I finally got my car to start with the 730 swap... I had a bad HEI distributor module. Okay I took it for a test drive up my driveway it was running horrible. Feels like it has no power. I hooked a scan tool up to it and the BLM stays at 4. Now matter what I do I can't get that number to change. I stuck it in drive and pressed the brake and the gas at the same time to make load on the engine, still the BLM was stuck at 4. Any idea what’s up?

Note: this is with a unmodified AUJP memcal in.

 

Is your engine stock?

 

Stock 350, the only mods I have are the ones in my sig.
I forgot to put up my sig, just fixed that.

 

I recorded some info in Datamaster, if anyone has this program maybe they can help me.

The first 30 sec or so is the engine idling, then I held the engine at about 2000 rpm for about 10 sec, then I did a few small revs. Near the end I put the car in drive and held the brake then hit the gas a little. Engine revs up then when I let go of the gas engine almost stalls out.

Throughout the whole thing the BLM stays at 4!?!

 

Your BLM's are fine. What you are looking at is the fuel cell staying at 4, that's OK.

You do have a code 43, EST failure. Make sure the set timing wire is connected then i would be looking at getting a 350 knock sensor unless you did the resister mod to keep the 305 knock sensor.

The car will run like CRAP with a true code 43.

 

I have 350 knock sensor from my 165.

The code 43 is because I don't have a knock sensor hooked up. I had no idea that it would make the car run so bad. I will pick up a new one and see if that fixes it. I tried putting in a resistor and did not work.

 

Okay I hooked a 3.9 k resistor from the ECM knock sensor pin to the ground the trick the ECM into thinking there is a knock sensor. Temporarily of coarse, just so see if it ran better. It runs a lot better, no codes.

It is not running with much power and almost stalls out sometimes when accelerating very very slowly from a stop. Is it the mods I have done to my car that is making it run so poorly?

I guess I am going to have to learn how to tune a lot better very soon to get this thing running decently.

I have attached a new Datamaster file with my last drive around the block so if anyone feels like giving me a hand in pointing me in the right direction on where to start.

Thanks for everyone’s help; it has helped me out a lot.

 

It looks to me like you're idleing off the butterflies instead of your IAC valve. Yours stays at zero anytime you're at an idle and you never idle down to your desired idle because the throttle body plates are too far open. The way I set mine is get the engine warmed up and adjust the screw until I get about 30 IAC counts. Be sure to reset the TPS when you do that. This way the ECM can adjust it up and down as needed. Otherwise, you'll get an inconsistent idle.

Also, your temps seem like you've adjusted them in the ECM but the thermostat is too high. At idle the temps keep climbing and level off at about 211, probably because of not enough coolant flow. Your fan(s) shut off at about 196 and come back on at about 205. I have mine set to 84C on, 81C off in Tunercat with a high quality 180 degree thermostat. I cruise down the highway at 177 or so.

On the knock sensor, I just jumpered the two wire together at the ESC module and changed to a SD type of sensor. That just makes the 165 knock sensor wire run straight to the ECM instead of having to run another wire. Works fine for me. Autozone tried to see me the wrong sensor twice before I explained to them I wasn't taking another one until they showed me it measured 3.9k (730 style, black plastic) instead off 100k (165 style, white plastic).

I haven't answer all your questions but I've looked at your DM files. You need some work on your VE tables but you know that. Do a search on VEMaster for the 8D. It works! Don't expect it to perfectly tune your BLM's the first time. Run it many time and you keep inching closer to good calibration.

I'll look over your DM files again and if I see something else I'll let you know. I'm a little curious why your not using very many Cells but nothing has jumped out at me yet. After changing the cell values several times I decided to stay with the original settings. Seems to work just fine.

Good luck!

BTW, I'm no "expert" tuner. Just got started last winter and am still learning a LOT!

 

Thanks a lot SMasterson, that’s a lot of good information. I will adjust the throttle blades tomorrow.

 

Okay I am using VEMaster, after driving around 3 times, for 30 minutes recording data and then running VEMaster my car seems to be running a lot better. It still doesn't feel like it's got the kick my 165 did (probably because I need to spend many more hours tuning it). If I tune the 730 right my car will run faster then it did with the 165 right? I guess the big part is tuning, that’s what I have to focus on now.

Questions:
-- If I tune the 730 right my car will run faster then it did with the 165 right? (I understand I am going to have to put a lot of time into tuning before this happens)

-- I don't consider my car that modified so why did it run so incredibly bad with the stock 350 chip?

 

A well tuned '165 and '730 on a stock engine will run the same. One is not better then the other (except '730 is easier to tune).

The '730 will only exceed the '165 when the air requirements by the engine pass the capibilites of the MAF sensor. After that the '730 will shine because there is no sensor anymore. Only problem with the '730 is it you will have to burn proms with every mod you do. It is un-forgiving in that sense, the '165 is forgiving with mods.



Does your engine still run bad with the stock chip?

 

It ran horrible with the stock chip, but after running VEMaster a few times it is getting better, I totally did not expect it to run this bad with my setup.

 

89 IROC Z,
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That's good to hear you got your car running again and I'm pretty sure you'll love the 730 ecm way better than the 165. Anyway I'm in the process of doing the swap myself, but I'm having a problem with the car running. It'll start, but then shut off right away. I've tested my entire ignition sysytem from the ignition module to the pick up coil to the ignition coil itself, and also with my MSD disconnected still the same effect. I Quadruble checked the wire pinout and shorts in the system, but that all was good. I even had a bad ignition module and I had that replaced still no luck. The only thing that I haven't check was that Autozone remanufactered Distrbuter that I bought 7 months ago. I'm really hoping that is my problem because the car did stay running smooth for twice, but not back to back. So that's why I'm thinking the distributer is bad. Wish me luck because I don't know what to do after I exchange the distributer. All in all, I'm glad you got your car figured out because can feel your PAIN!!!!!!