testing out a few fitting to get the placement I want.

thinking this unit is to tall..Moroso $38..but also have a 120deg fitting on the way..for a 2nd try
like this one..but its done only in black $40

this one I do like..metzer unit..and has a nice polished finish.. it's sold in 2 parts to a total of $110

the 20am fittings red and blue run about $38ea.. about half what summit sells them for..I could only get the 20am 120 deg from summit on sale for $75. IT pays to shop


think ill go with the metzer housing..
also added the blow out plates

 

radiator is all set up for the 20AN fittings

 

The inner diameter is kinda small, hope you dont have a flow issue

 

No running a electric water pump. moving a lot of water all the time.at all eng speeds.. into a Hi Flow Radiator. every thing about this set up is Aluminum from the Block Heads and Radiator. with 2 fans set to come on at 165deg..if anything I might need a hotter thermostat. when testing. the setup.

 

I think what BIZ is saying is; that since you're going -20, which is a little small for the application, you may have issues trying to get the coolant out of the radiator. For low pressure side fluid dynamics you should use a hose larger than the pressure side. That is why the heater core fittings are different sizes. You may wind up sucking the inlet side of the house shut, since it is only a -20, that's only inch and a quarter.

 

I have ran a -20 for the upper radiator hose, a standard lower radiator hose and a belt driven water pump for about 6 years. I haven't noticed any real problems. The only thing I've noticed was that once everything is up to temp and I am sitting at idle speeds (ie lower water pump output) the coolant temp sensor begins to register higher than it did with a standard upper radiator hose. It doesn't start skyrocketing and id does level off at 210° or so whereas the standard hose would sit at 200°. Once I start moving again the temps lower pretty quick. I think with the electric water pump you'll be fine and won't notice what I have noticed.

Also, I believe that I got thermostat housing from eBay for much less than the prices you've listed. It hasn't leaked at all and still looks great but it has a machined finish and would take a considerable amount of work to polish.

 

I don't don't think there is going to be any Problems.. the type of water pump and what it flows.. then the temp of the T stat..and the size of Radiator..all play a part in the cooling..you have to remember a T stat only opens so wide..and can flow only so much..no mater the size of hose.its the choke point and its the temp at witch it opens..and the flow/speed of the pump to move it..in the time its open.. Iv never had a car with over heating problems..as like to keep them under 200deg..in the summer time.. and that's on the high side..

as for price..I try to stay with the name brand parts..some times it cost money when ya try to save money so.without looking back..just buy it and try it...its also about looks.. its got to look good..

this housing was the cheap cost.at $39.99
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-63476
this was the 2nd unit at $79.99
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL30373
this was the metzer at over $80 then you had to buy the 2nd part to it..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-WN0020U
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-WN0041U
the last hose end I tried out was a 120 deg..on sale it was only $75. but it was still to tall...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-312020ERL

in the end I went with the metzer unit..with a 45deg 20an fitting.. and a 90 deg 20AN on the rad.. and sent the the rest back to summit..

 

Here you go - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli%27s_principle

 

Good lord. I could buy a 5.3L LS engine for what those fittings cost. And make 600rwhp with regular **** hose for 5 years on it.

Why all the unnecessary bling?

just for show I guess?

Reduced reliability and extra work for show was never on the list of things to do, but eh?

 

 

yeah but whats wrong with regular hose... not pretty enough? Don't tell me it wouldn't work.

And nitrous is a secondary system, after boost. Nitrous without boost is like jerking off instead of sex. That $$ could go towards an FI setup.

priorities, men

 

 

Best Quote ever..lol

on a side note..why be like every other guy..(boosted LS from a junk yard)..that's no fun...
and like the age old Question..whats better then 600HP??? 1000HP!
but no.. I want the car to look good... and in the last few stages of doing the car I send back parts I don't like the test fit of/looks

 

Your response tells me you don't understand why that lower hose may still get sucked closed.

I hope you don't have problems, but we are just trying to explain that it may be possible. The OEMs still had problems with hoses getting sucked closed and a larger lower hose than the upper. Their solution was to put a spring in it. You may have to do the same. It's all about pressure drop, and your high flow electric water pump would be why since it should be flowing a constant rate of coolant even at idle.

 

 

 

I see that you have never used AN lines for cooling...unlike reg rubber hose the lines are made Not to collapse...its just ONE part of the Design Feature of that type of Hose.. but will keep an eye on it....

 

Having worked in the aircraft industry for over 33 years this is not all together true - it depends on the hose -
where are you buying your hose from? Does it have a MIL spec number? If so, what is the number?

 

Exactly.

 

I to worked in the aircraft industry.. (making jet eng parts) and parts for the Bushmaster cannon as well.. have made parts for every maker of Jet engs.. if it flys.it has parts on it I have Made... there are a few diff types of hose used.. in aircraft.. Take my word for it...when I say..it will be OK.. Ya know they even make a spring like part to install in the hose to keep this collapse from taking place.if need be....just so ya know..

this thing with lots of chrome on a eng is never to start it up with antifreeze..not until its run for a few days and ALL leakes if any are taken care of.. chrome and antifreeze do not mix..I use distilled water with wetter water added..then antifreeze after making sure no drips/leaks..if a track will let you..that is.some just don't.
as for cooling just think if ya have to go to a 24AN..wow
ball park
MIL-DTL-27516
OR
MIL-PRF-53063