I finished my 165 -> 730 running $58 ECM swap tonight (finally, I just didn’t have time to actually work on it, probably took me 20 min to repin the harness and maybe an hour or so under the hood, mostly because I gave up on making an adaptor harness to plug the MAP into the MAF wiring, I just took the entire passenger side harness apart, pulled the MAF wiring out of it and then rerouted 3 of the wires into the large section of harness that runs along the firewall and added a MAP plug… looks factory, all loomed and properly taped).

After some input from some board members on the bin, and comparing samples, in a lot of cases being unable to figure out why there were such dramatic differences I decided to grab a copy of BBZB and set the cylinder select to 00 (8 cyl), scaled the BPC vs EGR (I got 108.xx for my 350 with 36pph injectors in it, set it to 109) and disabled the EGR (set it to the max turn on temp).

Plugged a the chip into a modified memcal (previously tested, made a socket to plug the memcal into the burner and was able to verify the chip through the socket, so I’m assuming that the chip socket is fine), plugged the memcal into the ecm, and plugged the harness connectors into the ecm.

Turned the key on… huh, fast flashing check engine light and the fans are on. On a whim I turned the key to start, still sitting in the passenger seat, fully expecting nothing between the car sitting since Friday 2 weeks ago, so much requiring and repining, first try…

It fired right up (with about ˝ the cranking that I had under the best conditions with the 165, even when stock). It actually idles and runs fine, but still getting the fast flashing check engine light.

Thinking bad checksum/chip problem I burned a second chip.

No dice, again, starts/idles beautifully but get a fast flashing light.

Anyone know what is going on?

 

The fast flashing SES is a checksum error, the engine/ECM is running on the limp mode backup system. If you used a '256 EPROM need to load the $58 code in the upper half, or double stack the bin.

RBob.

 

I'm using 27c512’s (at least for the chips that I tried in it). I’ve been burning them with a c000 offset to work in the ‘165 which I thought puts them sorta at the end and that’s what I did here.

Am I missing something?

Is there some reason why stacking bins would be better then just writing them to the chip with an offset?

I do have some 128’s and 256’s sitting around, was going to try a 128 next but since it was past 4am, and I had to be at work in the morning that idea died pretty quickly.

 

My Pocket Programmer was weird in that reguard, I had to hex edit the two .bins together for it to burn right, just using the offset wouldn't work.

 

Well, it's not a stacked vs offset chip thing... I just burned a stacked chip and it did exactly the same thing.

Any other suggestions?

 

Well, I tried something else… I set the program ID to AA so it shouldn’t check the checksum.

That got rid of the fast flashing light and gave me a solid check engine light can’t seem to get a connection with the ecm or any codes, even by grounding the diagnostic terminal, just a solid check engine light if the key is on.

 

Have you tried a completely stock bin? Don't start the car, just see if it key's on properly with the blink SES light and then steady on.

 

I would go back and check all the wire/pin connections. I have a zif socket in my computer and every time I put a chip in I turn the key on to see the SES light. If the light flashes fast the chip didn't make a good connection. Since you just did the repin I would suspect a bad connection. But what do I know I don't have enuff posts to be worth 2 cents.

 

Hum… turns out that Bill of Promgrammer fame is a local, lives about 10 minutes from my house and a friend of the speed shop owner that I spend way too much time at.

Talked to him yesterday and he looked over my bin… noticed a few funky things… I still don’t have an explanation for why the AA chip didn’t run right, but I do have an answer for why the previous ones were flashing like I had a bad checksum:

Tunerpro was calculating an incorrect checksum, and I couldn’t even fix it manually since it would recalculate when I tried to save it.

Bill was also pretty shocked (well, his initial reaction was “you really need to look at what some of these tables and values do before you go poking around”) when I repeated some of what are accepted truths on this board about the $58 stuff. I may have to start a separate thread.

Anyway, I’ve burned a couple of chips since learning all this and the car is running OK, at least pretty drivable. The only real weirdness that I ran into was that the stock BBZB bin that I downloaded had the fuel cutoff set at 3500rpm, wtf? I was going crazy trying to figure out why the car was freaking out when I went over 3K rpm last night till I noticed that and set that to something more reasonable.

 

Oh, and considering my 20 minute harness repining, somewhat incomplete info that I’ve run across about parts of the swap and the cutting apart and reassembling the engine bay harness I’m actually shocked to report that I don’t think I made any mistakes with the hardware end of this… everything appears to be working correctly after fixing the chip issues.

 

You want to make sure you're using an XDF file that's "sized" to the bin you're using. There are a number of people who have "expanded" the $58 code to 32k from 16k. The XDF files are different between these two sizes. It's possible you ran a 32k checksum calculation on a 16k bin.....

The fuel shutoff algorithms don't use an explicit engine speed. Instead it uses the time between reference pulses to infer engine speed. When you go from a 3X signal to 4X, you've decreased the time between pulses (at the same engine speed) by 33%. This calibration isn't affected by the cylinder select calibration. So, you have to do what you did and change the fuel shutoff cals separately.....

I'm very interested to hear more details on why Bill reacted the way he did to your cal. While I haven't driven my vehicle around on $58 yet, I would be interested to hear of any roadblocks ahead!

 

That reminded me, I uploaded a corrected ECU file for the $58 code to Moates site: 58RR_V14.ECU

I fixed the filesize error from V12.

This ECU also has both entries for the speed limiter: 6 & 8 cylinder. Only need to use the one that matches your engine.

This ECU file has just about every calibration entry in it.

RBob.

 

That saved me a lot of work.
Thanks