Pocket Programmer
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Banned
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,384
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Pocket Programmer
I read TRAXs article. And I want to buy EVERYTHING I need to burn chips right now!
My question is, I noticed there are adaptors available on the Pocket Programmer page. Will I need any of these?
I basically need an EXACT list of everything I need to buy .
Thanks
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91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
w/91 GTA rims,hood,gfx
Cold air ind. w/K&N, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm wires, fastchip, Bosch O2sensor, SLP headers & catback,short shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,160* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.
My question is, I noticed there are adaptors available on the Pocket Programmer page. Will I need any of these?
I basically need an EXACT list of everything I need to buy .
Thanks
------------------
91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
w/91 GTA rims,hood,gfx
Cold air ind. w/K&N, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm wires, fastchip, Bosch O2sensor, SLP headers & catback,short shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,160* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 980
Likes: 1
No adapters needed. You need:
Pocket programmer
Spare 27C256 EPROMS (order from Xtronics also)
UV Eraser
TunerCat with 8D definition file or WinBin
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92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported stock heads, XR270HR-10 cam, TES headers, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition components, #24 SVO injectors.
Best ET 13.3@107 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
Click here to see my car at Truspeed.org
Check out TruSpeed at http://www.truspeed.org
Check out the Bin Archive at http://www.truspeed.org/bins.html
Pocket programmer
Spare 27C256 EPROMS (order from Xtronics also)
UV Eraser
TunerCat with 8D definition file or WinBin
------------------
92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported stock heads, XR270HR-10 cam, TES headers, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition components, #24 SVO injectors.
Best ET 13.3@107 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
Click here to see my car at Truspeed.org
Check out TruSpeed at http://www.truspeed.org
Check out the Bin Archive at http://www.truspeed.org/bins.html
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 5
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I agree with the Blade's recommendation and use them also. I like TunerCat (especially for the SD ecm for the 8D eprom that we use). I also like the Pocket Programmer, espcially if you plan on using a notebook computer and I use the Datarase II UV eraser...all good equipment...no beefs or complaints.
As for the eproms, that depends on whether you plan to erase/burn onto your stock GM memcal or aftermarket memcal directly (then you need a 34 pin connector instead), or solder a ZIF socket onto your GM memcal or aftermarket memcal. If your aftermarket memcal has a ZIF socket already then you can just swap the eproms directly and just erase/program onto them directly...without any 34 pin connector.
If you do plan on erasing/programming directly onto the memcal, eventually they will get erased too many times and need to be replaced. At that time, you can solder in a ZIF socket and just replace the eproms directly. This is what I plan to do when I have erased/programmed onto my GM memcal "one time too many". But you can do it quite a few times...depending how long you leave the eprom in the UV eraser...15-20 minutes is generally the maximum amount of exposure necessary to erase them...but if you forget about it and leave it on all night, you may find that it is "permanently" erased and useless...at that point you must unsolder the "dead" eprom and you can resolder a ZIF socket onto it.
As for the eproms, that depends on whether you plan to erase/burn onto your stock GM memcal or aftermarket memcal directly (then you need a 34 pin connector instead), or solder a ZIF socket onto your GM memcal or aftermarket memcal. If your aftermarket memcal has a ZIF socket already then you can just swap the eproms directly and just erase/program onto them directly...without any 34 pin connector.
If you do plan on erasing/programming directly onto the memcal, eventually they will get erased too many times and need to be replaced. At that time, you can solder in a ZIF socket and just replace the eproms directly. This is what I plan to do when I have erased/programmed onto my GM memcal "one time too many". But you can do it quite a few times...depending how long you leave the eprom in the UV eraser...15-20 minutes is generally the maximum amount of exposure necessary to erase them...but if you forget about it and leave it on all night, you may find that it is "permanently" erased and useless...at that point you must unsolder the "dead" eprom and you can resolder a ZIF socket onto it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 2
From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
I went to the digikey website, and they had UV erasers that said they erase in 2 min? Is that legit?
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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 5
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
GMTech, the erasing time depends on the type of eprom itself. I am not an expert on the decoding of the codes associated on eproms (though I am learning a fair amount).
As I understand it the 27C256s (vs the 27256) is a CMOS type that requires a longer erasing time. Also, the distance you have the eprom from the UV light affects the erasing time. Right now, I am erasing/reburning straight to my GM memcal. The eprom on the memcal does not sit exactly in the holder as it say a seperate 27C256 eprom would. This is because of the lenght and "packaging" of the GM memcal itself, so it does not sit quite as close to the light as it should. That, and the fact that it uses the "C" type tends to make a GM memcal eprom require a little longer time (15-20 minutes) than if I had an ordinary 27256 eprom.
Hopefully, Traxion and Grumpy will reply and give additional information on the subject of erasing.
As I understand it the 27C256s (vs the 27256) is a CMOS type that requires a longer erasing time. Also, the distance you have the eprom from the UV light affects the erasing time. Right now, I am erasing/reburning straight to my GM memcal. The eprom on the memcal does not sit exactly in the holder as it say a seperate 27C256 eprom would. This is because of the lenght and "packaging" of the GM memcal itself, so it does not sit quite as close to the light as it should. That, and the fact that it uses the "C" type tends to make a GM memcal eprom require a little longer time (15-20 minutes) than if I had an ordinary 27256 eprom.
Hopefully, Traxion and Grumpy will reply and give additional information on the subject of erasing.
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