ok i am new to burning so i need a better understanding of what needs to change for different upgrades.for example
if i change from a 52 mm throttle body to a 58mm throttle body or upgrade the intake to allow more air flow. or if i upgrade the cam , bore or stroke the engine whats is changed in the .bin or how can i tell whats changes i need to make to get the calbration right
i am a rookie learning about burning.

 

You can search and find alot of info. Don't get overwhelmed, it seems like an impossible feat with all the changes that can be made but in reality alot of things you will never need to change. What year is your car? MAF or Speed Density? Once you know what mods you are making for sure (like which heads and which cam and such), members here can help you get a good base tune to start with and then help you dial it in from there.

 

the engine is a 350 tpi with 92 model speed density camaro with 700r4 Lobe center angle is 113 , durations @.050lift is 230 intake ,236 exhaust valve timing @0.006 lift
Open intake 31 btdc close abdc 96
Exhaust open 81 bbdc 27 atdc
Comp cam part number 12-467-8(10) grind number 280xfi hr13

and moding the throttle body to 58mm , now with this what do i need to change ?

 

Well, I have never messed with Speed Density so I can't help alot but I'm sure someone who has will chime in. If you were a MAF car I could help a little more as I have spent literally hundreds of hours in the past few weeks learning all this and burning dozens and dozens of chips. I think with SD you have VE tables you will need to play with to get the blms where you want them (around 128). You will need to datalog to see what is going on, and I suggest a wideband 02 so you can get the WOT AFR nailed. You can likely download a .bin file, like the AJUP I think for your setup (don't quote me on which one for SD), and it will be a much better starting point than your stock tune.

I might add that your cam is huge for a TPI intake. If it isn't already installed I'd suggest dropping down to a 220 intake duration cam. If it is installed I'd suggest a Holley Stealth Ram intake and a 2800 stall converter.

 

ok the wideband o2 do yu hapeen to know the part number. if not i can see if i can look them up, just a little hard to call places or people (in iraq) at the moment

 

i am using an AEM gauge the wide band takes the place of the stock o2 and the gauge has an output to send a narrow band signal to the ecu so you dont have to install a 2nd bung in the exhaust plus the w/b is much more accurate and is heated so this helps the ecu to be more accurate AEM part #4100 $218 at summit racing

 

I use the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 with gauge. I love it. The Innovate has a wideband output to feed the gauge, a narrowband output to feed the computer, and you can datalog air fuel ratios with it. Very similar to the AEM that spacgost79 posted about. You would be very happy with either one.

 

thanks guy i bought one waiting for it to get in , bought the aem one now i need to learn how to use it.
space how much horse you got with the afr heads

 

honstly when i got the car running(about 3yrs ago) i modified my stock tune with just the basics to get the car running it is by no means tunned yet! you see i was in the proccess of buying a house and the car was running maybe a month and deal went through so the car got stuck in the garage and really didnt have time to play with it. now i have been in the house for 3yrs and got all my big house projects done and i FINNALLY get to play with the car, i can tell you that it is on the lean side and i just recently started to tune the maf table #1 witch is your idle and off idle table. so i have no HP numbers brag about. but a buddy of mine has the same heads and cam in a low compession short block with a wieand 142 mini blower with a carb and he pulled 400hp and 500ftlbs at the rear wheels on an 80 trans am so with high compression and properly tuned fuel injection good numbesr should not be too hard to get!

 

let me know more about her when your done getting her tuned up

 

Just a few notes from my experience to get you in the right direction,

• To get the cam to idle better you will "probably" need to adjust the o2 constants about 50 mV to compensate for the overlap letting some air through. Air will read lean and cause extra fuel to be added that will make it run rich and smell bad.
• VE tables will obviously need some work because they are modeled from the stock cam profile and the new can has a higher operating RPM.
• Same goes for the spark table, This will be trial and Knock error testing to find the best running.
• Closed throttle spark table "may" need some spark as well as turning up the idle speed to aprox 800 rpm.
• The 58mm TB "may" have AE issues because you will be letting more air in at smaller movements so that will need to be increased to get a bit more fuel. There are other things that can be effected by this as well as your TV cable will not be pulling "as much" as previously because you don't move the throttle as much. All things can have effects on others so try to keep that in mind.

These are the common things but only driving the car and tweaking will reveal just how much change is needed.
See the tuning guide in the stickys too, lots of good info on bigger cam and AE corrections.