Guys,
I just put the ARAP bin along with some tweaks to it(bigger injectors, -egr, blah blah). Anyways, the car runs a hell of alot better of course. But whenever i push the throttle it stays at a high rpm, like 2000+ and then will sometimes come right back down to 8-900 rpms where it should idle. The idle a little eratic, 800-1000. Is there anything in the prom that would adjust this? or is it maybe something with the TPS(which worked fine when doing the volt test on it going from idle to WOT) or maybe something screwed up with my IAC?
I've posted this in both DIY prom and General tech.

Thanks,

Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

 

I to had the eratic idling with the ARAP bin and was about to give up on it. After many hours of reading through old posts and comparing many different $6E bins I believe that I have cured my eratic idling. I played with the EGR enable and the EGR duty cycle vs LV8 and rpm. I have a steady idle and no more high idle after decelerating and coming to a stop.The ARAP bin is the best starting point bin for the $6E. This is great, I feel like I am realy starting to make big improvements in in my PROM burning. I want to thank all you guys for your help and encouragement to push on and TRY different things. The reason I brought this old post to the top is to show other members less experienced than me(I am very inexperienced) keep on working at it don't giveup and you will be reworded with better performance. Sorry about the rambleing on but I feel great.

(Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day, but teach a man to fish and he will eat for life)
Tom

 

Karl Hunter was telling me that he too found that he did not like the way the ARAP controlled the EGR and on his car, it resulted in driveability issues with the way the EGR was going on/off.

Karl took all of the tables and put them on a regular BIN for his 89 1LE MAF car and found it worked great. It had all the performance of the ARAP but the better driveability of his regular BIN with the way the EGR was controlled.

Separately, I was helping a friend with his 383 Miniram MAF car and initially we had great difficulty with the idle too. He would hook it to a timing light (with the ESC wire disconnected) and the light was jumping all over the place. Turns out his MSD unit was bad. Got a new MSD unit, and it fixed the problem.

Two things to consider.

 

I have been burning less than a month.But I have burned maybe 75+ times.I think glen is right in the money.But I would use a stock 89 bin first.If the problem goes away then import the arap tables.The arap bin is too radical for my mild setup.So I use the 89 bin.BUT the 87 gta spark advance vs rpm vs load table is a better starting point for me.So I just import it into my 89 bin.Has anyone else tried the 87 gta spark table?

 

Brendan, I will assume that you have set the IAC as per the tech article and you have set the IAC Steps Position (not just the steps, but the actual position) in the eprom.

Also, something Bruce mentioned in another post, try adjusting your Inj PW Adjustment based on Battery Volt. I have underdrive pullies and my fans set to kick on just a few degrees C above the typcial operating range of my T-stat. So, I would often get a lower Voltage rating while Idling. Adjusting the Inj PW vs Battery Voltage helped resolve idling issues.

 

Glenn, thanks for the suggestions. This most was quite some time ago. I have long since went to a 730 SD setup. Ever since the 730 swap the idle has been damm near perfect and haven't had a problem since, somebody must have been browsing the archives and found this old post.

Thanks for the help though.
Oh, remember me saying the number 6 cylinder wasn't firing? Well I finally got the motor out and apart to find out what was going on.
I know this is a bit off topic but go to www.geocities.com/leirch_/teardown

click on the 110201 folder and check out the 12th picture.


Brendan

 

I want to help my idle (hasn't been satisfactory ever).

Right now, the "Low" EGR on is at 32 kPa and the "High" EGR on is at 38 kPa.

My van idles around 30-35. Is there a range where I could set the EGR to make it more stabile?

Is this saying that the EGR opertates between 32 and 38 kPa? If so, that means it may be turning on and off while I'm idling.

[This message has been edited by V8Astro Captain (edited November 04, 2001).]

 

Holy crap! Cylinders 6 and 8 are at the opposite ends of the spectrum there aren't they? Any idea what was causing it?

 

The previous owner put an aftermarket distributor in, I don't know if he just didn't get it in all the way or what..but the distro gear got sheared off and lets just say alot of shavings got into the oil.. I found several grooves on a few of the main and rod bearings, everytime I changed the oil(20000miles worth) I had more shavings on the magnetic oil drain plug)...

Ok this is off topic, i need to quit replying about my dead 350