Just did a motor swap to a 350 TPI and had everything going right, turn the key on gauges would do their check and the check engine light would come on, start it up andthen it would go off, this was all during the inital startup of the motor

went to drive it home last night and i noticed that for no apparent reason the SES light is on solid, the fan kicks on like ive got A/B jumpered when i know that i dont. I have had to do some extensive wiring in the car but the ALDL was not touched to my knowledge. I bought a whole dash with harness and dropped it in like that, does anyone have a dagram of the aldl and an idea of where they go? Or how i could test it? i was thinking using my meter on each pin to ground knowing that obviously A will ring out as a ground but i believe the wires go to the ecm, which is grounded as well, may just give me false info to work with chasing random wires

Ive searched and found alot of people say the ECM is toast but the car is running fine except for a few minor kinks, i used a v6 memcal and jumpered 2 pins to switch the cylinder select to 8 and burned an AUJP to the EEPROM which should be close enough to my motor except for my LT1 cam which is not far off from stock. I would like to get it out of diagnostic mode asap, i havent seen any codes come out like prom error or anything to indicate a bad ecm/prom

ANY help would be appreciated ive got a long road of motor swap gremlins ahead of me and getting it out of SES mode would be the first step to take here

 

It may be that the CTS sensor or connector is bad. If the ECM detects a bad CTS it will run the cooling fan. First check it and also get a scan tool on the ALDL. That will tell you a lot.

To see if the ECM is running from the PROM, do this;

While observing the SES light do a key-on, engine-off. The SES should briefly light up, blink off, then light up solid. Can repeat the test after a minimum of 10 seconds of key-off.

The blink off is the important part. If that occurs then the ECM is running from the PROM.

RBob.

 

We got this hashed out last night actually, I'm using a zif socket which evidently had a poor connection, its running good now, however I do have a question for you, would there be any ill effects from using a maf memcal for the cylinder select? I had a v6 memcal in there at first with the jumper then I started getting cylinder select errors, so I swapped it and it ran rest, its a 730 ecm with an eeprom loaded with aujp using a maf tpi memcal.

I'm showing a knock code on both the memcals but the v6 wouldn't run the car (probably a bad solder on my part) I am pretty sure I've got the 90-92 knock sensor but being that I'm using the maf memcal for backup and cylinder select Idk if its screwing with the sensor, basically I'm not sure if the knock sensor runs through my aujp clone chip or the memcal, any info on this?

 

Have you installed a 3.9K resister from cal 29 to ground ?
To disable knock retard in $8D, set both the knock enable CTS threshold and the differential CTS threshold high (150* C):

 

you can use a external esc to B8 of the 730 ecm.

 

Negative on the resistor, what's the purpose of that?

 

The ecm will check the knock sensor a 3.9K resister from the ecm malf 43 knock sensor input f9 to a switch power may work as well since you are not using a knock sensor.

 

Well I ran a datalog and it looks like I was given the wrong sensor. Knock counts start at 0 then spike up to above 240, resets and keeps going, all at idle. The line graph looks like a polygraph test for knock counts. Well looks like I get to go nail someone at autozone head with their sensor, I even made a big deal about how they're different and the old ones will not work etc, this is why I hate parts jockeys, nobody has any common sense anymore and apparently can screw up the simplest things.

 

The MAF MEMCAL doesn't have the knock filter (ESC module). If you want a knock detection system will need to use a MEMCAL that has one.

Otherwise do as above and set the knock enable CTS threshold high. And disable malfunction code 43 by un-checking the flag for it.

RBob.

 

classic symptom of a bad chip(prom).Do you have to keep your foot on the gas too to keep it running?what year ecm and chip? what knock sensor are u using?

 

Thank you for breaking that down for me Rbob, that makes perfect sense now. I'm using tunerpro and being new to this I'm seeing 2 settings relating to temp on the knock sensors, one is listed as enable diff. temp and the other is enable minimum temp, which one is the one you're describing? They're both under scalars, and I unchecked the flag for 43 already I just don't want to screw with the wrong setting and mess this up

 

0x20C from 30 to FF
0x20D from 35 to FF