Anyone have and factory thermostat Bolts I can buy? for a 1991 TRANS AM 305 TPI.. PM ME



\THANKS RAY

 

Why would you want factory ones, instead of going back with stainless so you don't ever have to enjoy that fight again?

 

I figured the factory ones, would work better I can't find the correct size I need.. the dealer gave me the size and I can't find em anywhere.. I've had problems with leaks by the bolts. the previous owner used different bolts and I figured if I found factory bolts it would cure the problem.. I think he used the incorrect length ..

 

What's the thread size you've been told?

On most SBCs they are 3/8"-16 x about 1¼" long ... you can pick up stainless ones at Lowe's. (best collection of SS hdwe among the bog-box stores IMO)

What's "the problem"?

 

the dealer gave me the dimensions from a vin# look up of 3/8-16x1-1/8

 

So buy a 1-1/4 length and trim it on the grinder. Chamfer the end of the threads. If you are really crafty you can stick the bolt in the end of your drill chuck and run in on the belt sander or grinding wheel and do a real nice job of it. Or if you happen to have a lathe it makes things like this turn out really pretty. Very useful tool to have around. Just the other day I turned down an idle air control valve socket on mine out of a cheap 6 point impact socket.....

Or I'm sure some enterprising individual has stainless socket head versions on eBay.

GD

 

oh sometimes it takes someone with creativity to help out lol thanks for the input, duly noted bud.. I will get my butt moving on doing exactly tha. ;-)

 

Or, just put acoupla washers under the head.

I hate work.

 

As a professional mechanic I kinda cringe when I see such things. Although that would work, I hold myself to a higher standard so would only consider that as a temporary fix. It takes only moments to shorten a bolt with a vise, zip wheel and chamfer the end on the grinding wheel. I would also take the time to wire wheel the rust off any fasteners, and apply a good coat of anti-seize or thread sealant as applicable - the next guy that has to take it apart may very probably be yourself.

GD

 

I may have a factory set sitting around someplace if you still need them.

 

1/8" = just about exactly one lock washer and one flat... which they kinda need anyway

Not sure how this is so heinous, "low standards", etc.

Definitely do use anti-seize though.

OP, I would also strongly recommend considering a new water outlet... the OE ones are almost always all corroded up and distorted to where it's impossible to get them to seal. They're pretty cheeeeep at the parts store. And, whereas the OE ones tended to be either sheet metal or chinesium, new ones are usually cast iron. Avoid "krome" at all costs however.

 

Well yeah I assume it already was being measured with a flat washer and a lock washer. Those are always recommended.

I'm just against stacking 3+ flat washers when you can relatively easily shorten the bolt and make it right. Whatever works I guess, but you certainly don't see such things from the factory - even on the worst foreign $hitbox.

GD

 

Get some 3/8 - 16 threaded rod and cut to length and then just use nuts and lock washers. Saves the threads in the intake manifold when changing out thermostats, prevents corrosion issues between the bolt threads and the threads in the intake, and provides better/more uniform clamping force on the thermostat housing.

 

Not a bad idea, IF AND ONLY IF you can find STAINLESS STEEL.

Or even, take a STAINLESS bolt with long enough threads, and cut the head etc. off.

The operative concept is, STAINLESS.

 

Curious: do the factory bolts have a regular head, or are they flange bolts? I don't have the original bolts...

 

Factory have a flange. The rear most is a stud and the front is a bolt for tpi.
https://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/sh...=0&modelYear=0

 

+1 for the studs
+100 for stainless

 

Any bolt going in aluminum need anti-seize, esp stainless or you will have bigger issues down the road.