Well as you know the fans are working fine and I have driven the car a couple times, the arap bin runs fine, just a couple things I don't like about it that can easily be changed in the chip. One being the converter locks in sooner than I like.
I have some basic questions that may sound stupid. I can't seem to answer them from reading and I swear you guys told me once before.
Anyway, I have not been able to datalog mainly due to the fact that the battery on the lap top needed replaced. It is now charged and ready to go, I just need to figure out how to datalog or record a short drive so I can look it over and also how to make changes on the fly.
I have watched some things quite a bit while idling in the garage, (lap top plugged into a wall outlet last couple of days) and I noticed the blm's at 150 which is way lean at idle. I am suspect to think it is lean throughout the rpm ranges as well although I have not datalogged this to confirm, but the throttle is not as snappy as before with stock chip and 48 lbs. fuel pressure. I have since reset fuel pressure to stock 44 lbs. so I could begin the fueling mods in the chip. It just doesn't have the snap it had before.
Anyway, what is the first mode of attack to dial in the idle and part throttle fuel curves? I have heard some say do it with MAF tables, others say don't touch those. Seems to be a mixed bag of answers and very little MAF info to boot.
Something else I don't understand. If fuel is on a scale, load verses RPM, and your BLM or integrator says you are lean,,,then how do you know in which block to add fuel? Is there a similar scale for BLM's so you can match the BLM's with certain rpm points or something? Does that make sense? All I have seen so far is BLM's at the bottom of the screen in it's own single column. I would like to make these changes on the fly so I can see if it's the direction I want to go before I burn it to a chip.
Is making changes on the fly as simple as opening up Tunerpro RT and starting the car, opening the bin and begin making changes? What I mean is, if I make a change, then hit save change, does it immediately take affect? That sounds too easy. Sorry for the rambling long post. If you would rather reply to me via e-mail it's,,,,,,hotrodjones@fuse.net hope you all had a good holiday,,,,Larry.

 

On MAF, FIRST make sure your injector constants are set right. SECOND, make sure what's happening is happening because of normal conditions, which means make sure there's no exhaust or intake leaks, all cylinders are firing (cylinder drop test = disconnect IAC, and then disconnect on injector at a time to see if any cylinders are weaker than the others), and that your MAF burnoff functions (can see the lil wires glow red at key off).

Then go in and play with the MAF tables. Your MAF tables have NOTHING to do with RPM in $6E. Doing MAF tables pretty much requires datalogging, though. Watch the BLM and Integrator, and see how much they are at a bunch of different places (bunch of different MAF grams/second values), and modify the MAF tables accordingly. If you find that the MAF tables need more than just idle adjustments, you'll have to adjust the MAF scalars too. Each time you adjust the MAF scalars, you'll have to adjust the scale factor for each table, so that they display correctly, and then adjust each table to the new "corrected" values. It's a little bit of a pain in that regard. You'll have to look at old bins with old xdf's, and new bins with new xdf's, and make the tables "look" the same. I think I've lost myself already.

If really real time emulating, then yeah, you can click a few buttons and see the changes happen right in front of you. It's been a while since I've done that on my car, so I don't remember the exact procedure in TP. Just don't have a chip in the autoprom while emulating!

 

Thanks for the tips, I am printing everything I can find to read while I am in the car. All this inside info from people in the know really help. I am going to have to try this and see what happens. You had my head spinning with the MAF scalers,,,lol. Once I have it on the screen I may be able to make sense of it. I will give it a try tomorrow,,,,,thanks again, Larry.

 

I'm not good on MAF tuning at all so I can't be much help there but I'll throw out some suggestions if I think it may help you. Hopefully the other MAF guys can set me straight if I'm off base.
I'm just a struggling SD tuner myself and always still learning. My new combo is teaching me more than the last one for sure. Got it to the point of good driving and am not afraid to take it for a two hour drive. Now the thinking and investigating gets more intense.
Read...read, and then some more and the concepts begin to make sense.
Exactly what to change varies from mask to mask and that's when its helpful to search for particular combos when "roughing" it in. Once you are at that point search for your type of problem with the little things loke bogs, idle, starting and see what has helped other combinations.
TPI, TBI, etc all need to do the same thing so try not to limit your knowledge to just TPI. The concepts begin to blend together as you read about things others have gone through. Each has its little issues that have significance towards the other types. Don't try to nail down a problem to one thing. Try to see all the ways the issue can be effected by a change and try to understand the reason you need the item to be changed. Experiment a little (but not radically) on a setting to see what if ??
And most of all watch for a change when you make an adjustment.
IMO, If you adjust something and don't see the expected response from that change, put it back where it was and look for another answer to the problem.
Most of the time problem areas are corrected by the combination of multiple things. Making a single change to anything is usually only half the answer.
Do the part throttle stuff and get the car to have decent maners, then look for the snappy response. It may just return during the process. At least then you are not as likly to cause any damage from running lean. You will get better at this quickly once you start seeing what the changes are doing in the logs. Things will get progressivly better and you will feel good about it.
Don't be afraid to take a step backwards and start over.
Its not a failure, just a re-alignment.
Its a time consuming process and there is no magic bullets for the most part.
(unless Grumpy and RBob are hoarding them )

BTW, I still need one of those magic 8 ***** though
...Is it the off idle 60 Kpa area too lean when the spark is dropping and the AE fuel is increasing ?? (shake, shake, shake..) ------> "YES"
Life would be so much easier.

 

I have one, but it's really expensive, and there's no more available. Sorry...
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.
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.
.
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It's only 33% accurate though, hehe.

 

Very solid information guys. I will get back to the car today.
It actually behaves nicely in normal driving, no bogs or stumbles, and the idle is more smooth and steady with this arap bin. The fans are coming on sooner now and it's keeping the engine cooler for a longer period of time while I run the A/C in stop and go traffic so that was a much needed improvement.
As far as injector constants being set right,,,what exactly is correct and not so correct? Is this adjustable or is it a number that is a result of something else?
The lean (150 blm) that I mentioned was just simply idling in the garage while I had the laptop plugged into the wall. I now have a new battery for the laptop so I will go for my first drive with Tunerpro rt running. I just have to figure out how to make it record so I can watch the road,,,lol.
I will let you know what I see and/or don't see,,,,thanks guys,,,,Larry.

 

Even if the magic 8 ball is correct only 33% of the time, I want it! I'm only correct 17% of the time.

The initial injector constant setting should match the size of the injectors you have in the car (enter "24" for 24 lbs injectors). As you data log, you'll need to review what the INT / BLM numbers are doing in each BLM cell. If the numbers are universally high across all cells (140 - 150 range, etc), this would indicate a lean condition that the ECM is trying to correct by adding more fuel. A BLM # of 150 is about 17% higher than the ideal 128. You could then apply a 17% increase to your injector constant for a new number of 28. Data log again, see how that looks. This only works if you are univerally lean (or rich) across the board. Like RednGold86Z eluded to, you may have "pockets" of rich or lean areas, and would need to adjust the MAF tables accordingly.

Datalogging in TunerPro RT is pretty simple. However, you must first specify the file for which you will be "writing" the data log to, or you will get an error message. Check out this thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...-log-file.html

Making changes on the fly in TunerPro RT is also simple, but be careful not to make too many changes at once or make drastic changes, and try to keep a log of what you do change. After you make the change, hit the "update" button to have it take effect on the fly.

You can download your data log into an Excel file for easy / customized viewing, then work from there. (You'll see a post from me on that shortly).

Good luck!!

 

Actually you'd have to reduce the injector constant by 17% in order to richen it, in the example above.

What injectors do you have in there?

If there's only a problem at idle, there's also an injector bias table that can be used, but for now, let's not go there.

 

DOH!! Exactly right - you'd reduce by 17% to richen it up. Sorry for the confusion!

 

What kind of math formulas are you using to come up with percent changes?
That would help greatly if I had a math formula to work with so I could change the fuel requirement exactly where I need to rather than guessing. The injectors are stock for an 88 L98,,,I believe that would be 19 lbs per hour if I'm not mistaken? Larry.

 

In the example I cited above, I calculated as follows:

(150-128)/128 = 17% difference between 150 and 128.

I wrongly suggested increasing the injector constant to account for the universally lean condition, but the math I used was as follows:

24 + (24 x .17) = 28 (to increase injector constant by 17%)

It should have been:

24 - (24 x .17) = 20 (to decrease injector constant by 17%)

I am rounding to the nearest whole number, but this should help get you started. That's why I like to work in Excel, using forumlas to see the % differences in whatever components I'm looking at, and to figure out a good target for any changes I want to make.

Hope that helps!
Dan

 

That helps a ton, thanks again guys, always a big help,,,Larry.

 

I think they are 22lb in a 88 vette. Well I'm pretty sure.

 

Okay I got my first data log, drove for about 10 minutes and made a full throttle pass. BLM's are high all the time, sometimes going to 160 and staying there. They seemed to be around 150 or so most of the time, car is super lean I suspect.
You mentioned attacking the injector constants first if it's lean all the time. I have went through the constants list and see nothing that is labled "injector constants" Where are these injector constants you speak of?
You also mention to check the BLM's in different cells to find pockets of lean/rich conditions,,,,all I see is the BLM shown in the flags on a single line,,,how do you look at BLM's for a certain cell,,,,,is there a BLM graph? Thanks,,,,Larry.

 

In TunerPro, in the "Constants / Scalers" box, scroll down to the lines that say "Single Fire F.I. Size @ 40 psi" and "Double Fire F.I. Size @ 40 psi". Click those open and you'll see where to enter the injector size (expressed in pounds per hour). I believe your set up uses single fire, but I like to change both, just in case

Before changing the injector constant, pull a few spark plugs to see how the engine is ACTUALLY running. I had a vacuum leak that was causing the O2 sensor to read lean, showing high BLMs as the ECM was calling for a lot more fuel. Pulled the plugs and they were black as night. Fixed the vacuum leak and the BLMs looked MUCH better. Not saying this is what you are experiencing, but it's always a good idea to check.

To view certain BLM cells, I exported my data log to Excel and then used the "Autofilter" function to isolate each BLM cell. The "playback" function is cool, but you can't really analyze the data in detail that way.

 

I will pull some plugs and check before hand.
I have seen the single fire and double fire columns you mentioned,,,when I brought those up they both had 22.30 something in there. So by lowering that number you richen the fuel curve? Do I have that right?
With that said,,,,I noticed I can't really analize the date in detail, trying to watch the rpms and BLM's at the same time, it's hard to make small accurate adjustments without a nice graph to look at.
Last,,,,the vacuum leak you mentioned,,,isn't there a certain column with a number that you can look at that will give you an idea of whether or not you may have a vacuum leak? I seem to think I read that somewhere in this mass of information,,,lol. Thanks for the help,,,Larry.

 

Correct - if you lower the injector constant, the ECM will increase the PW to account for the smaller flow number, which will richen it up.

I'm not sure about what data element would show a vacuum leak, but high BLMs and black plugs generally indicate one

Once you get the data in Excel, you can graph it any way you'd like

 

I have one more stupid question that is bothering me. When I am playing back the recording I cannot pause it at anytime. While it is playing the pause and stop buttons are not visible anywhere. It just simply plays until the end. I would like to be able to pause it at various points to look at some things,,,,is it possibly to have the pause button at the ready while playing back the recording? Just something I thought would be helpfull.
tomorrow I pull plugs and possibly change the injector constants to fatten up the mixture using the formula you told me the other day, burn a new chip and go for another drive and record some more,,,,wooohooo and it never stops from here Larry.

 

I'm wondering if there's some problem. BLMs that high with MAF means something is askew.

Is your O2 sensor working at all?

How's the fuel pressure?

It would take a BIG vacuum leak to make BLMs go up when the engine is loaded. But, if the air ducting between the MAF and TB is torn or broken, it would be easier for that to happen.

 

The O2 sensor is a new GM unit that I installed a few months back when I did the header/y-pipe and cat back exhaust, (cat is deleted).
When watching the recording there are a ton of cross counts for the O2 and when it gets to 255 it starts over at zero again, guess that is normal?
When watching the O2 sensor it is moving all over the place so fast its hard to pinpoint a specific number but it does change color to red once and a while, seems to go to single digits and then to over 900 something.
I have set my fuel pressure back to 44 lbs. (vacuum line disconnected) which is where it was when the car still had the stock fuel pressure regulator.
When I had the stock chip still in the car, it ran the best with 8 degrees of base timing and 50 lbs. of fuel pressure, went 13.92 at 99 mph.
Since I have the ablility to burn custom chips now I figured it was best to return fuel pressure to the normal 44 lbs. and leave it.
I am not aware of anything torn on the air intake track but it won't hurt to double check to be sure.
I am going to watch the recording some more this morning and study the BLM's closely, I want to say the lowest they ever got was 147 for a very short time, but mainly stayed at 150 or higher.
Funny thing is, as lean as this car appears to be, I got very little knock counts and it never pulled any timing out either.
I could bump the fuel pressure up first and go for another drive just to see if there is a change in the BLM condition. What do you think about that???? Waste of time? I can tell you though, with this ARAP bin in the car and 44 lbs of fuel pressure it does not feel quite as strong as it did with the stock chip and 50 lbs. of fuel pressure. It used to haze the tires easily, now it struggles. I suspected the car was lean right off the bat before I even had a datalog. Please let me know, I will go over the other things you suggested here shortly. Thanks, Larry.

 

Reviewing the data in Excel was much easier for me - definitely give it a shot.

Let us know what the plugs look like - I'm real curious.

 

A little more detail info,,,I was watching the datalog closer,,,,the idle seems to be the leanest with a BLM of 160.
Once I start cruising down the road it comes down around 145-150 while moderately excellerating to speed, once cruising at 55-60 mph which is about 1500 rpms the BLM's settle in at 145 and stay there, once off the throttle and slowing down they start coming up and at idle it pegs at 160 again.
On a full throttle run they hover around the 145 mark again.
So it appears the idle is the leanest,,,,but full thottle and cruise also need more fuel, but not as much.
correct me if I am wrong but if I change the injector constants by the formula you gave me and use the 145 BLM number then the car is lean by about 13%,,,,this will help the idle part some as well I assume but probably not enough,,,and if I try to fatten the car enough with injector constants to help the idle then part throttle and full throttle will be too rich,,,correct?
Soooo by using the 145 BLM number and decreasing the injector constants by 13 percent it will get me close,,,,but I assume the idle needs more work,,,,what do I look for to change the idle fuel mixture by itself?
I am going to look at the plugs now and let you know. Hope that extra bit of info makes sense. Larry.

 

Your thinking is correct. To richen up just the idle even more, you would increase the "Grams / Sec" values on the first 3 or 4 entries of MAF table 1 (using a similar percentage theory). Using Excel, you could also reference the high BLM numbers you are getting at idle and see what MAF voltages are associated with them to further pin point the area(s) of need in the MAF tables.

RednGold86Z makes a very good point, so before making any changes, definitely make sure everything is functioning properly, no vac / exhaust leaks, plugs confirm what the data is saying, etc.

 

Everything seems to be ok. I checked the air intake track, took the maf off so I could flip the rubber hose ducting over and check for cracks of any kind.
All the clamps are nice and tight, it looks good.
I pulled 3 different plugs out and all ground electrodes were white and the porcelen was also white with no color at all. Definately on the lean side.
With that being said,,,,,I think I will start with the lowest BLM reading I saw which was 145 while cruising and change the injector constants by 13 percent, which should make the cruise and full throttle about right.
It should also help the idle to some degree,,,correct? At that point I should then take another data recording and see how it all looks? What I am thinking is it will also help the BLM of 160 at idle to some degree. Determine how much more the idle will need and correct that in MAF table 1? I think I have that right. Sound like a plan? Larry.

 

Bone white porcelain would indicate it is truly running lean, which the ECM is clearly trying to correct for. Interesting that with a stock chip it ran ok, but now it's very lean with minor modifications to this bin. Did you do any mechanical upgrades in the interim?

Yeah - lower the injector constant by 13% and go from there. That will help out your idle, too. Data log and start analyzing all over again

I hope the weather is decent this weekend, I need to do some data logging myself...

 

I haven't touched a thing. Keep in mind though with the stock chip I was running 50 lbs. of fuel pressure though, which got rid of a lean stumble it had off idle and stuff, and it pulled much harder through the gears as well. When I went to the ARAP bin I went back to the stock 44 lbs. fuel pressure setting so I am guessing that is where the difference is.
I am getting ready to burn a new chip right now with 13% less injector constants, go install it in the car and see what happens. I hope it stops raining soon here as well, since I would like to make another datalog recording and I hate to get the car wet. I may have to wait until tomorrow, but I can at least run it in the garage and see if the BLM's at idle have improved any. Thanks alot,,,,I will keep you informed,,,Larry.

 

I was looking at MAF table 1,,,,,I am not ready to change that yet but I want to make sure I understand it correctly
Down the left side starting at the top you have Voltage and the numbers decrease as you go down,,,I am assuming this is throttle position voltage? Just guessing.
And on the right side starting at the top is Grams per second which is from the MAF I assume? Those numbers decrease as well when going down the column. So what exactly do you change here?

At an idle my MAF is showing roughly 7.02 grams and it flickers slightly to 6.98 and my throttle position is at .53 volts at idle.

I assume these are the numbers listed in the columns of the MAF table 1? So what do you change, up or down, what affect does it have? Larry.

 

The voltages on the left hand column of the MAF tables are the actual voltage readings from the MAF sensor. On the right is the corresponding Grams per Second of airflow that the ECM will correlate with that particular voltage.

So, if you are running lean at a particular voltage (airflow), you would increase the Grams/Sec value of airflow for that voltage, telling the ECM that MORE air is passing through than it thinks, so it will increase fuel accordingly. Does that make sense?

If, say, the MAF table is showing 7.02 gms/sec at idle (at a specific voltage) and you are seeing BLMs around 145, you could increase this number by 13%, to 7.9 gms/sec. This tells the computer that more air is flowing at this particular MAF voltage, so it will add more fuel to compensate.

MAF tables should have a relatively smooth increase from one value to the next, with ending values on one table being very close or matching to the beginning values of the next, so keep that in mind if you start changing only 1 or 2 entries.

 

That makes sense. I haven't messed with them yet but I did change the injector constant and burned the chip.
I installed it in the car and linked up Tunerpro,,,,idling in the garage after it warmed up the BLM's settled back in at 160 again so the idle is still lean, I did not go for a drive yet to see if the cruising and full throttle has improved yet but not sure if the injector constant made alot of change at idle because it will only read the BLM's to 160 and stop, so who knows how high it actually was. I will go for a drive later and see what happens. Thanks again,,,Larry.

 

Are the screens still in the MAF?

RBob.

 

TTT

 

Sorry guys, I went on a short vacation and just got back a couple hours ago.
Here is where I am at,,,,I changed the injector constants to fatten the fuel curve throughout,,,,I have not had the chance to datalog the car but I did go around the block, it made some difference according to the butt dyno, the car pulls a little harder through the gears. I still need to datalog, which I should be able to do tomorrow.
As far as the MAF goes Rob, the rear most screen is removed. Mainly because a year ago I was having MAF trouble codes and someone here suggested that I clean the sensitive wire inside with alcohol and a cutip, which I did. In order to do that a screen had to be removed and I chose the rear most screen since the front screen seems to be the one that takes the brunt of protecting the wire so I felt it should remain for that reason.
Other than one screen missing, it's a stocker MAF.
I will datalog tomorrow and see if the BLM's have improved any.
So how was everyones weekend? Larry.

 

Finally got a datalog in. My butt dyno didn't lie,,,,car feels a little stronger and the numbers have improved.
At idle the BLM's are a steady 152 now,,,much better than the 160 before but it still needs more fuel in the idle department.
At cruising 55-60 mph it is near perfect with a BLM of 126-128 and steady which is close enough for me, so I don't think I want to mess with that.
I made a full throttle run and the BLM's settled in at 141 and stayed there until I let off. So full throttle needs more fuel as well but it's not as lean as it once was.
I want to attack the idle first which "87 vette owner" explained earlier,,,then make another data run I guess? Once that is fixed then I need to attend to full throttle mixture? I assume that would be in PE mode? So far so good,,,,Larry.

 

I am trying to understand the MAF table #1 so I can richen the mixture.
On the left side of the column you stated that is actual MAF voltage,,,,and on the right is MAF grams per sec. When watching my datalog I see the MAF grams per second readings but I see no readings for MAF voltage output?????? How do I know which MAF voltage column I should change in the MAF tables?
At an idle I have roughly 5.77 to 6. something grams per second on the MAF reading but I can't exactly match that to a column in the MAF tables and I don't know what the MAF voltage is at an idle, where should I look? Larry.

 

There's a nice article written by Rbob up in the stickies that should answer your question. And several ones before it.....

 

You don't necessarily need to focus on the voltage when tuning. By mapping a "grams / sec" value of airflow to each voltage, you are telling the ECM that when it "sees" voltage value "x" from the MAF, this is how much air (in grams/sec) is entering the engine.

In your example below, your ECM is "seeing" 5.77 to 6 grams of airflow per second at idle, based on the voltage coming from the MAF. Now, if you go into MAF table 1, you should see values that are close to (or equal to) 5.77 or 6 grams / sec. If you want to richen it up, you would raise those values (say by 19% - so you'd raise them to something like 6.8 - 7.1); the ECM will see these higher grams/sec values (at the same voltage) and "think" more air is entering the engine at that particular voltage, so it will add more fuel. (Just keep in mind my point below about the increases from one grams / sec value to the next).

The hard drive in my lap top bit the dust this weekend , so I wasn't able to do anything on the car. Time to hit Ebay...

 

Sorry to hear about the laptop crashing,,,,did you lose all your data?

I understand the table now, and I know you mentioned about keeping all the tables somewhat uniform and smooth.
With that in mind, in order to do that,,,wouldn't I have to change all of the MAF tables in table #1 to make it smooth all the way through?
What I mean is since I need to work on idle which may only be 2-3 lines in Table #1,,,,,in reality I will need to change all the lines about the same percentage to keep everything uniform? Correct? Thanks for the help, saving me once again Larry.

 

Fortunately, I was only using the lap top for tuning purposes, so I really didn't lose anything. Once I retrieved the latest bin I had been working from AutoProm, my heart started beating again

Re: changing the other values around - if you increase your target value(s) by 19%, you could then only increase the adjacent value by 14%, then the next value by 9%, the next value by 4%, and no change for the rest. This would somewhat hold similar relationships between the values, so that you don't have any huge jumps or very small increments between the values.

Hopefully that makes sense

 

Makes perfect sense,,,,thanks very much. Glad to hear the laptop wasn't a total loss,,,,,got me thinking I should keep duplicates of everything I do just in case I experience the same thing,,,,thats a close call. Keep in touch,,,,I am sure I will have more questions after I get the idle sorted out,,,I need to tackle the PE mode or full throttle stuff, since the BLM's at full throttle were a steady 141,,,,I need more fuel there as well. Thanks, Larry.

 

Cool.

I plan on backing up a lot of the files on my PC this weekend since the laptop was kind of like a warning shot

Good luck - we'll definitely keep in touch as there seems to be no end to the quest for the perfect tune...

- Dan

 

Thanks alot Dan, this car is finally starting to run much better.
I had it idling in the garage and up to normal temperature, the BLM's at idle are now a steady 140, still lean but much better than the 150 I had before. I guess I was a little conservative on the changes, just trying to sneak up on it. I will go a little more and see what I get.
As far as changing the full throttle mixture, is it just as simple as changing the numbers in MAF table 6? Much like the idle stuff in table 1? If so I might have most of this stuff licked.
Then I may start playing with timing,,,sheeesh, you are right,,,it never ends. Talk to ya later,,,Larry.

 

No problem! After all the great information I've received on this board, it's nice to be able to "pay it forward" once in a while (even though I'm still VERY new to this, too).

You have the right approach - small steps. You don't want to accidentally blow by something that might work nicely.

I haven't started my full throttle tuning yet, so I don't have any experience with it, but I believe the tuning is primarily handled using the Power Enrichment (PE) parameters, along with Open Loop AFR % vs. Load. Narrow band O2 readings should be in the .850 to .900 mv range for a safe A/F ratio. There are probably a few stickies / threads that discuss WOT tuning, so definitely check them out.

Have a great weekend!
Dan

 

I hope you guys are still around. I had some time to play with the car this evening. I have the lean idle that I wanted to address, rather than keep burning chips I thought I would Emulate and try it in real time while driving, get it where I want it and then burn a chip.
Anyway, I connect to the ECM, Hit the emulate button and it says emulating, everything is good, I have the checksum disabled by putting "AA" in the checksum id thingy, (technical term,,lol) I then hit download current bin to emulator and that went fine. I also clicked on verify emulation bin to current bin ID and it says, successful. As far as I know I have done everything I have read,,,,but when I make a change in MAF table #1 or even the MAF scaler table #1 to richen the idle mixture, then hit upload, it uploads but then nothing happens. I even fattened it up to the point where the car should flood and die, upload and nothing happens. Am I missing something? Larry.

 

After you change the value, are you hitting the "update" button that appears in the pop up box for the parameter you are working on? That should work.

Or are you going to the tool bar, clicking "tools", then "emulation", then "upload current bin etc"? I don't think this method will work, though I've never tried it, so it might...

 

I am going to tools, then clicking the upload current bin button because I thought emulation had to know what bin (tune) I had to start with before I started emulating. After that I am bringing up the box for MAF table 1 and making the changes then hitting the update button in the box I am working in,,,,but nothing happens, the BLM's stay the same etc.....I fatten this thing to a point that should be killing the engine, but nothing happens. I am sure I am missing something, a setting somewhere maybe? I have AA in the checksum thingy,,,,as I read where I needed that to emulate, but still nothing. Larry.

 

Tried a couple more times but for some reason it won't accept any real time changes. The box lights up green at the bottom of the screen and says it's emulating, I make my changes and hit upload, I recheck the box I made changes in and the numbers I plugged in are still there and stay there, but the car has no reaction what so ever.
I have got to be missing a step here somewhere. Is there any known problems trying to emulate with the 6e bin? Thanks for the help so far guys, Larry.

 

I'm stumped. Have you tried making any other changes to see if they are working? (Maybe raise your target idle to 1500 rpms for all temps and hit "update" to see if the idle comes up).

Maybe contact Craig and walk him through the steps you are performing. He'd obviously know if you are not doing something correctly.

It's probably something simple...

 

If it doesn't seem to take the live updates you could just save the whole bin and then upload it with the engine not running and try again.
At least you know the changes arein effect and should see a resultant change from them.
If there is still no change, I would suggest putting the values back and looking elswhere to fix the problem area.

 

I get the same problem quite often on the ECM bench with the latest TP 4.13 Beta with the comms port release fix. It happens at random but it happens quite a bit. It seems to be due to a memory leak. If I shut down other programs and TP and then re-open it works fine. I refuse to use TP and the emulator in the car. Together they are very unstable (read dangerous). Some people pass it off as a random error caused by unkown things and go on their way when in fact there is a reason for it.

The author of TP said that he was working on the problem. Which version of TP do you have? Some are worse than others in terms of the non-update.

 

I have the latest version from Moates, Tuner Pro RT.
The only thing I have running on this laptop is Tuner Pro RT. Nothing else to interfear that I am aware of.
You mentioned you refuse to use Tunerpro and emulate in the car. If so then how can you make tuning changes on the fly in real world driving conditions? That has me a little confused, one of the nice features that helped sell me on this whole "burn your own chip" kind of thing was the fact that you could make changes on the fly. This is the first I have heard that it's "dangerous"
Should I try it again? In order for this to work I would think the car has to be running on the tune that is in the laptop screen and not the chip that is still in the car, correct? Which is why you download the current bin into the emulator,,,am I thinking right? Which then overrides or bypasses the chip in the car? Correct me if I am wrong I am just trying to understand this a little more thinking that maybe I missed a step somewhere. Larry.