Hello all,
I switched to 6E from 32b in my 305 87 Camaro and ever since then the car does not always start very easily. Every now and then it will fire up immediately, and then another time it will take around 5 seconds or longer to fire up. I may be wrong, but it seems to start easier in the cold, than on the warmer days. It always starts eventually, and it runs good and strong once running, it's just some of the start ups are nasty.

Can anyone give me a ballpark idea of where to start? Thank yas.
-Jason

 

$6E is programmed richer at startup because it doesn't use the 9th injector.

perhaps your 305 is getting hit with too much fuel at startup now. try unplugging the connector for the 9th injector and see how she does? When it takes a few seconds to start up on a warmer day, do you get a minor puff of black smoke?

 

The 9th injector is unplugged already. It certainly seems to start better in the cold than in the heat though. It does run slightly rich during cruise, but not too bad. No puff of black smoke on warm days.

 

one other thought off hand. presuming that the bin is otherwise stock and that you have a stock engine, are you running 305 bin or a 350 bin?

I converted my fathers' 88 350 IROC over to $6E and there were no adverse affects on starting.

 

Crank Fuel is off for the first 8 reference pulses from teh distributer if the bin is stock..


mine fires up immediately when cold, when it's warmed up, it's either instant or 1 second of cranking.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=nvp3osWKQ4o

 

Have you tried to make any changes? First things first, Set base timing, and look at the warm IAC counts at idle. Also, pull a few plugs to see if they are in good condition. Then, during one of the long cranks, key off before it starts and pull a plug - if dry or wet, or fouled. Do you have a timing light? Use it to ensure sparking during those bad starts. If the spark plugs are dry, put a noid light on the injectors, and see if they are firing. If wet, put a fuel pressure gauge on, and build pressure, and clamp off the supply and return (without damaging the lines), to check for leaky inj's. Then start playing with the crank PWs. Is it stock injectors? If the injectors are not the stock size for the calibration, you should adjust the crank PWs proportionately, roughly.

Can also try holding the throttle open a little bit during the long cranks to see if it helps or not. Adjust Crank PWs if it's a big help. IAC shouldn't really need any big difference from stock, as long as min-air is set correctly.

 

Thanks guys. I will do a little more trouble shooting based on the information below. I will see if I can't pin point it down a little more.

 

not sure which bin you're running however i recently did the same switch from a 32B ABWN to a 6E ARAP ( cold start switch now unplugged) on my L98 w/ Vette heads and noticed the motor cranks longer w/ 6E but only when warm. Adjusting the Cranking pulse width vs Coolant temp table by upping the values in the warmer temp ranges has helped. also upped the cranking PW multiplier vs reference pulse for the first 8 pulses which are set to zero in all the 6E code i've seen.

 

So did that pretty much fix it Michelob?

I stuck a fuel pressure gauge on there and noticed the pressure sunk way down after I turn it off. Takes maybe 10 minutes for the pressure to sink to 21psi. I think this might be part of my problem too, leaky fuel injectors or something.

 

yeah richening the cranking tables worked on mine. i don't know if that's ok or not that your fuel psi leaks down so fast but regardless i wouldn't hesitate to play around w/ those cranking tables...could be an easy fix vs tearing into the fuel injection system. there's numerous postings in the archives on long crank and also hot start problems with 6e.
i had to look it up since i never had a problem w/ the original 32B code on startup. also comparing the two shows 32B is richer on startup.