Just looked at the XFI system I bought, gonna install it this week. It doesn't integrate with the stock wiring harness at the bulk head. So for the people who have already wired an XFI system in their car, do you retain any of the old harness. How does power get to the starter, what about dash components, like radio/cd player, A/C controls, heater controls, gauges. Do you just rewire these. Looking for info.

 

What are the PN#s of the harness's you purchased?

 

The harness P/N are:

30-1100 GM TPI Main Harness
30-1200 SBC Injector Harness
30-1302 GM HEI Ignition Harness
30-1406 Fan and Fuel Pump Kit

 

As stated, This is a stand alone system. There are two ways you could do this installation.

1-- Use PN 301105 universal XIF harness, and wire it into your existing ecm harness. This method is a lot of work, But keeps every thing under the hood almost stock. You would also have to add six additional wires to your OEM injector harness and add and conceal the WBO2 harness. This is the best install for a SD car if one is wanting every thing to look stock.

2-- First disconnect and remove or tie back the OEM inj harness's.Leave all the starting, charging, AC,and gauge wiring alone. Then install the main harness PN 30-1100 through the firewall and plug in the inj and ign harness's. If you are using the large HEI cap distributor you must use a different plug and repin. I believe there is a adapter harness for this, But it looks better if you install the plug and terminals needed. Fuel pump and fan are pretty strait forward. SES wire is a grounding circuit and can be connected to the original SES wire from the ECM. XFI has a input for AC, Read 20.0 in the help index. You will have to bypass VATS. If you need help here let me know.

I have one question. What dealer did you buy this from? They should be there for all your install questions. Thats what a FAST dealer is there for.

 

I bought it from Arizona Speed and Marine. I haven't contacted them about any install info as of yet cause I find that the board members here can and usually offer more in advice and information that is needed.

 

Sorry, I didn't want that to look so negative, But I have been getting a lot of calls on install help for systems I didn't sell due to the customer support from the selling dealer was almost nill. I never turn them down, But its a little frustrating.

I agree with you on the information in the Third Gen forums. There is a lot of great people here with a lot of knowledge that are willing to share and help us with our questions and problems.

 

No negativity taken in your statement, I agree that giving out constant help for a product you didn't sell or distribute is frustrating, but on a positive for you and others, is that people will come to you to seek out your knowledge and understanding, like a guru/teacher..... and there seems to many on this board who have expertise in many different fields of auto mechanics and are willing to share their knowledge with others, which makes this board a great place to come and learn. Sounds kinda lame, but it's true. I view this board as not just a place to come and post/chat with members, but as a learning tool and it's been invaluble for me.

 

Ive been so busy at work with a install that I haven't had time to drop in and see whats been going on with your project.

Due to I don't see you posting, You must be busy on your install. Well hows the install going?

 

Hey, thanks for the interest. I have the engine and transmission/driveshaft in the car. I put the headers in too. I'm currently doing the wiring. I figured I would wire the car like you said in option #2. I put the stock TBI harness back in and will use it for starting, charging, AC, and gauge wiring. I put the XFI harness in already, I will store the ECU where the old one used to be and the wiring harness exits through the firewall by the wiper motor. Looks good. I have yet to hook up the XFI wiring to the engine and have to wire up the fan/fuel harness too. I'm currently a little stumped though. It's been a couple years since I had the TBI harness in the car (did a TPI swap), so I don't quite know which wires go to the junction block(down on the side of the rad) and which wires go to the starter. I made a request for some pictures, but no one has responded. It will start to get more involved now as I will need to figure out the VSS wiring (might just get the FAST harness), the fan/fuel situation(I bought the FAST harness for that), also how to hook up the MSD 6AL box too. I kinda broke the heater core too putting the engine back in, so I'll need to remove that and fix it. Also I hope I don't have VATS problems, I didn't when I switched to TPI, guess we'll see !!!!!

 

Okay I'm down to the Fuel/Fan/Knock Sensor and some other stuff. I have a few questions.

The POINTS wire, it says to connect this wire to the points input wire on your aftermarket ignition system. I'm running a MSD 6AL, where would I connect this wire to. It is also located inside the car, would I need to extend it to the engine bay and hook it up to the MSD box.

For the Fuel/Fan/Knock Sensor I don't really know how to go about wiring them. I've seen diagrams of how you're supposed to wire them, but that seems to be for applications where the FAST harness is not used. I have the FAST harness. The FAST harness connector is located inside the car by the ECU, do I need to run the wires from the FAST harness to the relays located in the engine bay (would need to run wires through firewall some how)and hook them up the the negative side of relays like in the instructions or could I just splice the FAST wires to the original TBI harness for fuel/fan/knock, doesn't the OEM TBI ECM operate the Fuel/Fan/Knock by activating the relays by switching to ground, just like the FAST instructions want.

The 12V+ SWITCH wire, it is also located in the car. It says connect to a +12V source that is active when the key is in the START and RUN position. This is the wire that actually turns the ECU on, so it is critical that it receives 12 volts when the key is in the ON position and in the START position. Where is a good place to hook this wire to?

The +12V SWITCH H.E. wire. If you are using a hall effect cam and/or crank sensor, this will need to be connected to a +12V source that is active when the key is in the START and RUN position. The other end of this wire, which is found in the bundle next to your CAM HALL EFFECT connector, needs to be connected to the +12V wire on your sensor(s). If you are not using a hall . effect-type sensor this will not need to be connected. I'm not using Hall effect, so I'm guessing I don't need to hook this up to anything, just roll it up and put it off the side as well as the one in the engine bay.

The V.S.S. I have a V.S.S. buffer box (TBI car), when I did the TPI swap I spliced two wires from the buffer box to the TPI harness to get my tach to work. Now I'm using the MSD 6AL and XFI, should I rewire the Buffer box back the way it was (stock) or leave it alone cause the MSD 6AL should operate the tach. I should get the FAST harness for it.

While I'm at it could you also tell me about how to wire the A/C, SES light and what to do about VATS.

Thanks

 

Sorry, I knocked my back out Friday and have been house bound since. I have been on some meds that keep me a little fogged. And on top of that the wife has been watching me like a hawk, Making sure I not moving around.

My son had his PC on and I slipped in to see how you were doing. OOPS the Warden just walked in. Got to go.

I will be at work tomorrow and will send you the info you need. It might be in the evening depending on how the day go's

 

Actually.... AFAIK you will be using the hall effect circuit for RPM capture. It will probably work better then the points circuit. I am not sure how the MSD system is wired up... (never had one before)

but the ignition module outputs a hall-effect type signal.


Edit-
Depending on what kind of signal the ecm expects, you may or may not have good results. The ignition module puts out a 5 volt hall signal.
Some hall effect sensors put out a full 12 volts. It really shouldn't matter, because the computer is most likely looking for the falling edge of the signal (ground), but depending upon how it triggers, it may not work.

 

I took the MSD 6AL box out cause it was causing a drain on my battery.I then hooked up the ignition like stock, put in my back up battery and turned the key...awesome. I had the car up and running like a top. HaHa !!! XFI triumph !!!! But as I was in the drivers seat watching the gauges, they started to jump around, especially the tach and radio and then the car died, now no power at all. Even the dome light is out. I checked all the XFI fuses and they were good. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and they were good (except maybe the 30A can't see inside it), will need to borrow a meter to see if that one is okay. Maybe I fried a fusable link, where are all the links located. I checked the ones I could see in plain sight, are there any in the harness..... 1992 TBI Camaro. Need some electrical help !!!!

 

Weird!

Did you check the links by the starter?

That is where all the power to the car comes from.


Just out of curiosity.... Did you use the hall signal with the module or the points signal from the coil?

Does the xfi do spark timing as well?

 

If you are using the stock ignition setup the XFI instructions say that you don't use the points signal. I don't know if it does spark timing, didn't get that far into tuning it before it went caput. I'll check the starter wires tomorrow, I'm also going to go through the TBI harness as well to make sure it's good...... it continues

 

cool cool.

Yes, to control spark timing you would need to use the module rpm output. Anything else is "downstream" of the timing control.

Good luck with the search.

 

I pulled the TBI harness and did a visual inspection of all the fusable links( forgot to get the meter from work) They all look in excellent shape. BUT the main positive cable from the battery to the starter must of been resting on the header and well it melted to the header and the exposed wire inside, which was touching the header and is melted too. As I said before, I'm not elecrically savy but, if a positive wire becomes grounded out (melted to the header) then there would be no power in the rest of the system due to the ground...... right. So I think I found the problem..... I hope. Argh !!!

 

lol.


That could be it.

Replace that thing!