So after installing my AFR 195 heads and slapping it all back together I figured it was time to tune the computer properly. the cam is XFI268 and coupled with these AFR 195s, there is no way in hell the stock prom knows what's going on. Also because of budget constraints I've opted to keep the stock TPI(hopefully that doesn't bite me in the butt).

I'm running a stock ARAP bin and $6e on a '165 ECM.
So far the only mods I've made are as follows:
-Disabled EGR because I've installed an EGR block-off so i changed the constant.
-Changed injector constant to try and achieve close to 128blm at part throttle.
-Disabled VATS
-Slightly bumped the idle.
-Slightly Changed fan on/off temps.

I've also installed a 3wire heated o2 sensor to make life easier.
Now I decided to change the inj constant to get close to 128blm at part throttle because idle seems to be a different beast. Right now at throttle i'm under 128, maybe near 122 or so and its pretty steady. But when i come down to idle it goes lean, around 140. I figured I would fix one situation instead of all the part throttle situations. I'm about to start changing things within the MAF tables, but TunerproRT doesn't seem to report MAF voltage in the virtual dash. All I see is "MASSAIRFLOW" listed in grams and "MAF raw input" listed as integers and no units. Is there a way to have it show maf voltage so i can correspond where it needs fueling?

thanks a ton

 

IIRC, the MAF voltage isn't in the data stream. However, head up to the Tuning Guide book sticky for the MAF miscellanea link. In there I describe how to put the MAF voltage into the data stream.

Also note that if you changed injectors. Then some tweaks on the injector compensation tables can go a long way.

RBob.

 

Thanks RBob! I did indeed change the injectors from the stock ones to 24lb ford SVO. How do the injector compensation tables work? I'll do a search right now to see if I can find some info.

 

In my experience the way to tune MAF is to use correct injector size constants and tune MAF tables if needed.....
Most of the time with a cam/heads swap on any motor combo, table 1 MAF is where you need to change things for idle air fuel. Injectors is global change and not really what you want to do.

For idle tuning, note what the motor is idling at in Grams/Sec. Say its 11.0 grams/sec but the BLM is showing abit lean...140 BLM. Go into your table 1 MAF table and adjust the gram/sec flows in the voltage region that contains 11.0 gram/sec.

In a stock ARAP bin, that 11.0 g/s is between .91 and 1.1 volts. Those values are 10.87 and 13.93 respectively. What you would want to do is increase both values slightly so that it will idle with MORE grams/sec to increase fuel to make BLM near 128 again.

Make the .91 value say... 11.2 grams/sec and the 1.10 volts value say 14.2. It should idle somewhere higher than 11.0 and give it more fuel.

Thats assuming its in CLOSED loop.

Open loop has other parameters to adjust idle air fuel.

Now that cam I dont expect to really fool O2 sensors but I seen a car idle at 750 rpm rock steady with a 280xfi cam on a 350 and air fuel ratio gauge says its over 18 to 1 air fuel. SUPER LEAN. I'd have to check the BLM values for that but they were showing abit lean I do believe. Sometimes a cam with overlap will fool the o2 sensor into thinking a motor is abit leaner than it is in the chamber. Overlap will leak some fresh intake air charge into the exhaust and show LEAN, but its not.

So in a sense, give the motor what it wants and what makes it happy! IF it likes idling with higher BLM's and isnt overheating or acting funny, leave it be. Check spark plugs and if they arent super white, then you dont need to worry.

 

Injector compensation tables like the base pulsewidth vs battery voltage table helps with larger injectors but 24 lb injectors shouldnt need much help over stock 350 tables since they used 22 lb injectors.

 

Thanks Orr! Ok I'll be adjusting those values to see what happens with the idle BLM. You're right about 750rpm, that's where mine tends to idle and it seems very solid. This should even help it out a bit, ill report results tommorow.

 

Quick question, Now that I have disabled EGR in the chip and installed a blockoff plate, can i remove this EGR solenoid safely and cap the vacuum tube on the throttle body? Would the computer throw a code if i unplugged it?

 

Yeah I think that is used for EGR as well as cruise control vacuum but I"m not sure. Just trace the lines and see where they go. IF they are used for both, just run the one line back to the manifold somewhere.

 

Ok cool, i removed that EGR solenoid and plugged the vacuum tube under the throttle body, all was well and it ran fine. Also I did what you suggested Orr and increased the grams/sec where I was idling around the 8.43 mark. That caused the idle to be MUCH closer to 128, usually somewhere around 126 or so. The rest of part throttle is also slightly rich, and on the highway under more throttle it goes to 115 sometimes, so ill have to tweak that.

But so far I took it onto the highway tonight and it felt great! even just with a mostly stock ARAP bin, she has much more throttle response and it's definitely quicker than before. I can only imagine how it'll be once the WOT gets fine tuned, along with my cruising.

 

ARAP part throttle tuning is pretty aggressive, has high spark, mostly of the time the car will run in the 41 deg range for timing. Some cars that is ok. Just datalog and watch to see if it pulls any timing or has knock counts. Definately a premium fuel tune.

WOT timing is ok in the 35-36 deg range. AFR's will like 32-36 deg, but most I've seen seem to hang around 34 deg for best power. (new eliminator heads). Older designs will take abit more timing. I've dyno'd mine from 34 to 39 and track tested the same, and it loved lower timing. I left it at 34 deg at the final pull on the dyno.

 

I see. Well it wasn't pulling any timing while cruising on the highway and knock counts weren't too frequent, just occasional. The only time it pulled a few degrees was when my trans shifted into 3rd, im guessing this increased the LV8 and caused it to do this? Also, I never bothered to change the constant in the ARAP bin about base timing, wouldn't that throw off the tables or would i have to make global changes? instead of 6advance like the stock motor, i went with 8 advance since it liked it better.

Today I yanked a few spark plugs, and the story was the same with all of them, they each look like this:


White means lean correct? The ALDL wasn't reporting lean too often, in fact it was mostly rich during the cruise. I can include a data-log if anyone wants to check it out. Lastly I was wondering if these AIR pipes might be affecting the o2 readings, i believe these are leftovers from the previous owner, and since I don't have a cat anymore, I might be able to plug them...unless that's not a good idea? here is what they look like:

 

White would be lean. You want them to be closer to a tan color. Probably need more fuel. I cant see the pics at work right now.

If you dont change the base timing constant in the bin and you are now at 8 deg base, you just added 2 deg to the entire table. I'd go back in and make the base value and bin value match, and then tweak the table as necessary. In the part throttle regions you can give it the 2 deg back, but ARAP has alot more timing than the motor would see anyway so I dont think you will need to add more. Most areas you want to tune are timing around idle cells, and WOT cells. Keep in mind PE mode spark advance is also added. I'd zero that out and work in the main table. Makes it easier.

Do your BLM's and INT's show 128 while cruise? Thats going to be in the high 14 low 15 to 1 air fuel which is lean but not dangerously lean. Shouldnt really bleach white the plugs but should be a light tan color. You can adjust the o2 constants to compensate for the AIR tubes. GM adds some mv value to the o2's to retain optimal idle air fuel when fresh air is injected. When its not, you should take those mv's out. I think its 100mv extra added. I havent played too much with this but I know that your BLM/INT values will shift when you change the constants. You can idle at a 14.7 to 1 air fuel and not display 128 BLM with a big cam due to self EGR effect of fresh air getting into exhaust. You can tweak the o2's so that you do display 128 BLM if you wanted.

I dont care to do that, I just give the motor what it wants at idle and if the plugs look reasonable I ignore the BLM at idle on a bigger cammed motor. If its a mild cammed motor that shouldnt have a problem, then I'd be alittle more concerned with the air fuel ratio.

 

Thanks for the information Orr! You and RBob have proved time and time again to be invaluable sources of information and I thank you both! I'm going to change the constant to 8* base timing, which should yank 2 degrees across the board correct? At first I won't touch the tables, but I'll drive it around and see if it doesn't pull timing @ shifts. Then i can re-add timing and play with that table if need be.

Regarding the AIR injection and o2 constants that you've mentioned, where is that o2 constant and what is it called? I'll look for it in tunerproRT. I see what you mean about overlap causing self-EGR effect and I'll have to remember to tune for that. Richer at idle might be a good thing for this setup, as you've mentioned.

 

First cap off the AIR tubes on the headers. ARe they just open right now? Mine looked different than those, but when I deleted AIR, i got some threaded caps to close off the exhaust. Else you could have leaks there and throw off the o2 sensor readings.

With your cam I dont think you will have too much of a problem getting it to idle ok. May not need to adjust any o2 constants. I would try without any changes at first, and tune til the motor seems happy at idle and then watch what the BLM/INT's do. Also do some part throttle driving and get the BLM's/INT's to 128 as close as you can. If the part throttle is close, you may be close at idle as well, but the BLM may not report it due to any overlap effects.

Just play with it back and forth. The o2 constants I think you may end up trying to play with could be:
closed loop rich/lean threshold vs air flow
Fast o2 rich/lean threshold vs air flow
Upper zero error ref for slow o2
Lower zero error ref for slow o2.

There are a few threads discussing those tables so do some searching for o2 constants to see how they all work. I'm not 100% sure how they all work, I only tried playing with them on my 383 for a few days and noticed it changed my BLMs even tho my air fuel at idle remained the same. I ended up getting it somewhat ok and drove the car around. Part throttle was good but then switched to open loop after I had some issues with o2 sensor and first startup after warm shutdown. I think I know what happened but never went back to fix it.

 

Alrighty, I capped off the AIR tubes and this seems to have caused all my BLM to go lower, idle around 110-114 blm and part throttle around 118-119. So I guess I'll be playing with the injector constant again to see if I can even it out and get it closer before I mess with MAF tables again. I also got the MAF voltage into the datastream as per RBob's instruction, so that will make life easier. Also changed the constant to 8* base timing. So orr does it sound about right, that capping the AIR tubes would cause the BLM to go richer? I think this sounds right because there is no more oxygen coming from the outside into the exhaust via the tubes. This new reading is probably more true because its strictly exhaust gases passing over the sensor. I'll post more tomorrow after I tune a bit.

 

Yep that is what could happen with exhaust leaks and openings in the AIR tubes. You could get false readings so it may be rich now. But I would get the idle happy, meaning engine runs smooth and doesnt have any hesitation during idle or in gear, or just off idle. BLM's, let them go where they want to if the idle is happy. WOrk to get 128 and see what it does, if the motor doesnt like it, then ignore and give it what it wants.

 

I just had some time to do more test and tune. Now that the tubes are capped and I brought the injector constant back, around 22lb/hr since it was running rich. The car runs noticeably better now, part throttle is around 126 or 125 in most places, and i even was on the highway around 60-70mph 2300rpm and was a constant 127-128blm and int. It seems pretty happy, i'll just play a bit with idle to see what it likes. I'll definitely have to work on the WOT tables and read about changing them. It pulled some timing when I went WOT on the on-ramp for kicks. I won't do that again until I figure out how to fix the tables lol.

 

How much did it pull? few deg is ok, just need to work on it alittle. Alot of deg is bad

Do another quick WOT pull and watch o2 milivolts. See what they do. A decent starting point is usually around 900 mv for the narrow band o2's.

 

alright will do, it still pulls around 2-5deg when the car shifts, but then it gradually goes down as before. I want to say it pulled around 15 degrees at WOT, ill check my datalog as well.

 

It may have false counts on shifts but definately check to see where your timing levels are. I am thinking you may be lean and have too much timing right now since arap is abit aggressive.

 

Your entire post was VERY helpful! Not to thread hijack... but I am curious, what parameters are used to tune open loop idle air fuel?

 

If using $6E, then open loop can be controlled by a few things.

There is the open loop AFR % change vs LV8. There is the open loop AFR % change vs coolant temp. These work well for open loop during first startups, and also WOT.

MAF tables are a natural global change and if running pure open loop these will work to tune AFR, but if running closed loop they will impact your BLM's and could throw things off.

PE mode stuff acts in WOT which is sorta an open loop operation. It ignores BLMs/INTs so in a sense its open.

Lastly injector base pulsewidth correction vs battery voltage. It can be used to fine tune fuel delivery for idle and lower rpm operation depending on battery voltage. Set your injectors to whatever they are suppose to flow, then tune idle to somewhere in the 14-15 to 1 air fuel range, which is usually what an engine wants at idle. If the air fuel changes alot with varying battery voltages, then use this table to keep air fuel in that spot regardless of what the battery does. Sometimes at night with stereo and headlights on, volts can drop.

 

Ok cool. This is helpful because I'm very confident in the fueling I have changed for closed loop. it cruises great and i just made it on a 150 mile trip with the car. it runs great and cruised well. I have to lean out idle a bit more, but that's easy. I was also wondering about the open loop tuning because I'd like to get it running well for start-ups like you mentioned, before it hits CL.

Also, what would be the best way to go about tuning WOT. And then, whats the best way to find the right advance in timing? I think before you mentioned incrementing the spark advance up until it sees knock, then back off a few degrees and leave it. should i be doing this incrementing to the ENTIRE SA table or only certain parts for now?

 

subscribing for all this great info. i haven't started tuning anything yet just learning stuff now. i am going to be running 24# inj and xfi268 later on and this has been quite useful. thanks.

 

WOT tuning, start by making sure the MAF max air flow vs rpm table is set correctly to read the full amount of air (255 grams/sec) at the mid range rpms if your motor is capable of maxing out the MAF sensor. From about 3200 rpms on up, i'd start adding atleast 30 g/s more to the default settings and make 4000+ rpms set to 255 g/s.
For some reason the stock programming will limit how much fueling can be done thru the MAF at a certain rpm by capping off the air flow it can see. Say for 4400 rpm, the MAF is capped to read 236 g/s. Make that the full 255. You dont have to but you want the MAF to control as much fueling as it can before goin to PE mode. This is how I would normally do it and whats worked for me.

Have the WOT curve setup to something that you expect will work right. This you will dial in later as air fuel becomes reasonable. Keep it somewhat conservative if you dont know what the air fuel will be at WOT. I like to bring max timing in by 3200-3600 rpm which for me was 34-35 deg with AFR heads and hold that to redline (4800 rpm inthe table since thats the highest you can go without code modification). I ramp up fairly quickly from the low rpm end of that table to that 3200 rpm point. Unless your manual trans, you probably will never go WOT at 1200 rpm so those values dont really matter. I usually carry idle timing across the table to the WOT area and ramp in til I hit max of 34 by 3200 or 3600 rpm. WOT tables will be LV8 colums 192-208.

With the timing curve set you can start going WOT. Go slowly into it and check for knock counts or timing retard in your datalogs. Without a wideband o2 sensor its hard to accurately tune WOT. The only way I know that is somewhat helpful is to tune the narrow band milivolts to around 900 mv when at WOT.

Last car i was tuning it was in the 950-970 range and air fuel on the wideband said mid lower 10's to 1 air fuel so you know your rich. Next time I get to datalog that setup I'll get air fuel back down in the 12's and record to see what narrowband is doing.


To control the fuel, I like to play with PE % enrichment vs RPM. Higher positive numbers add more fuel. Negative removes. Depending on the bin you start with and how aggressive the combination is, you may not need to add much, you may need to add ALOT.

I used AUJL on my 89 L98 383 HSR motor and had to add almost 90% extra enrichment at peak torque rpms between 4000-5000 rpm. thats over 75-80% more enrichment vs stock. I'm thinking 12-15% change is about 1 change in AFR. Going by memory on my last car and the one i am tuning on and off now. Seems like closer to 15% bumped about a 1 air fuel ratio.

 

Alright. Tomorrow I will be setting timing and attempting some WOT work. I'm getting a bung welded in and borrowing my local club's Wide band sensor to take a look at AFR. Since people are subscribing, I'm going to include some visuals for clarification. These are the tables in reference right now, remember this is a stock ARAP bin $6e:

Maximum Air Flow vs RPM:


Spark Advance Table:


I think it would be beneficial to explain what the LV8 is, I have read a few common misconceptions about it in other threads as well, besides it being a load variable. Also the stock ARAP seems low on timing in the 192-208 lv8 areas, showing around low to mid 20s degree advance from 2000 to 4000 rpm. Hopefully it gets woken up when I go all in around 3200 like you mentioned, @ 34* advance. I'll report back tomorrow with results(hopefully positive ones )

 

That is all LV8 is, a Load Variable, with the 8 for 8-bit (single byte of data). The LV8 (and LV16) are derived from engine RPM and airflow.

The higher the airflow the higher the LV value and vice-versa.

The higher the RPM the lower the LV value and vice-versa.

It basically resembles a MAP reading. Except that the LV value will change with changes in the MAF flow tables.

The MAF miscellanea link has additional information on the creation of the LV value.

RBob.

 

Its not too low on timing there. Look at the PE mode timing advance adder. Its adding another 9 deg in some spots around there, so infact timing isnt all that bad.

I'd still zero out the PE mode advance adder and just tune the main table.

 

Alright guys, sorry it's been a while since I posted last, school has been working me hard. A few hours ago i finished some work on the spark tables with a friend. We logged on a hill nearby and got a chance to change the values on the stock ARAP bin. Those areas over 40 degrees had to go, as they were causing all sorts of issues. We decided to stick conservatively around 34* max advance. Since I have an automatic I don't really see the low load areas of the table much, but the cruising areas felt pretty good and easing into WOT worked amazingly!

I have a couple datalogs showing me easing into WOT at hitting 34* advance around 4500RPM with ZERO timing being pulled. This seems very impressive and I might be able to push it further. Here is a quick graph and table snapshot of what I changed. Let me know if I did anything stupid lol.

 

Think you are alittle too conservative in the low LV8 lower rpms ranges for cruise. ARAp was up in the 45-48 range while you are now in the 30 range. I think you can try to run 35-36 deg in most areas above 1200 rpm between 48-80 LV8

 

good point. I've been changing those values in order to get some timing in under low load and high rpm, the areas where it was 45-48deg, i might lower them just a bit for now. Also I've been making sure the fueling is near 128blm again, or a bit leaner for cruise.

The part I haven't tackled yet is WOT tuning. Last time i went WOT it seemed the fuel couldn't compensate that quickly and it pulled some timing, so i let off. When I gradually accelerate however, the fueling is great and I can get to WOT without it pulling any timing. Should I be fattening up the fuel for WOT? What tables should I work with to achieve this, I was thinking maybe "Power Enrich vs Temp" or "Power enrich vs RPM"? or am I looking in the wrong areas. Thanks!

 

PE vs temp and PE vs rpm are good starting point for WOT... thats where i'd start if you think you are lean to begin with. SLowly work your way up into WOT. Do some heavy throttle runs and see what it does before going into the WOT range.

 

You could try to Increase AE some if you get a lean dip when WOT, both by make it add morde fu0le and maybe you need the SE to be active a bit longer (more pulses).....

 

Well im finally back since the weather is nice and I'm home from school enough to do some WOT pulls. As was mentioned previously, i started with the PEvsRPM and PEvsTemp tables and here is what i have so far:


Here are two tables that I would like to know more about actually, they are "Open loop AFR % change vs LV8" and "Open loop AFR ratio % change vs coolant temp" and stock look like this:


Ok, so tonight i hit the highway and did some pulls easing it WOT and then stomping on it a few times to see what happens. Basically across the board, whenever i stomp on it i pull timing....and in some places it was as much as 11 degrees.....which i quickly stopped doing lol. After increasing the PEvsRPM fueling as shown it would pull less and less timing, around 5* by the time i was done.

So i was wondering should i be increasing this even more than it is now or is there something else im missing? I have not messed with the MAF tables in this area yet, so i could try that out. Also, should i just zero out the PEvsTemp and just add those values to the PEvsRPM table instead? Unfortunately I currently do not have a wideband, so when i get back down the school i can more accurately determine AFR, but for the time being should i throw more fuel at it to reduce knock to safe levels, or is this bad practice?

Also, this thread at https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ning-268h.html has helped alot, thanks again orr!

 

Watch your narrow band o2 sensor volts. They can give you indication of your air fuel ratio. Shoot for 900-910 milivolts right now at WOT. That should be mid 12's to 1 air fuel. I verified this on another car I tuned.

If your much below 900 milivolts you are getting lean. Around 450 is 14.7 to 1 air fuel. Too much over 900 and your way rich. 940-950 is in the high 10's to 1 to low 11's to 1air fuel.

If you can do a datalog with tunerpro rt that would be very helpful.

 

ok. Here is the one i did last night, i scanned over it and looks like the mV really fluctuate quite a bit...there are some pulls around the 4:50 and on mark. This was done with tunerproRT5

 

I still run version 4. I will have to see if I can read that file or else I"ll have to get version 5 which I was curious to try anyway

 

yea i have both, was trying to get into using 5 more often...but im still fond of version 4. I use that one to make bin changes, and i use 5 for the nice custom digital dash feature! However, i have a sticky up on the tunerpro forums that talks about how you have to add a "wait" command in the ALDL stream otherwise it will error alot while you datalog.

 

open loop tables basically control fueling while the motor is not in closed loop Can disable closed loop and do some logs to get the open loop tune perfect and then re-enable closed loop.

I never really had to mess with those tables. PE mode is still active in closed loop and open loop modes. So just by tuning PE and with the car being MAF, i didnt have to change a thing with open loop.

The PE mode vs rpm enrichment table will usually follow the torque curve. More enrichment will be found at peak torque RPM than higher peak hp rpms...usually but depends on the bin. Last few cars i worked with follow this trend. I'm surprised you have added that much enrichment to the table with ARAP. My buddy's car had to take fuel out and he has the 190 AFR heads and xfi 280 cam with stealth ram. low low 12 second car.

I really want to see your logs but i dont have tunerpro 5 yet and not sure if the file can be read by version 4.

 

hmmmm i see....yea i can't really tell how rich or lean it is because of the mV bouncing around like you'll see in the log. Ok ill leave the Open Loop AFR tables stock and just work on the PE ones. My friend was saying he thinks everytime i stomp on it it knocks because i need to work on "tip-in enrichment". Do we have a table for such a thing, or does the PE enrich take care of that? If i can find out where itll make peak torque, i think i can alter the PE enrich accordingly....

oh and here is the link for downloading V5: http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm
after you install, just fire it up and load this log and play it's got some nice features.

 

GTA324 hit on it already... AE enrichment...acceleration enrichment. There are a few tables but I like the AE enrichment vs change in LV8. tweak that in small increments

 

mmk, so in $6e there is "Acceleration Enrichment Factor vs. Change in LV8" and it looks like this:


Just want to make sure thats the right one to mess with. Sometimes i get confused with the wording in the bin, for instance this one says "change in lv8" but the variables shown are just lv8 numbers lol, not a change of any kind. So i guess ill increment them upwards and see how it reacts, any suggestions on increments to increase the factors by?

 

Yep thats the one. A big change in LV8 can be like going from idle at 64 lv8 to WOT at the drag strip which can be full load at 256 lv8, so thats a delta of 192, so you adjust the tune at the 192 spot. A smaller transition in throttle may be only 64 lv8 so tune that portion.

 

ohhhh gotcha! thanks a ton! do you know offhand what kinds of incremental changes i should make? since its a factor, does one normally increase these numbers by like +1 or 2, or large incremental changes, like going from the stock 20.31 to 30.31

 

one or 2 at a time really. My 383 went from a stock value of 20 to 25 to be optimal.

Looking at your log now

 

Log looks strange to me.

I dont see a WOT run. I see you ran to 4600 rpm but TPS voltage is only 2.53 volts max and NOT over 4.5-5.0 volts like it should be. Its staying in closed loop and doesnt appear to be getting enrichment. I see LV8 got up to 208 or so in the 4000's rpm range with MAF up over 180 g/s so its getting load and MAF flow but I would have expected to seen TPS over 4.5 volts and O2 voltage to hold steady if that was your WOT run. Also expected much more LV8 in that 4000 range. I'd expect closer to 250. Also expect MAF to nearly max out by 5000 rpm on that setup.

I think its getting to lean there and thus pulling upwards of 11 deg of timing. BLM/INT appear to settle out under that heavy load, as they should both go to 128 in WOT mode but looks like BLM is 120 locked.

Verify your getting TPS over 4.5 volts with throttle WOT. You have .55 at idle/closed which is normal. But i'm not seeing WOT.
Verify PE mode enables at an LV8 around 64 or so.

 

That is odd, but now that I'm looking through my old logs I see the same trend. Even on my other supposed WOT runs, where i eased into WOT.....i got the TPS up to a max of 3volts. I'll double check the WOT voltage tomorrow.

Regarding the min LV8 to enable PE, its set in constants as 50lv8, so that should be ok correct? its even lower than idle lv8.

Even with my old logs, it didn't come out of closed loop...its supposed to go into an open loop type state correct?

 

LV8 of 60 is fine, you can up that abit if you want to ensure you stay out of PE if you ever do hit requirements to go into PE mode but I doubt it will happen. Some bins I think are 64 lv8 but I cant remember. Just making sure it wasnt set to some high number.

When you got WOT you should see TPS voltage well over 4 volts and BLM/INT go straight to 128/128, and then see o2 voltage stop fluctuating/switching back and forth. It will hold a straight value like 900 with just a little variance between 880-920 or so but if fueling is even, it will be a small variance.

Its technically NOT out of closed loop, it just drops the o2/blm functions and relies on MAF and open loop/pe mode tables

 

ok tested the TPS, it looks like my foot wasn't all the way down, i was able to max around 4.25volts by mashing it as hard as i can, and doing it manually with my hand. Is this a decent range or should i adjust it more to get between 4.5-5v? the closed position is around 0.55 which seems pretty normal from what ive read and the tech article: https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2

i might go do some runs again, and increase the AE to see if that stops it from pulling timing as i mash WOT. And to compensate for the 4.25 volt WOT, should i lower my TPS% to enter PE mode table down from 70.3% to maybe initiate it sooner?

 

This is common on our third gens. Make sure that the floor mat isn't under the gas pedal. May also need to remove some padding from under the carpet in the area under the gas pedal.

Can check this by observing the stop on the throttle body. Mash the gas and observe that the TB is against the stop.

RBob.