A friend of mine burned me a custom chip and since then I have had two problems:
1. My SES light will come on after cruising at the same speed for a while (yes, code 32). It never did this before and I know he disabled egr check. But I can live with the light coming on every once in a while, but then...
2. At upper rpm's (4300+) my car dies and will not pull or shift to the next gear. It also never did this before.
For some reason I think he wanted to try to program that I had 19# injectors (one of his theories on why my car doesn't run corerectly). He might have left the 19# calibration on. Do you think this could explain the cutting out at high rpms? I just need to tell him something to help him have some idea on what is going wrong.
I know everyone is going to tell me to burn my own chip but I am broke and extremely busy right now. Hopefully I will be able to learn everything about DIY prom after this summer. But until then please try to help me out. Thanks.

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1990 Formula 350
*Hooker Headers
*Random Technology 3" Exhaust(no cat)
*Accel AFPR
*K&N
*Airfoil
*170* Thermostat
*Metco Lower Control Arms
w/ Lowering brackets
*F-Body Perf. Panhard Rod and Strut Tower Brace
*1999 16x8 Formula Wheels
*White Face Gauge Overlays

 

You said that someone would tell you to burn your own chip. I didn't want to let you down so ...

Burn your own chip

Anyhow, I would put a stock 350 chip in it (as long as you are running 22lb injectors) and see if that gets rid of the problems. IF that gets rid of the problems then you'll know that the custom chip is the problem.

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

 

How's that saying go? "You get what you pay for"!

I was getting the code 32 after about 5-20 minutes of running when I didn't erase my eprom quite long enough. It appeared to be erase properly when checked, programmed fine..etc. Just kept giving me a Code 32.

By slightly increasing the erase time of the eprom, it eliminated the code 32.

As for use 19# in the eprom when you have 22#s, you are going to running WAY TOO RICH. Having a lower injector constant than the injectors you are actually running will cause the injectors to have a longer pulse width (hence richer). Having a higher injector constant than your injectors will shorten the pulse width (hence leaner).

FYI, on my basically stock L98, I found that I had to increase my injector constant to 25#s as my car was running too rich all over. By increasing the injector constant to 25, I got closer to 128/128 perfect. I only had to adjust certain VE values then to get it perfect.

If you don't have a scan tool to monitor your engine to see what it wants, you are really shooting in the dark. I don't see how you can tell if the changes were good or bad for your engine without a scan tool, especially at part throttle.

 

I wouldn't suppose anyone has a stock 1990 350 chip I could buy or borrow just to figure out what is wrong? The chip I used to have was a hypertech and it ran like crap.
I can't seem to find one anywhere, not even at the dealer.
Anyhow, I am sure this has already been covered, but will I be able to burn my own chip? I can follow directions good but I have no background in programming or anything like that. Is it something anyone can learn, even an 18 year old? I read a lot of the Intro by Traxion and it does seem pretty complicated but possible. I just don't want to be stuck with $200 of equipment and no idea how to use it. Any words of encouragement would be appreciated.
Thanks.

------------------
1990 Formula 350
*Hooker Headers
*Random Technology 3" Exhaust(no cat)
*Accel AFPR
*K&N
*Airfoil
*170* Thermostat
*Metco Lower Control Arms
w/ Lowering brackets
*F-Body Perf. Panhard Rod and Strut Tower Brace
*1999 16x8 Formula Wheels
*White Face Gauge Overlays

 

Your dealer may not stock the chip, but the dealer here got the stock 88 chip I'm running from "Michigan". It was delivered in 2 days and cost under $40.

 

Here's a link to some 8d bins for your 730. I'm not sure which is the one for your 90 l98, but someone here will now. Once you find out which one just download it and get your friend to program straight to a blank eprom. That should get you back to stock, and you'll be able to see if the other eprom was faulty.
Good luck

whoops, here ya go
ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/bin_lib/1227730[This message has been edited by CanadianBeast (edited June 25, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by CanadianBeast (edited June 25, 2001).]

 

okay, sorry that linkk isn't working.

Try this ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/bin_lib/ then go to the

"1227730 727 01 A1 3E 46 51 55 6B 88 8D 96 D8"

folder and then the "8D 5.0 5.7s" folder, then you'll see the list of bins.

 

Anything special about chips from Michigan? Maybe I've been selling mine too cheaply?

 

thanks I'll try to get that info downloaded

------------------
1990 Formula 350
*Hooker Headers
*Random Technology 3" Exhaust(no cat)
*Accel AFPR
*K&N
*Airfoil
*170* Thermostat
*Metco Lower Control Arms
w/ Lowering brackets
*F-Body Perf. Panhard Rod and Strut Tower Brace
*1999 16x8 Formula Wheels
*White Face Gauge Overlays