, tap the threads and you should be fine.
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