Here is a post to let everyone let off a little steam :-)

Post about the dumbest or just plain wrong things that you have come across related to tuning on a electronically fuel injected vehicle.

Keep it clean and pertinent and on topic.

Heres a few that I love:

1) MAF directly measures airflow(arguement in process on the TPI board, chime in for laughs)

2) Just put a resistor in with the temp sensor(see fuel pressure:-))

3) Jack up the timing(we ping from the factory)

4) Crank up the fuel pressure(arent we rich enough already)

5) SD doesnt compensate for anything and a MAF car will.

Sure I'm forgetting some too

later
Jeremy

 

Headers glowing=lean mixture(or too much advance)

Jacking the TPS(raising the "base" voltage from .54) is great for gaining more performance.

Stock injectors are fine for modified engines, injectors should be sized small as possible.


....I could go on all day..

 

Was going to just do a top 10, but 10 was just too easy.

1) Run as much timing as you can, once you hit a wall with the Knock Sensor, add some Toluene, if you get still have some knock, add more toluene.

2) Use a 4,000 RPM stall converter, then brag about how the MAF system offers perfect drivibility,
be sure to tow the car everywhere.

3) Think 15 MPG is doing great.

4) Never bother with a TDC finder, since they break off so easy....

5) Just ignore that scraping noise, on a new engine,
the camshaft drive pin will eventually cut thur the cover, and the noise will go away.

6) As mentioned use a tiny injector in with your 4,000 RPM stall converter, and then wonder why the street guys need to worry about AE.

7) VE Tables, MAF Scalers, are for dweebs, just use the injector constant to fudge things. If there seems to be a continuing knock problem, just add some more toluene.

8) Never try reading up on Abnormal Combustion, just replace the engine every season or two.

9) After selling off the old engine, act puzzled about the rod journals being outta round (secretly, think about running more Toluene).

10) Constantly brag to the world about knowing how to tune, even if all you know how to do is add Toluene. After all brain washing does work. If folks begin to doubt you, get some testimonials from folks that don't have much or any clue about what a well tuned runs like.

11) Any weenie, can get .5 BSFC, try for .3 or better. Ignore the Toluene load, when running the numbers.

12) Think that things are fine, just so long as the WB shows some sort of resonable number, and you have enough Toluene to keep the motor out of detonation. Ignore that rich spike, at launch.

13) Never mention the Toluene load when bragging about your tuning expertise.

14) Never take notes, it's just a waste of paper, and ink. Noting trends is just for the dweebs.

15) Do just enough to try and get the car so that you can drive it, never experiment.

16) If you get tired of *trying* just loosen up the standards of what you call acceptable.

17) All the original *dead guy books* are obsolete, after all we have computers for tuning now.

18) Even thou, you can't defend your logic, argue a point.

 

All you really need to do is run it in closed loop for a few hundred miles so that the puter can learn your driving style.

Closed loop can tune your brain box to work with anything you throw at it.

Factory tunes are lean for emissions even at full throttle (well, in 85-92).

Smog equipment hurts full throttle power so tremendously.

ARAP works well on every MAF car.

AUJP works well on every MAP car.

A narrowband is good enough - remember closed loop tuning the engine?

A mismatched combo can be "tuned with efi" for more power and drivability.

EFI is perfect.

New parts work.

A 900hp fuel pump can give your engine 900 hp.

A $5 fuel pressure gauge is 100% accurate.

 

HyperTech chips are the best!! (and only a couple hundred bucks)

Just take out the thermostat and it'll run at 130 F so the computer will make lots of power.

Stock ignition is all you'll ever need.

Knock sensors are not needed.
(I wish they would just ring the bell)

The vacuum leak makes it idle better.

Never did that when it had a carb on it

Edit:
Forgot to set the dizzy at 10 and set the bin at 5 to get more spark.

 

> New parts work.

And they always fit right, too, with no fabrication.

> 3) Think 15 MPG is doing great.

This one is funny to me. Reason: my '71 project with a 406, no overdrive, a solid roller cam (240/248 I/E @ 0.050), a holley 750 (COMPLETELY box-stock (or is that box-rich?)), 32* of cruise timing, fastburn heads, etc. etc., got 15.5mpg at 80mph over a 120 mile trip running with the secondaries partially open because of the excessive RPM (necessitating a higher than typical throttle opening due to no overdrive.) i've got most everything *wrong* and it STILL got better than 15mpg.

Once I get a '730/HSR setup on it, I expect to improve that number at least 20%. Maybe more with the TKO-600(RR).

And while we're at it (and to stay on topic).........

* Tune for 910mV on the O2. that's right at 12.5:1.

* I run (insert faster than stock times) on stock (MAF/MAP), therefore (tuning isn't necessary / My ideas must be right)

* just turn up the fuel pressure to get the right AFR (910mV of course) with that new 600hp engine.

 

1.)Map relies on tables that relate to the engine. MAF tables relate to the sensor itself and are calibrated to the sensor NOT the engine. That means the MAF will run pretty good no matter what engine size is under it.

5.) SD will not compensate for much when in OPEN loop. A pair of headers, a set of 081s and a 350 truck TBI cam made my stock 305 caprice chip not even run. All it would do was start and die, start and die, no more. I had to pull tons of fuel at idle and add alot of MAP AE and TPS AE. I also had to play with the VE tables all the way to redline. A MAF TPI with the same mods would run nearly perfect without changes atleast to fueling. I could stick a 406 under a 305 or 350 MAF setup and it would run well enough to get me around. The same could not be said for a SD setup.

 

I like that one the best.


how bout this...
19) My name was printed in a magazine one time, the proves I know how to tune(~now send me $350 + your memcal and I'll mail you out the perfect chip~).


IMO, the king of all fallacies...
YOU NEED TO CONVERT TO MAF FROM MAP. THE 730 SUCKS AND IS UNNECESSARILY COMLEXED.

 

The computer doesn't know what engine its controlling!

AND it also corrects for anything that goes bad.

And yes, always argue the point

 

And the grand daddy...

The computer THINKS !

 

ROL thinking of Short Circuit. "A computer just runs programs".

 

" The computer THINKS !"

so there for it IS!

oh, & Jets chips are the best, they only ask you 3 or 4 questions so they know what you have before you even call them,.. & then send you a chip with VATS turned off

 

You want more power out of your 305/350? Just get some bigger fuel injectors - gas is what makes power! SOmetimes you can just raise your fuel pressure, too. You don't need no prom tuning!!!!


And if you want even more - throw away that 48mm throttle body and get a big one like the 58mm Holley or BBK. They bolt right on so there's nothing to it!!!

 

Asked to be respectfully closed due to personal issues.

Jeremy