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Simple LS Swap question

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Old Sep 23, 2022 | 06:56 PM
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Simple LS Swap question

For those of you who have done the LS swap, I have a simple question: The small red ignition wire that comes from the Standalone harness's fuseblock...where did you connect it to? One of the wires from the factory fuse box? A wire in the factory C100 or C207? A wire directly connected to the ignition wire on the steering column? What am I missing??

I have a 92 (formerly V6) RS, and for the life of me, I cannot find the ignition source that gets power only when the key is on and cranking. I checked the factory fuse box and both the ACC and CRK fuses show power only when the key is on and when I crank it, but none the less, when I connect my ignition fuse to either wire...my car will only crank. It will crank and crank all day but never turn on. Im getting fuel to the injectors and power to the rest of the car. The tester lights turns on in all the right spots, and as far as my youtube mechanic self can see, my multimeter is showing 12v power to all the right plugs and grounds.

Disclaimers: My LS ECM was tuned to disable the VATS, I have all the right wires (so I think after tons of trial and error) hooked into a push-button starter relay board, the coil pack plugs are getting power to both positive and negative banks (the pink and black wires). I looked at the C100 and C207 pinouts on Austinthirdgen to see if I was missing something from the factory harnesses but I don't think I am. Anyway, thanks for your help guys!.
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Old Sep 23, 2022 | 07:17 PM
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Re: Simple LS Swap question

Best not to assume wire colors mean anything with aftermarket harnesses. Best to call the place that made your harness and ask them what is the function of that wire. Then we can help you figure out where to connect it in the car.

Just for sake of education, there is no wire that's only powered during crank except the starter solenoid. The power source interconnects of an LS harness will be either powered in both key RUN and CRANK positions, or be powered 100% of the time in all key switch positions (OFF, RUN, CRANK). We just need to figure out which is appropriate after you learn what is the function of that wire.
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Old Sep 23, 2022 | 07:36 PM
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Re: Simple LS Swap question

Originally Posted by QwkTrip
Best not to assume wire colors mean anything with aftermarket harnesses. Best to call the place that made your harness and ask them what is the function of that wire. Then we can help you figure out where to connect it in the car.

Just for sake of education, there is no wire that's only powered during crank except the starter solenoid. The power source interconnects of an LS harness will be either powered in both key RUN and CRANK positions, or be powered 100% of the time in all key switch positions (OFF, RUN, CRANK). We just need to figure out which is appropriate after you learn what is the function of that wire.

This small little red wire here. Per the instructions, that IS the ignition wire for Key on and cranking power.
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Old Sep 23, 2022 | 07:44 PM
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Re: Simple LS Swap question

Is it meant to be power into the fuse block, or is it meant to be power out of the fuse block to engine ECM?
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Old Sep 23, 2022 | 08:14 PM
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Re: Simple LS Swap question

Originally Posted by QwkTrip
Is it meant to be power into the fuse block, or is it meant to be power out of the fuse block to engine ECM?
The Fuse block has another bundle of wires that connect it to the ECM. That wire, per the instructions, is meant to be connected to the Key-On/Cranking wire which is supposed to be somewhere in the factory wiring. Thats what im having a hard time locating. Did you do an LS swap? Where did you plug yours into?
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Old Sep 23, 2022 | 08:23 PM
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Re: Simple LS Swap question

Got it, thanks for the explanation.

If the fuse block is in the engine bay then most convenient hookup is the large (12 AWG wire size) Pink wire from C100, Terminal F4. This is the old power feed to ignition coil and is the only large pink wire in that bundle, I think.

Now the problem with C100-F4 is that it has no fuse in the interior fuse panel, it is tied back to one of the two main fusible links that run your entire car. So if that wire shorts, then it is going to disable your entire vehicle and you'll have to repair the fusible link.

Inside the car, under the passenger side dash, is a connector called C207 and it has fused circuits (interior fuse panel) that used to be connected to your stock ECM. People often use one of those instead but you'll have to run it all the way back out into the engine bay where you're mounting the fuse block. I don't remember the C207 terminal designations off top of my head, and I think sometimes it varies from year to year so some more research might be needed if that's where you want to tie in.

I used the C100-F4 with my engine swap. Both methods work, there is no matter of right or wrong here. Just gotta weigh the pro's and con's of each and make a choice for yourself.

Last edited by QwkTrip; Sep 23, 2022 at 08:53 PM.
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