Hi everyone,

I have the classic code 34 problem, I have had this problem for some time now about 3 - 5 years (I had my MAF sensor replaced within the last few years) It does not occur that often, but when the engine light goes up, the car either stalls or slows down a lot (to a rough idle for a few seconds). If the car stalls, I turn it back on and I don't see the problem again for at least a few weeks or sometimes months. However I would like to stop this inconsistency, because i almost recently caused an accident because of this engine light.

My car is a 88 Trans AM, 5L TPI. If i reset the ecm through the battery to clear the code, it stays away for about a few days and then comes back. MY gas mileage is pretty good, about 17 - 18.5 mpg city and highway driving combined together with some fun.

So is it my ecm, chip or???. I have heard from others that it may be the two relays. What are these relays and where are they exactly located, do they cost a lot, hard to reach?

Thanks guys for your help.

Pat

 

Burn-off relay.

 

Im having the same exact problem with my 86 firebird. Whats the burn off relay for? Does the burn off relay have to be replaced? thanks

 

if your (xbcrguy182x) getting the same problems like me and the code 34 is up. Then you have a problem with either the MAF sensor, ECM, bad connection somewhere, or the most likely the case bad relays. If the relay(s) are done, then they have to be replaced, but the good news is that their like 20 bucks each. However you should first diagnose your problem, and try to limit the problem as narrow as possible to avoid purchasing parts you don't need.

 

Yeah good points. I have checked all the connections and they seem fine. The cheapest/easiest thing now is to replace the relay. Are relays plug ins like fuses?

 

This is how the relays look, their on the driver side. The relays basically act like switchs.

 

Ok i know this is an old tread but i have the same exact thing going on with my car and im geting the 34 code. Need to know were to start looking for the problem. kind of new to working on cars so dont be useing all that jargen.

Thanks alot

 

try the realys first. Easy to do.

Swap the MAF burn off for the MAF.

Discnnect batteyr for 10 min.

If it is the relay a new code will come up...code 36 for the burn off.

Buy a new relay, replace. Some one correct me if I messed that up.

I am having this same problem, I hope I have it beat

 

Ok so whats a Mass Air Flow burn off? :P

sorry could not find it in my repair book an at this point in working on cars i need it for alot of things

 

Ok so know that i figured out what a mass air flow burn off was. Changed it our and now geting the same code and i checked connections and they seamed to be groovy too.

What next?

 

From the GM shop manual.
1, Check for loose or damaged air duct between MAF & throttle body.
2, If idle is rough, or unstable, this can cause a code 34. Disconnect the MAF sensor, if rough idle still exists, see section B. If it improves, replace the MAF.
3, Clear codes.
4, Start & run engine above 2300 rpm for 1 minute or until code 34 sets.

Does it?

No = intermittent - see diagnostic aids.

Yes = ignition off, disconnect MAF, repeat test, code 33 should set, does it?

No = circuit 998 (dark green wire) shorted to ground or faulty ECM

Yes = Faulty MAF sensor.

Check MAF sensor is getting 12v though (bad relay) on the red wire should read 12v with ign on.

 

The above picture is incorrect if you follow the schematic for the MAF sensor. The blue wire that is coming from the MAF sensor (D) is labeled as going to the MAF burn-off relay.

In the picture I see a blue wire on the relay that is labeled Fuel Pump Relay. This should be the MAF Burn-off Relay if the schematic is correct.