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Deciding on a WBO2...

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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:12 PM
  #1  
Dirtbik3r's Avatar
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
Deciding on a WBO2...

I'm hoping someone can clear up some confusion I'm having. This is what I want to do:

Hook up a WBO2 to my 165ecm (I have the modified bin) and datalog with it to see my afr changes.

WBO2 sensors are usually 5 wire sensors, right? What do the wire do? I'm guessing there needs to be a sensor and heater ground, and an output of some sort. I've done the reading. Could I just buy the 5wire bosch sensor on moates' site and splice it in? (Yes, I know you can't use the stock zirchonius NB ecm input) Is it the sensor ONLY I need to purchase if I'm using the aldl port to interpret the readings? I also hear you should leave your stock sensor connected and make a new bung... Point me in the right direction!

-What are lambda cables?
-What is the purpose of the integrated lc1 controller??????
-And why when I look at year+ ago posts, people complain about the costs of these sensor while I seem them all over the place for a lot cheaper?
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:15 PM
  #2  
3.8TransAM's Avatar
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Get the Innovate.

LM-1 if u use it on multiple cars(display is nice to have)

LC-1 setup if u use it with a laptop only and dont need the seperate display.

Also if u shop around you can find the sensors for the Innovate for under $40 a piece.

later
Jeremy
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:26 PM
  #3  
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From: Browns Town
Car: 86 Monte SS (730,$8D,G3,AP,4K,S_V4)
Engine: 406 Hyd Roller 236/242
Transmission: 700R4 HomeBrew, 2.4K stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi, 7.5 Soon to break
Its not just a sensor you wire up, so to speak.
A controller is needed to drive the sensor and obtain the reading of the o2 content. It calculates the output based on how much current it takes to run the sensor (as a very brief description)
You would wire the controller to power, ground then have analog output channel(s) and a ground for those.
There is also a separate heater ground for the high current.
The actual sensor "plugs" into the controller.
The LC-1 is hard to beat pricewise. I'm begining to see the light with mine now.
HTH
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 01:15 AM
  #4  
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From: garage
Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
Originally Posted by JP86SS
The LC-1 is hard to beat pricewise. I'm begining to see the light with mine now.
HTH
I was thinking of getting one for the truck. Ever had any problems with it? Like error codes and stuff?
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #5  
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From: Corona
Car: 92 Form, 91 Z28, 89 GTA, 86 Z28
Engine: BP383 vortech, BP383, 5.7 TPI, LG4
Transmission: 4L60e, 700R4, 700R4..
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 2.73
I've broken about 4 or 5 LM-1's. Displays (2), serial interfaces (1), power connections (easily repaired) (3), analog outs (also easily repaired) (1). But we're not nice to them. But yeah, the display scheme is nice for transients calibration, and the software is almost idiot-proof.
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 11:55 AM
  #6  
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From: Browns Town
Car: 86 Monte SS (730,$8D,G3,AP,4K,S_V4)
Engine: 406 Hyd Roller 236/242
Transmission: 700R4 HomeBrew, 2.4K stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi, 7.5 Soon to break
Originally Posted by junkcltr
I was thinking of getting one for the truck. Ever had any problems with it? Like error codes and stuff?
I habven't gotten any flash codes or errors, but had thought I killed the outputs. Outputs ok so I'm lucky I didn't with all the screwing around I've been doing.
I've read allot on how fragile they are to offset voltage transients during cranking etc. From what I gather the outputs do not tolerage much more than a 5 volt difference at any point on the original designs. I think they have added some protection but have not confirmed it. The post on Innovates site did not get a response for what s/n's were included.
Having ground offsets between the heater ground and the analog ground can cause greater than 5 volt difference and kill the outs. That seemed to be the major culprit. Not sure if they are protected if directly grounded.
Not going to intentionally try it to find out.
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 08:40 PM
  #7  
Dirtbik3r's Avatar
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
Originally Posted by JP86SS
Its not just a sensor you wire up, so to speak.
A controller is needed to drive the sensor and obtain the reading of the o2 content. It calculates the output based on how much current it takes to run the sensor (as a very brief description)
You would wire the controller to power, ground then have analog output channel(s) and a ground for those.
There is also a separate heater ground for the high current.
The actual sensor "plugs" into the controller.
The LC-1 is hard to beat pricewise. I'm begining to see the light with mine now.
HTH
Thanks for the info. But I'm not quite sure how others connected these wide band o2 sensors to the cars computer; not laptop. In my case, this would be the 1227165 ECM. I stated in my question above that I've read success stories in doing this. In the threads, a unused ecm input was used to read the data (I'm guessing from this controller) and sends it out as a log file to compare with maf, rpm, etc reading... Yes, I will be using my laptop, but planned on using the ALDL and not the sensor controller laptop thing. Got anything to add?

Please keep the Info coming. -Much appreciated.
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 09:06 PM
  #8  
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
The actual operating temp of the sensor element is about 2,000 dF.
Let it heat up too quick and the porclean breaks, too slow and it sensor gets coated with deposits and eventually quits working (early).
It takes a *fine* degree of heater control to do the above.
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 09:17 PM
  #9  
Dirtbik3r's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
Originally Posted by Grumpy
The actual operating temp of the sensor element is about 2,000 dF.
Let it heat up too quick and the porclean breaks, too slow and it sensor gets coated with deposits and eventually quits working (early).
It takes a *fine* degree of heater control to do the above.
So the controller controls mostly the heating aspect? This makes sense if I'm understanding this right. Thanks Grumpy.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 06:01 AM
  #10  
Grumpy's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 7,554
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally Posted by Dirtbik3r
So the controller controls mostly the heating aspect? This makes sense if I'm understanding this right. Thanks Grumpy.
Yes, the controller controls the heater portion of the WB, as well interupting the sensors output. In the case of the Honda sensor, there's an addition 2 pins for *reading* the calibration resistor.
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