Okay, I got the thing running now, but it is getting WAY too much fuel. The engine is at its operating temp of 190F. I searched and did the IAC and TPS adjustments. The TPS would not adjust to within specs. I couldn't get it to adjust any farther down than 0.66VDC. Not a PROM problem I know. I may go get a new TPS so that I can get the adjustable kind unless someone has a better idea.
Now, if the engine is getting too much gas at idle, this is possibly a problem with the BPW, right? I am running it with the original ANLU bin right now which leads me to believe that I need to change the BPW to something like 120 or even less. What about the IAC steps? Can I change these to give a little more air at idle?
Another important piece of info...I haven't yet put the O2 in the pipe. If the ECM isn't seeing the O2 sensor, what will it do to the initial AFR? Does it just run off a pre-calculated AFR and BPW and run from there?

 

You are running the 8746 right?

That ECM automatically zero's the TPS. .66V should be fine.

Don't worry about the BPW since your injectors ECM and chip all came from the same car. (right?) 10cuin difference in engine size isn't worth changing the BPW IMHO.

Get your O2 working and log some closed loop data. The BLM will tell you how much to lower the VE table in the idle region.

You could just go to the idle region and remove 10% fuel to see what happens, if you can't install the O2 just yet. If its stinking rich remove some more.

AS far as the IAC goes, you don't want it way open at idle. You want the throttle blades just open far enough that you have approx 10 IAC counts at hot idle.

 

Yeah, I am running an 8746 ECM with ANLU. The auto zero on the TPS is a good thing to know. I didn't have any idea that it worked like that. Cool.
It is stinking rich at idle and seems to clean up a little once I open the throttles a bit. It seems like it is still getting too much at that point. It doesn't stumble, but it sounds like it wants a little less gas or some more timing in that area.
I'll do some logging when I get my AutoPROM in a few days. I broke my homemade ALDL cable trying to log when I cranked the engine. I broke the base lead off the transistor.
Thanks for the heads-up, Brent. I'll keep ya posted.

 

Did you set the base timing?.

What's your K/Pa at idle?.
If the .bin (BPC) is a match for you injector size, then you need to work with the VE table.
If your a say 70 K/Pa at idle, then you can readily see where you are on the VE table, and why you're so rich.

If you have the butterflies way cranked open then you want to investigate the why, and double and triple check everything. If all else fails a 1/16" hole or two, and possibly larger might be needed to close up the butterflies. Outer edge of the butterfly, about 1/4" in from the edge, perpendicular to the shaft.

 

Yes. I had base timing set at 6*BTDC with the SET TIMING conxn unplugged. That worked yesterday when I was just cranking on it and had the timing light hooked up. Now that it is running...I can't even see the marks. I know I locked the mech advance out of it. But it's almost like it still has some mech advance working in there. The strange thing is that it runs really nicely for not even being tuned yet. Aside from the smoke, it idles pretty well.
I haven't been able to log any data yet, but I will in a couple of days. I was just trying to see if I could clear up the excess fuel condition (smoke) with a few screwdriver turns and a DVM. I guess it wasn't gonna happen. Oh well...I'd rather foul out a set of plugs than melt a piston or wipe a bearing...or worse.
I may try the 1/16" hole trick. I would really like to get the thing running "by the book" the best that I can before I start modifying stuff to fit the engine. That way, if I screw something up in the cal, I will have a good starting point to go back to. Of course, I will take all the advice and keep good notes as I start tuning. Maybe one hole on each butterfly to start with? I am running an Edelbrock Performer dual-plane manifold.

 

Most cals run an idle timing of like 18-24d. And with a cold engine even more once you toss in the coolant temp bias.

Yes, you want to go by the book as much as possible. Point was rather add a couple holes to close down the buuterflies, rather then cut the TPS. The butterflies can be easily epoxied up if you do happen to go too far.

Do what your comfortable with, hole wise.

Yep, it's all about notes while your learning.

 

Yeah...I caught what you were saying about the TB butterfly holes. Basically, they are there to allow closing the butterflies so that you can close the TPS voltage to the spec and still get airflow into the engine.
That timing is why I couldn't see the marks. I was wondering about the coolant bias. I saw that in the BIN and it made me wonder if that was why I can't see it. Makes sense now. I'll probably do the hole trick with one in each butterfly and do more as needed. Like you said, they can be epoxied back up if I get too much.
I'm a grad student in Marine Science and Mariculture...I know a LOT about taking notes. I take extensive notes in just about everything I do. The note taking thing is one of the best pieces of advice I have seen since I have been on this board.
Grumpy, you are da man!

 

I wondered about this too, but my engine has been bored over by 0.030...almost 370cid now and a pretty stout cam (214/224 @ 0.050" lift and .472/.496" at the valves, 114*LCL) with ported and polished cast iron heads. I just rebuilt this engine and it should be capable of some pretty good numbers with the right tuning. The heads are the masterpiece of it all. Casting boogers are not to be heard of and I even went a little over and above on the short-side radius of the intake runners with a couple of incognito tricks.
Grumpy, I looked at the cal and I saw what you were talking about. The Coolant Temp bias is 20.04 as is the Main Spark bias. Are these used concurrently? I can't see that the ECM would change timing by 40 deg. Hell, I could move my dizzy 30 deg and the engine would run like crap...okay...that was with a carb and/or ProJection 2D (glorified carb IMO).
Anyway, should I zero one of these out and bring it back up from there as I tune? It seems like the Coolant Temp bias would be the one to zero first. What happens in the ECM when the engine is cold (i.e. how does the ECM run a cold engine in choke like a carb would?)
The Closed Loop Coolant threshold is set at 128 in the BIN. Does the ECU hac tell how to calc the coolant temp from this or is it more involved than that?

 

raw 8 bit value to deg F is (value * 1.35) - 40.0
raw 8 bit value to deg C is (value * .75) - 40.0

 

That would be a bad idea.

Read here to understand the timing calculations.

CLICK ME

 

Thanks, Brent!
OH CHIT!!! That is REALLY strange! I had the engine running really well (with the ProJection) with exactly 10 deg of initial advance at 750 rpm idle speed. Of course, the ProJection still relied on vacuum and mechanical advance for decent spark control...I am still not convinced that my vac advance motor was working right. I always thought I had a vacuum leak in that diaphragm. Now I am sure of it. I can also see now why zeroing out the coolant bias would be a bad idea. I think I'll be leaving the coolant bias alone.
Further reading told me why the timing isn't on the marks after a startup. This is why the idle speed "coasts down" after a warm start. I guess that reading thing in elementary school wasn't such a bad thing after all.
EDIT: Mark, so in TunerPro, if I have the prefs set to US, that would say that the 128 CT Threshold is 132.8F? Sounds good to me...I think.

 

TunerPro doesn't have US/Metric preference (and can't, since all calculations are built into the ECUs and not the software). Choose the calculation to suit your unit preference when you add the item to the ECU.

 

That's right. I was thinking about the prefs in WinALDL