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New radiator, new thermostat, manual fan switch (only one fan) it overheats after driving anywhere from 10-20 mins even if it's cool outside. Idling and driving, even on the highway it will overheat. What can I try to do? Also the upper rad hose is swollen.
Another question, did 91 RS' come stock with a single or dual fan setup? Mine has a single with a shroud. Would switching to a dual fan setup fix my problem?
Sounds like your upper rad hose is old and soft and you need a new one. Nothing out of the ordinary there.
Define "overheating". You probably have no clue how many people get on here and post THE EXACT SAME THING you did, claiming "overheating" without telling A SINGLE THING about whatever it is the car is ACTUALLY DOING that makes them think that. Things like, what the gauge says, what the temp ACTUALLY IS as measured with an ACTUAL MEASURING INSTRUMENT, and so forth. You can do better than .... those ... people. Which in turn will ACTUALLY enable us to HELP YOU.
First time I ever took it on a somewhat long drive on the highway and about 5 miles in the gauge was a little past 220. On the way back it was pegged in the red the whole time. I have a new CTS because the gauge didn't work when I bought the car. It wasn't steaming tho but I was still scared. No I didn't verify it with a temp gun I know I need to. Now I'm scared to drive it long at all, it'll get past 220 very quickly on the highway when it's cool out and it never comes down.
What makes you think it's "overheating"? Just the trim package in the dash?
Lower hose is probably not "collapsing". VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY rare, if not downright impossible, in a properly pressurized cooling system. A problem in a Model T; not so much with any modern car.
Sounds like you just need to replace the upper hose. Sounds like it's rotten and soggy and soft. "Swollen" is pretty much how they fail; they're that, right before they burst.
Replace the temp gauge sending unit while you've got the coolant drained, see if that makes the gauge read something less scary.
What makes you think it's "overheating"? Just the trim package in the dash?
Lower hose is probably not "collapsing". VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY rare, if not downright impossible, in a properly pressurized cooling system. A problem in a Model T; not so much with any modern car.
Sounds like you just need to replace the upper hose. Sounds like it's rotten and soggy and soft. "Swollen" is pretty much how they fail; they're that, right before they burst.
Replace the temp gauge sending unit while you've got the coolant drained, see if that makes the gauge read something less scary.
Sorry I meant the temp sending unit. The one on the 1-4 bank. As I'm writing this right now I'm bleeding the system, it has a ton of air bubbles in it. Hopefully that's all it is.
Just drove it in stop and go driving for about 10-15 mins, it's raining and it's 72F. According to the gauge it was at 220 the whole time until I got a couple blocks from home, it got to about 3/4. I had it idling for about 30 mins when I was bleeding it.
Did you replace the upper hose? Can you smell it overheating? Can you attach a picture of the lower deflectors and where the piece above is missing? What about the fan shroud, is it intact and fitted to radiator correctly? Maybe a bag or something flew up and covered the radiator due to the missing piece??
I would hit up some junkyards and gather those missing pieces! They are crucial to ensuring proper cooling on these cars. Also, are you loosing any coolant where you have the heater bypassed?
One more thing. Give that poor thing some degreasing under the hood. Lol
I would hit up some junkyards and gather those missing pieces! They are crucial to ensuring proper cooling on these cars. Also, are you loosing any coolant where you have the heater bypassed?
One more thing. Give that poor thing some degreasing under the hood. Lol
Keep us updated
I will, thank you. Not loosing any coolant, the heater is actually hooked up. The po had it bypassed in a very wierd way lol. I've been needing to clean it for a long time! Just haven't gotten to it
You seem to be missing your lower air dam (#18 in attached pic -008) and pretty much all the baffles to assure air is directed through the radiator.
Could you post a pic of yours? Is mine okay with the little chunk missing or do I need one new one? Also do I need the cover the connects the nose? Forgot what it was called.
Despite not owning a camaro, the 'bird radiator baffle is similar... when you look to see your radiator from top down, you should see plastic (similar to attached pic.. #31 in breakdown). The chipped part you show/ask about, is #34
Despite not owning a camaro, the 'bird radiator baffle is similar... when you look to see your radiator from top down, you should see plastic (similar to attached pic.. #31 in breakdown). The chipped part you show/ask about, is #34
I think you hopefully just solved my problem for me lol I've never seen that before. Definitely going to get it. Is it hard to put on?
How is the fan hooked up to the car.
If you get the wires crossed the fan will spin in reverse.
The fan mounted on the inside is a puller fan. It pulls air through the radiator from the front.
Yours looks like its a easy tell because your missing your condenser.
Just slap some paper on the front of the radiator when the fan is running and see if it sticks.
Any way, its happens so take a look.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; May 12, 2016 at 05:59 AM.
How is the fan hooked up to the car.
If you get the wires crossed the fan will spin in reverse.
The fan mounted on the inside is a puller fan. It pulls air through the radiator from the front.
Yours looks like its a easy tell because your missing your condenser.
Just slap some paper on the front of the radiator when the fan is running and see if it sticks.
Price.. don't know, I only looked for examples to show you. It's up to to part hunt for yourself.
Compared to a pull a part yard, it's extremely high. If you have a junkyard nearby, that would be the better route as you'd take the parts off and see where they were, to put them back in place on your car.
Most all those parts bolt on with a 10mm socket or wrench.
Made my own air dam out of a piece of gutter lol it's not long enough but I can tell it already made a difference. I need to get a longer piece. This one is only sticking down about 2 inches. I also installed a new upper rad hose and that made a difference too. Thanks everyone.
Took off my a/c condenser today thinking that it was maybe my problem. When I had the radiator out I realized how small it was. Do I need to upgrade to a 3 row?? Previous owner said he installed it but I looked it up and it's some cheap piece of junk.
I'd start with all the correct duct work, maybe have it boiled locally. These radiators are bigger than 4th gens and when set up correctly work great in my experience.
Now your radiator does look rather thin.
Have you replaced your water pump? It's a cheap part, could be a part of your problem.
I'd start with all the correct duct work, maybe have it boiled locally. These radiators are bigger than 4th gens and when set up correctly work great in my experience.
Now your radiator does look rather thin.
Have you replaced your water pump? It's a cheap part, could be a part of your problem.
Water pump seems to be doing great, I don't think that's it
driving down the highway the car should be pretty cool as its getting a ton of air. Thats how mine is now with my champion 3 core rad.
Its really cool when im driving at a decent speed, heats up when im going slower, ive got my dual fans on a switch under the dash and i flick them on when it get to 200