165 ALDL connector, data signal pin questions
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Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
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165 ALDL connector, data signal pin questions
O.K., I've been tuning for about a year using only a volt meter on the O2 and MAF wires to read signal voltages. I'm finally ready to try my hand at reading stuff to the laptop via the ALDL connection, but after searching most of the morning, I think I'm more confused than when I first started...
First off, some ALDL cable making pictures and descriptions are showing and/or talking about different pins being the data pin, some using a 12V source, others only a data source and ground... My ALDL connector in my car is as such:
F E D C B A
G
The only drawing I can find of an ALDL to go with this pin diagram uses pin E as data, pin A as ground, and mentions that I may have to use a 10K resistor from pin A to B to enter ALDL mode, thus losing the knock sensor function and kicking in a high idle. Does this sound correct to everyone? Is it not possible to get ALDL info without this resistor? Knock sensor is something I want to watch very closely as I tune for ultimate gas mileage and it would suck to lose that function when I need it most...
Second, I run XP Professional Edition and some of the early threads about ALDL programs mention not working with XP/2000... though those articles seem to be older than most, so I'm wondering if that info is still current for either Winaldl and/or TunerproRT. I have just downloaded winaldl and the full version of Tuner Pro RT this morning (only had the lesser version of GMECMEdit before)... As far as ALDL is concerned, I am familiar with neither, so I don't care which one people tell me to use as long as something hopefully works.
The car is an '86 TA, 165 ECU, running a modded ARAP bin and 6E_V11 mask file.
My head hurts every time I read this forum...
First off, some ALDL cable making pictures and descriptions are showing and/or talking about different pins being the data pin, some using a 12V source, others only a data source and ground... My ALDL connector in my car is as such:
F E D C B A
G
The only drawing I can find of an ALDL to go with this pin diagram uses pin E as data, pin A as ground, and mentions that I may have to use a 10K resistor from pin A to B to enter ALDL mode, thus losing the knock sensor function and kicking in a high idle. Does this sound correct to everyone? Is it not possible to get ALDL info without this resistor? Knock sensor is something I want to watch very closely as I tune for ultimate gas mileage and it would suck to lose that function when I need it most...
Second, I run XP Professional Edition and some of the early threads about ALDL programs mention not working with XP/2000... though those articles seem to be older than most, so I'm wondering if that info is still current for either Winaldl and/or TunerproRT. I have just downloaded winaldl and the full version of Tuner Pro RT this morning (only had the lesser version of GMECMEdit before)... As far as ALDL is concerned, I am familiar with neither, so I don't care which one people tell me to use as long as something hopefully works.
The car is an '86 TA, 165 ECU, running a modded ARAP bin and 6E_V11 mask file.
My head hurts every time I read this forum...
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Car: 1988 Corvette
Engine: 5.7L TPI L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: D36 2:59
I just posted something about a week ago about BLM logging. As far as i can tell i have a 165 ecm too. i built a cable and have been tring to stream data down with winaldl or tuner pro. I've had not had any luck. Until today i think, someone said i need to not only be plugged into E and A but i have to have a 10Resistor between A and B. Is this true not sure yet? If so i heard yeah it does bump idle and disables knock. But i heard once it connects (through the program)you can remove the 10k resisotor from the aldl connector and start to stream data down to a program( winaldl or what you choose. Not sure if this is 100% true yet. but from what i've heard so far and These guys at this site are a smart bunch they've helped me a ton so far. Anyway i'm at work today but tommorw i will test this setup and i will post my results. Do you by chance have a home built cable? just wondering
thnaks
thnaks
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The orange wire is the serial data. The black and/or black with white line is the ground.
The 165 ecm in "normal" mode is 160baud which works with winaldl and diacom. To get the faster 8192baud you need to put the ecm into "ALDL" mode with the 10k resistor. This is for TunerPro, Craig's software, and any other software that is ment for the faster rate.
The 165 ecm in "normal" mode is 160baud which works with winaldl and diacom. To get the faster 8192baud you need to put the ecm into "ALDL" mode with the 10k resistor. This is for TunerPro, Craig's software, and any other software that is ment for the faster rate.
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Originally posted by JPrevost
The orange wire is the serial data. The black and/or black with white line is the ground.
The 165 ecm in "normal" mode is 160baud which works with winaldl and diacom. To get the faster 8192baud you need to put the ecm into "ALDL" mode with the 10k resistor. This is for TunerPro, Craig's software, and any other software that is ment for the faster rate.
The orange wire is the serial data. The black and/or black with white line is the ground.
The 165 ecm in "normal" mode is 160baud which works with winaldl and diacom. To get the faster 8192baud you need to put the ecm into "ALDL" mode with the 10k resistor. This is for TunerPro, Craig's software, and any other software that is ment for the faster rate.
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Car: 91 Red Sled
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You leave the 10k in. Doesn't matter the order of how you plug the scan tool in, just so long as when you try to "connect" with the software, the 10k is in place. Again, with winaldl you don't need the 10k because that software is dedicated to 160baud.
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BAH! 3 hours out there and I still can't connect via TunerPro or Winaldl, with or without the resistor. Checked port settings, settings in the two programs... I've got to be missing something. Anyone have a checklist of items to troubleshoot? This is the part of tuning I hate... I thought I'd have time to at least take some notes or even burn a chip or two by now.
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I found it best to disable all the stupid stuff on the laptop that you'll never use. Like the firewire, IR, and build in modems. Often enough the IR and modems take up serial ports or say they aren't but do. It's confusing and I'm no CS major but that's usually what it ends up being.
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The docking station on my Dell was using a port that I'd never use... which I disabled when trying to kill all unneeded ports to do this tuning stuff. Took me an hour to get back on the network last night. ARG! Still not connecting to the ECU...
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Car: 1988 Corvette
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Hey, what are you connecting with? Is it your own cable?? I'nm having the same problem. I must be totally missing something. I used the 10k resistor and with out it too. Still not able to see any data. I've tried winaldl/tunerPro/datamaster/freescan. I think my cable must not be configuered correct. I've just about givin up i think once i get some extra cash i'll hit the moats site and invest in a cable/software. I really want to be able to read my BLM.'s I rather not take the chance where my car might be running to high or to low outside the BLM range..
Thanks
Thanks
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One problem I've seen other people have, is that the diagram that shows how to wire the serial port connector (DB9, right?) is not "correct". The wiring description is right, however, if you look at how the pins are labeled in the online pictures, they are "backwards" from how the DB9 is actually wired.
Almost made that mistake myself, but noticed that the connector pictured, mine, and the text didn't match up right.
This, of course, if you are using your own cable.
Almost made that mistake myself, but noticed that the connector pictured, mine, and the text didn't match up right.
This, of course, if you are using your own cable.
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Car: 1988 Corvette
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i just flat out gave up on that **** i rather not have a heart attack at younger age. i set my timing and fuel to stock untill i have a blm logger. But i still have some mass air flow, tcc, temp, and pump shoot tweeks. i'm gonna port out the ol tpi then header back exhaust then i'll get the blm tools later. because by then i really will need it
Last edited by 8UpAFord; 04-11-2005 at 11:20 AM.
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Car: 1988 Camaro IROC LB9 F
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160 ALDL
Reading all these replys hurts my head too...
We all wish the learning cure was easy. I have a 165 ECM but thankfully mine has the M pin 8192 baud output and after some false starts I did connect using a 10k resister across A & B. One thing I did wrong was not waiting long enough for the data to begin...sometimes I wait 40 secs or more.
I have seached around and it appears that when using a 160 baud connection.....
1. The 10k resistor may not be neccessary...we see confusion on this subject, I suggest you use a switch or wire jumper to try both with and without...allow the ECM time to respond as long as you have the ignition on (engine stopped) you will see the TPI volts change with pedal movement.
2. Not all scaninng software supports 160 baud transfer....Winaldl does! So be sure the software you select supports 160 baud.
3. I believe that its important to insure that the cable interface you select is suited to the 160 baud transfer, I'm somewhat confused on this issue. You may already have read these links that have info about both 160/8192 http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm
http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm
4. I had trouble with my ALDL plug....contacts were dirty and in the end I wired a new 5 pin din socket in parallel to the original.
5. I use a ancient Toshiba Sateilite 233mhz with Win98SE, people usually give them away, keep it simple. XP with 1.6Ghz is not neccessay....and they scare.me.
We all wish the learning cure was easy. I have a 165 ECM but thankfully mine has the M pin 8192 baud output and after some false starts I did connect using a 10k resister across A & B. One thing I did wrong was not waiting long enough for the data to begin...sometimes I wait 40 secs or more.
I have seached around and it appears that when using a 160 baud connection.....
1. The 10k resistor may not be neccessary...we see confusion on this subject, I suggest you use a switch or wire jumper to try both with and without...allow the ECM time to respond as long as you have the ignition on (engine stopped) you will see the TPI volts change with pedal movement.
2. Not all scaninng software supports 160 baud transfer....Winaldl does! So be sure the software you select supports 160 baud.
3. I believe that its important to insure that the cable interface you select is suited to the 160 baud transfer, I'm somewhat confused on this issue. You may already have read these links that have info about both 160/8192 http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm
http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm
4. I had trouble with my ALDL plug....contacts were dirty and in the end I wired a new 5 pin din socket in parallel to the original.
5. I use a ancient Toshiba Sateilite 233mhz with Win98SE, people usually give them away, keep it simple. XP with 1.6Ghz is not neccessay....and they scare.me.
#14
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I use the winaldl to log data on my 165 ecm and I have to have the 10k resistor in a&b to get anything using pin e for data. If the 10k is out - no data!
I am using a cable from mastach which works on both the 165 and 730 ecm.
I was never able to get tunerpro to work on my 165 but it works on my 730. Go figure!
I am using a cable from mastach which works on both the 165 and 730 ecm.
I was never able to get tunerpro to work on my 165 but it works on my 730. Go figure!
#15
I am new to the tuning world, but I have a question. I have winaldl and want to know should I buy a cable with the the 10k resistor or not? I have not yet had a chance to run any programs, but in time I would like to get tunerpro, and I am sure I will need the resistor for the higher baud rate. But for now, just to get an idea of what the engine is going, will the higher baud cable work with winaldl? I don't wanna buy a cable, then turn around and have to buy another one.
Will
Will
#16
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The 10K resistor is used with the 165 ecu. If you buy the mastach cable it has a seperate wire for the 10K resistor so you can use it or not.
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