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how long and hard is it to wire up a DFI 7 in a SD z28

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Old May 21, 2005 | 05:07 PM
  #1  
BOTTLEDZ28's Avatar
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
how long and hard is it to wire up a DFI 7 in a SD z28

I am looking into a DFI 7 kit with the WB O2 for my 91z28 and was wondering how long it would take to wire it up and how hard it would be to wire it also? I am just worried that I will have to rewire a lot of my car. I already have an Auto Meter gauge cluster wired into the stock harness, I have installed an electric water pump and changed some of the wire routing for the sensors on the engine. Am I gonna be pulling my hair out? I have no problem wiring things but I just dont want any surprises. What part of the stock harness actualy gets replaced with the new DFI setup? WIll any of the gauges have t be rewired? what about the harness behind the dash and under the dash? Do I have to mess with the fuse block at all? My car has the stock SD V8 setup from the factory. I plan on getting the 77022 DFI kit with WB o2.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 05:48 PM
  #2  
Lo-tec's Avatar
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Since you have a stick, it should be easy. I haven't rewired a '91, but I've done two 84's. On those the engine harness is separate from the body harness. All the crap that runs to the factory ECM comes out in one shot, and is replaced with the new crap from accel. The alternator, temp gauge, fan switch, etc etc is in a separate harness, or the leads pull out of the ecm harness with no effort. Downside to what you are doing is there is no egr control (if it's still there), and no controll over the vapor canister (but you can rig up a carbed one easily). I tapped the fuel pump wire back into the harness above the passenger side kick panel (C207?), put the ecm in the stock location, and ran all the wires into the engine compartment the same as stock. Granted, this was with a gen 6 setup, but should be similar as far as wire length goes. Worst case is to drill a hole in the firewall under the heater case instead of running then out the kick panel and behind the fender liner ala the stock way. Sorry for the book, but it can be done quite easily...just be sure and have the factory service manual for any wiring questions.

Last edited by Lo-tec; May 21, 2005 at 05:51 PM.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 05:57 PM
  #3  
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From: Lapeer, MI
Car: 86 IROC, 89 GTA
Engine: 350 blocks, both of em
Transmission: 700r4s
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt and 9 bolt, 3.73, 3.23
Im in the middle of a Fast ecm swap. The Harness is plug and play but there is wiring to do with relays to the fuel and fan, Of course i am not good at wiring so its not going so smooth.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 07:24 PM
  #4  
Lo-tec's Avatar
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
All you need is the factory manual. Use the wiring diagrams within, and you can hookup the fan and fuel pump controls into your factory harness (under the pass side kick panel).
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 01:01 AM
  #5  
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From: Milwaukee, Wis.
Help needed on Aftermart Ignition mods. 1991 L98 350

Hello,
I am repairing my 91 GTA L98 350. I want to replace the stock ECM with a FAST XFI, Acell DFI or AEM ECU. FAST XFI system seems to be the easiest. Anyway, I intend to create a coil per cylinder, distributorless crank triggered ignition system.
I need to eliminate the stock distributor as my new custom manifolds and plenum will not allow it.
Correct me if I am wrong PLEASE.
I believe the HEI distributor preforms three functions other than spark distribition:
1. Provides the Tachometer signal ???
2. Drives the oil pump ???
3. Hole in distributor shaft lubricates the rear of the camshaft ???

Problem: If I eliminate the stock HEI Distributor;
1. How do I generate a signal to run the Tachometer ?
2. How do I lubricate the engine properly at any RPM ?
3. Not sure how necessary this is since no distributor gear to lubricate.

Please reply directly to
Firebirdjim@hotmail.com

Need some helpful advice.

Firebirdjim@hotmail.com
Firebirdjim@hotmail.com
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 09:34 AM
  #6  
shawnc16's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 491
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From: Lapeer, MI
Car: 86 IROC, 89 GTA
Engine: 350 blocks, both of em
Transmission: 700r4s
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt and 9 bolt, 3.73, 3.23
the distributor spins the oil pump shaft which drives the oil pump, but you could run a dry sump system and fix that problem.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 03:59 PM
  #7  
Firebirdjim's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 27
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From: Milwaukee, Wis.
Lubrication L98

Hello,
Dry sump ????
Explain in detail please.


I was thinking of an electric oil pump and aux cooler. Trouble is I know nothing about such a system.

While I appreciate your suggestion it is incomplete. I need the what, when, here and how parts answered.

thanks
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 12:17 AM
  #8  
shawnc16's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Lapeer, MI
Car: 86 IROC, 89 GTA
Engine: 350 blocks, both of em
Transmission: 700r4s
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt and 9 bolt, 3.73, 3.23
Im not actually sure how they work or what not but, the new vettes are running a dry sump. Someone else would have to explain the who whats and whys.....I have no experience with them
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