Ok My ve's are in good shape now and I think I got the timing fairly good as well!! Now Im just wondering should I try running in open loop??? Is that the preferd way for a mild performance engine??? Also wondering if open loop is going to affect how the engine runs/temp/timing/power etc??? Any help or thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated

 

I guess we're kind of tuning opposites: I have mine in open loop for tuning and I'm not sure if I should switch back to closed loop.

I wish I could help you.

 

OK thanks for the reply!! I thought that you would not get any blm readings if you were in open loop??? If that is the case how do you tune without a wideband?? If you can get blm#'s in open loop then maybe it time for me to try that??

 

Oh, I'm using a wideband. In my opinion, if you're going to tune WOT at all, get a wideband. I tried with the narrow band thinking "how far off could it possibly be?". You'd be surprised. It's also much faster than tuning with the narrow band, especially when using the EBL.

 

FOr some reason, my NB O2 loves to pull fuel below 2k. I'm running open loop all the time now, big difference in power (more with O/L). When in closed loop, I watch the WB O2 read 15.4-15.6 which the BLM drops to 108-110. I already messed with the voltages, no success.
Anyway, I have more power in O/L and driving around in O/L has given me a chance to lock down the VE and AE. No highway mode, but whatever.

 

So then you can drive around in open loop and still record what the ve's are doing?? Is that correct?? I would think that would make getting the blm/ve table's in line a little easier do to the job, do to the o2 not switching the air/fuel around?? Can I assume that this will work?/ THanks for the help guys!!!

 

Pretty much. Make the closed loop temp enable like 120 deg C so it can't go into CL, use the WB O2 to log AFR, make correction, repeat. Do you have a WB O2?
Try to stay out of AE as much as possible.

 

No I dont have a WB yet, but I guess that is going to be my next financial investment?? Sounds like it is a necassaty?? Just wondering what brand you guy's are using and what you think would be a good way to go??

 

I use the LC-1 since it was the cheapest. Hopefully someone that has used a few different models can answer you since it's hard to say what is the "best" if you've only used one. I am happy with mine though.

 

I can only speak for the Zeitronix ZT-2...works great.

 

Thanks again I will have to see what kind of A deal I can get through the shop rep's!! LOL

 

a side note- when I was on the dyno last month, my WB was reading 1.0 more rich across the board than the dyno's O2. weird. The guy I was working with told me that every WB will read different...WTF is that about?
Just my experience so far...seems like a pretty big difference