ok I finally got to log some data with my car, and I found out 1) it's running rich when I get on it, 2) I don't think it's using my O2 sensor (so I'll be installing a heated O2 asap), 3) my BLMs were 150 something when I was getting on it, yet they calmed down to 128 after sitting at idle. So I think I probably need to start giving myself some more advance at high rpms, correct? I'm going to play around with that, but I had a question: I just got a new timing light to check my timing (never checked it since I've owned the car). Since I can burn chips now, should I try to advance my base timing or just program it into a chip? and also, should I check my fuel PSI (it's an adjustable regulator, and I never set the psi, just installed and took a guess). I was thinkin whatever my fuel PSI is at is probably fine considering I have plenty fuel when I get on it. I'm not askin for handouts here, just for a point in the right directions. Thanks guys

 

Make everything work right first.
Or you will simply have to retune everything again after you fix it.

So fix your sensor problem.
Adjust your FP to 43.5 psi.
Make sure everything else is working correctly.
Then start burning chips.

 

I'm gonna fix this stuff, that's why I bought the timing light, next will be fuel pressure gauge and heated O2.

I was just wondering what you guys suggest as far as base timing. Should I set it to stock 6* or try bumping it up some more?

 

You might want to research this a little more.
You don't have a clear understanding of how this works.
The base timing is basically for start up and limp mode use only.
The ecm controls timing above ~300 rpm.
So as long as the base matches the chip.
It doesn't make any difference where you set the base if your going to DIY the prom. You simply set the SA where you want it in the chip.
You might want to change the base timing only if your not doing the prom and want to experiment.
It's really not the way to go about it though.

 

oh ok... a light just turned on above my head, I just hope I'm on the right track.

so basically the computer expects it to be at 6*
you say adjust timing to 6* (to match the computer).
Once at this point (and my O2 and fuel PSI were fixed), then I could start playing with the spark tables.

If I were to set it to 10* with a light and left the computer thinking it was at 6*, it would have the same effect as increasing timing by 4* across the board in the tables, correct? And this is why some people do it, in substitution for DIY PROMing? Let me know if I'm right or wrong or almost there. If I'm wrong, just call me an idiot and tell me to do some more reading. Thanks for your help though Z69

 

The first thing you HAVE TO DO, is just baseline the tune. That means just start with the stock specs., so you know where you're starting from. Plug heat range, base timing, min idle air, everything needs to be *by the book*.

Once you have the baseline right, and know what the engine runs like then slowly make changes, AS NEEDED. AS NEEDED, too often guys start tweaking things, cause they feel like it, instead of seeing what the engine wants. Dial in a bunch of timing, cause you feel like it, and you'll be putting pistons and rings in. Go slow, takes notes, and make small changes, and look for trends, the engine will tell you exactly what makes it happy. If you try forcing what you want or you think on an engine, it'll in no uncertain terms tell you it didn't want or like what you did.

 

You got it.

And it's more likely you don't need 4* everywhere.

 

AWESOME =) Thanks for the help guys. I'll probably be back with more questions once I get my engine into a good baseline condition.