OK

After 8 months of trial and error, tons of readings, and probably 250 or so chip burns over my truck I have ended up with far more questions than answers. I am so close to have a permanet brain damage that have really consider to ask for this

Would someone in this forum to teach me step by step on how prom tunning my truck?

Really have read so much at the point that maybe have so many so stupid questions that have polute my brain.....

if someone would helpme will have at the end a real Mexican Tequila Botle for you enjoy.

So pleas, someone to guideme step by step.

Regards
Ray

 

I hear you on the Tequila. I have 2 unopened bottles at home that I am fearfull to open as it is the high end stuff.

Anyway first thing in learning dataloging. What datalog software and hardware will you use? winALDL and TunerproRT are popular.

And as you are aware you need to study and understand (in part) the stickies above.

also read at TBI sticky "free tune".

 

Heck, I got my prom stuff yesterday and I can't even hook it up. TunerPro RT says that I don't have the ALDL connected when I do. Go figure that one out. Also, I have read everything I can to try and learn how to play with the switches and flags, like fan temps, top speed limiters, disabling EGR and the other little things, but I am not computer smart by any sense of the word.

I guess my 89 formy should be swapped from TPI to Carb and make things a whole lot easier.

 

I feel your pain I was there once. BUT it was a rewarding chalange. Thre are numerours posts on getting RT to read the ALDL cable. I use EBL so cant offer a fix. But make sure the com ports are aligned. Read the com port for cable with it hooked up to laptop. Then I recall it needs to match TP.

Yes fan temp on and EGR diable are two of the areas to dabble. Top speed limit set to 65 so you dont speed.

 

Once again, I really have no idea what you are talking about, I'm not being rude, but I literally have the computer knowledge of a 2nd grader. I'm not joking. I am also foreign so I don't know if that ads to it or something.

Also what are com ports, how do I check alignments, and what is TP and please don't say toilet paper! Also I can't find the right link to get the aldl to connect, it is in computer language. If you have nerves of steel and don't mind helping a COMPLETE noob to computers and tuning, please help me out.

 

Ah, TP is tuner pro, got it. I have the APU 1 package and can't get it to work for me, what am I doing wrong? I got it to see that I'm using COM 14 on my laptop, I loaded the ads for 89 formy, and I turn the key to on but still nada, can someone please help?

 

I got the ALDL connected but under preferences, test for valid cable using settings, it says "Cable not found or not functioning (tested at 8192 baud) can anyone explain what I'm doing wrong? I am confused and I can't get this thing to work. Maybe I should put it away for a few days and come back to it later, when I feel like wasting another 3 hours trying to figure this stuff out!

 

Ray, definately check out one of grumpys 101 write ups in the stickies of this section. It is frustrating, I feel like I continuosly make one step forward and two steps back all of the time. I continually find mechanical issues that I have overlooked vacuum leaks etc, and last night I noticed a misfire and popped the hood when it was dark and all of my plug wires were leaking. So long story short triple check there is something else holding you back.
Perhaps the most frustrating to me is the lack of agreement between the blms and what my wideband is reading. I have learned to ignore the wideband readings in cruise and let the blms do there thing. I only use the wb when I am wot tunining.

I also found that when I first started tuning my fuel tables were so far off it would barely run in closed loop. So I disabled close loop and tuned in open loop with my wideband trying to get 14.7 to 1 across the board. Once I was close I went back to closed loop and fine tuned using the blms, but as stated above the blms don't match up with the wb but the truck feels good.
I also found that it was much easier to tune the fuel tables once I had enough spark. I started off being too scared to add spark, but you just gotta do it. Don't be too scared about the ecm detecting knock. Use your ears and listen for it, and check plugs often for speckles on the plug. Do a searcg for plug reading on google and you will find some good things. Remember lean and too much spark at high rpms are where catastrophy happens, work with sufficient fuel at cruise and add timing at low rpms and map.

 

Oh yah, I'm at 500 tunes and stil learning. Keep working at it your just about to start making some good strides.
For the person with aldl issues make sure you jave the necessary drivers for your hardware.

 

OOK guys, fist I would like to say thanks for your replys.

Here is a brief description of what I have done and what I have noticed, please give me you comments.

1.- Have a LM1 WBO2 as a reference.
2.- Have 61 lb ijectors set ti 22 psi, so constant has been calculated to 82.5 lb.
3.- Mecanical timming set 4 advance.
4.- Long tube headers with 1 wire O2, O2 reading are OK, no leack.
5.- Tunning for BLM´s close to 128 open loop and AE tps and AE MAP set to 0
6.- Tunning for BLMS´s close to 128 close loop and SE tps and SE MAP set to 0
7.- Tunning for AE TPS close to 12.0 AFR and TPS treshold at 30%
8.- Tunning for AE MAP (I do not know how to in this case).

If try to tunne with the BLM´s truck runs more or less rich all the time, hence fuel consumption sucks. Got spark plug reading rich. AF close to 13.5. Truck feels more or less OK and BLM´s are close to 128.

If try to tunne for 14.7 with WBO2 truck gots very rought idling, is powerless and BLM´s goes close to 135 - 140 range.

I really do not know weather if O2 AFR is calibrated to other than 14.7 in the truck or why I am getting so much difference between O2 and WBO2.

Important thing here is I am living 2250 m over sea level. Is there any calibration need to perform on BARO tables that may be responsible for the O2 deviations?

Regards
Ray

 

I would start by swapping to a 3 wire heated O2 sensor. The single wire sensor may just be too far away to stay hot enough to provide accurate readings.

I just went through something similar with my buddys camaro, that had long tube headers in it.....Kept chasing my tail tune wise until we decided to start pulling plugs. Once we saw the O2 was as black as the plugs, we swapped in a heated o2 and stuff started to make sense.

good luck

-jason

 

I would also second the heated 02. That is the first thing that came to my mind. I also had tip-in problems when I was trying to use the 350 injectors at high pressure. I would watch my fuel pressure drop from 25 to like ten when ae would kick in, even in nuetral. Now I am running the 454 injectors and the pressure is constant 18 under all circumstances.

I do think that the first step would be to get a heated o2. You can even configure your wb to use one of the outputs as a nb, then you wouldn't need to purchase another o2 as your wb is heated.

 

Dont feel bad others have same issues. I searched TP site and found no step-step instructions. But I am confident this has been covered by other users with same issues. I will say this comes up every other month here. I would search Tunerpro + cable or something similar. Consider looking at threads that Magnus is a contributor.

I use EBL to datalog so cannot be of much help......

 

Easiest way to get logging with the APU1 is to set the outboard switch to the "outer" position.
This is pass through mode and acts like a normal serial cable.

Plug in the USB.
Go to device manager in windows. (control panel/system/device manager)
Open the "ports" item and find the port number that the device is plugged into.
While in there, double click the port number and go to the "Advanced tab"
Find the "latency" item and set it to 1. Save and Exit device manager all the way.

Go into TunerPro.
Go to Preferences.
Set the parameters to a regular "serial cable" and port not AutoProm at this point.
Set the comm port number as you found it in Device manager.
Save and exit preferences.

Connect to your car and try it.
Should read IF you have the correct ADS file loaded.
(Aquition menu, load definition) if you haven't done that yet.

Once this works as a std serial cable you can go an try to do emulation as the AutoProm.
If none of that works, check that you have a wire in pin E and or M in your cars ALDL connector.
If all looks good, you may have a bad USB cable, try another one.
They are just std cables and do sometimes just fail from bending etc.
HTH

 

jp86ss, thanks! I got everything working now, your instructions should be a sticky and label it for noobs to computers and proms! I now have a new problem that I'll research. When the car is running with the aldl cable plugged in, the Block Learn Memory seems to be too high and out of range. It kind of hops around and sometimes, for a brief instant, it gets in range and then turns red and skyrockets. Time for more searching and my buddy, google. Thanks again.

 

You are seeing exactly what you should see now.
Your spark and fuel are not "tuned" for your application.
Don't bother too much with Google, It will keep pointing you back here

Look up in the DIY_PROM sticky called the "Guide Book".
Look at the Tuning "Part throttle" entries.

 

Um, yeah, that's assuming you know how to hookup the burner. Remember, I literally have the computer knowledge of a second grader, and I am still nervous about F'ing something up and I am searching for a step by step description of how to hookup the burner and get started. Any help that anyone can help me with would be good.

 

What is the minimum BPW that a TBI injector should work?
Have noticed several BPW minor to 0.5 mostly at idle.

Ninimum Asyc BPW is set to 0.24

Should I then reduce fuel pressure to increase minimum BPW and keep it under control?

Maximum logged BPW so far is 3.94 @ 2000 rpm and 75 KPA and 18.28 degrees.

Regards
Ray

 

I am around 1.90-2.00 msec in my logs at idle. 80lbs at 11.5 lbs FP. I would say <1.5 they get flaky. I do not run asynch. locked at synch. I am not familiar with that number .24 for BPW. But I presume if it gets too low it will flip to Asynch. Same as for PE if cannot attain commanded A/F it flips asynch. I think the ceiling on maximum PW is around 7.0 msec. This is discussed in thread "free tune" in stickies. A must read. You should set your FP so as to allow no more that 90% duty cycle(7.0 sec) I believe. IOW you set for WOT rather than idle. If idle is then an issue you can address with other fixes. I think usec=msec (not sure)??

 

What the advantage of running synch all the time?

 

I really dont need a-synch as I have large injectors (80lbs @ 19 lbs FP). Also when in synch, as we generally are, supposedly (I may be wrong on this) flips to a-synch when idle PW drops below a certain level. That happened to me due to above inj/fp. Idle was funky as it flipped back/forth synch/asynch trying to hold a low pulse width for idle. Now if injectors are smaller sized and you need more AE/PE it a-synch rather than firing injs every other reference pulse(left right left right) it fires both at same time doubling fuel supply .