This is all completely new to me. i was going to have a chip burned for my new 383 in my 92 silverado but decided to try this EBL.

I know nothing about anything about this EBL and tuning.

I am a computer engineer tho so i like to learn and pick things up pretty quickly, its just hard for me to learn by reading, i've always been hands on.

So far i have learned how to do the VE learn but thats it. i have done 4 VE learns and am going to do more after i am done with this.

My questions is what do i do after i do a bunch of VE learns? Right now the truck idles really really bad. Idles like there is a huge cam in it and only has a 224/234 duration and .465/.468 lift.

What can i do to get it to idle better? run more VE learns at idle?

besides running Ve learns i know nothing.

would it help you guys if i post some logs at idle? i need lots of help i know and i need everything spelled out as far as what to do.....step by step

if you need anymore info to help me let me know and i will get it for you.

 

Get tunerpro, and if you got the $$ invest in a wideband O2 sensor.

 

have tuner pro so i am that far. i am saving for a innovative LC-1 and should have it within 2 or 3 weeks

 

Well can we presume that you have all the things that should be initially set up done?? like the injector BPC and the CI displacement correct for the 383 and so on and so forth??? also see if you have IDLSA checked. That puts the idle spark advance higher then what is on the spark advance table......

 

Yes i have figured out the BPC vs VAC using the spreadsheet on the CD from Rbob.

Where is the IDLSA, in tuner pro? and if so where at in tuner pro? The constants/ scalars, flags/switches or tables/functions? i looked thru them all and didnt see any that had IDLSA in them. What does it say exactly for the name? sorry if im making this difficult.

 

IDLSA = Idle Spark Advance

Quote: "My questions is what do i do after i do a bunch of VE learns? Right now the truck idles really really bad. Idles like there is a huge cam in it and only has a 224/234 duration and .465/.468 lift."

First you need to rule out a vacuum leak.

After that do a Whats Up and take a look at the log of idle. Check the spark advance during idle. Is it stable(20-24 SA) or is it moving?

Are you idleing in open loop or closed loop? Is idle in OL better than closed befor it hits operating temps(160-170F)? is it falling out of CL idle back to OL?

Do you see a normal 02 voltage swing back forth as it should be

Is the fueling pulse width stable at idle or does it fluctuate? Note two columns synch and asynch PW.

Are the IAC counts at idle stable? What are they showing?

All the above should be stable. I have my tune set up with zero IAC steps at my commanded idle. Idle speed is actually set then by throttle stop screw. If idle falls below desired idle stall saver catches and IAC opens 1-5 or so steps.

 

That is all a lot to take in but when i get my new usb to serial adapter monday i will be sure to check all them and let all you know. i did notice that on the WUD at idle everything seemed to be jumping around everywhere. not sure what values exactly but i will take note next time.

until then what is the best way to check for a vacuum leak? i've been told to spray starting fluid around the engine bay and if the engine revs higher there is a leak. Anybody have a better way? i am very open to suggestions.

Thanks

 

starting fluid as in ether? I guess it would work. It may be too volatile? I used spray carb cleaner. I heard propane also can be used. You would spray at the edge of gaskets as I am sure you are aware.

 

yea ether is what i am talking about. didnt know what you guys would know it as here. my dad use to use it back in the day, he says that the engine revs higher if it gets in anywhere. so i am guessing that is what i want to happen. Carb cleaner would work if it is flammable correct? i tried to light my carb cleaner on fire and it wouldnt. i thought it was all flammable.

and i didnt know to spray it at the edge of gaskets so thank you for that tidbit of information.

 

carb cleaner not flamable? I never thought to light it up? I wonder now?

 

i checked for vacuum leaks and as far as i can tell there are no leaks anywhere. i sprayed everywhere and did not get any higher engine revs then normal.

 

check the ports on TBI. I had a nipple on one that was badly cracked and when I replaced it idle rpm dropped 100. same on vac lines. replace if they are dried out.

that erratic idle has plagued us all one time or another. Your WU datalogs should produce some answers.

 

I have been known to use it in place of starting fluid when I have none.

 

i will check all my vacuum lines in the morning. there really arent that many tho that i can see. The main one is the one coming from the brake booster correct? the other vacuum lines just go to sensors and what not correct?

 

Did a vacuum leak, as far as i can tell there is no vacuum leak.

took a look at a log at idle, it moving between 28 and 33. stays on 29 most of the time but it does jump between those values.

it is idling in open loop, i cant get it to closed loop because the o2 reading stay right around 500mV.

fueling pulse width fluctuates from 3.2 mS to almost 5 mS. that is sPW. aPW stays at 0.

Iac counts at idle jump between 137 and 160.

Can anyone help me figure out what my problem is as none of this really seems normal. everything seems to be jumping around a bit.

 

28-33 is I assume spark adv. I believe it varying is due to it moving around in SA cells. I idle 800 rpms at 38 MAP. So I flattened the surrounding cells to all be the same at 21 dSA. Now I also have a commanded SA for idle. I believe it is a flag that is checked. so it is locked at my SA of 21 as long as the ECU seens my TPS at zero.. Having the SA change by 5 may or may not contribute to issues. SA will affect idle vacuum. I think most of us are 20-24 SA for idle.

Idleing in OL cannot hurt. Maybe the .bin is locked to idle OL. Or possibly the 02 sensor is not getting up to temp at idle. Or sensor is defective.

sPW moving is most likely due to RPMs changing.

IAC counts that high? WOW 137-160 at idle? There is a stall saver that will open the IAC and add fuel. Look at stall saver settings. I would suggest reducing them. when the coolant temps are high enough 160-190 F I would set IAC steps to zero for that temp and rely on throttle stop screw to set idle speed.

Fuel pressure. do you have a gauge set up. If so is it steady? 3.2 msec -5 msec seems OK for fueling. < 1.0 is too low.

Possibly your VE in the idle cells and around could use more fuel. You are OL so no correction going on. I woul add 15% more fuel in cells at around idle.

 

i just tried a different calibration and it seems to be working a little bit better but still really far from perfect.

is it possible to post a log on here so you all can see it and tell me what i need to do?

i do not have a fuel pressure gauge