Hi there..

I have a pretty big questions as you can see by the topic of this thread.
I am pretty new to this chip burning thing but have read all of the important topics on this Forums and have bought burning, emulation and ALDL equipment so I am pretty ready to start on my own learning this thing.

To give you some information on the car that I want to tune.
It is a 87 Camaro with a 305TPI engine. The engine was overhauled last summer with: new pistons, bearings, gaskets, o-rings etc. etc.

I also added performance parts such as: New high-lift camshaft, Hooker 2055HKR headers. Ported the stock heads, Magnaflow 3" exhaust and a Catco 9118 high flow catalytic converter. I also have the transmission rebuilt and replaced the converter with a 2000 stall speed converter.
I also changed the rear end to a Eaton Auburn Posi unit with 3.42 gears.

So my main question now is what to do with the tuning??
I have a stock PROM that is burned by myself based on the 6E definition and BIN file from a 89 Camaro with stock 305TPI engine and 2.73 gears AUTO.

So again..What to do??..What can be done to make my car perform better with this setup??..I am looking for a street car. Not a race car but a better daily driver/street car.

Thanks

 

Good tune is when the motor is running as optimal as it will run...meaning its idling smooth under all conditions, gets good mileage but also makes most power its capable of for the mods it has.

SO in your situation, the mods you have may need fuel modifications to run to its optimal level.

MAF will compensate for alot of mods by itself but cant always do everything. So i'd start with smoothing out the timing table and then attack fueling from the MAF tables and PE mode enrichment tables.

If you have a big cam, it may need to idle at a higher rpm than stock...so adjust that if needed.

Since you probably want to continue to run in closed loop, you can try to disable that right now to see how it runs in open loop mode. This is important because on cold starts the motor runs like this until getting into closed loop when its warmed up enough.

There are a few open loop based tables and the MAF tables help control fuel. Really need a wideband o2 sensor to target the typical 14.5-15.5 air fuel ratios that closed loop will target for idle and cruise. Also the wideband is necessary for WOT operation.

After thats done, enable closed loop and it should be pretty close to running ok if the open loop tune was targeting 14.7 to 1. This is where you watch BLM's and INT values and try to adjust fueling to get them both around 128 +/- 4 or so. Alot of time tuning can get them right on 128 but alot of motors run great when "close" to 128 so if you are happy with it then its ok to stop adjusting. Hell, some motors may not want to target 128 or 14.7 to 1 air fuel so give it what it likes best.

WOT tuning is best done with wideband but the stock o2 sensor can be used. Generally when you go WOT the o2 sensor will go to a set value based on air fuel ratio (instead of swinging back and forth from low voltage to high voltage like it does in idle/cruise mods) Typically rich motors will see over 900mv at WOT for the o2 sensor in the datalogs. 900MV is a good target to shoot for. I find that to be very close to 12.5-12.8 air fuel. 930-950 is in the 10's to low 11's to 1 it seems.

When air fuel tables are pretty close to being where you want them, play with timing some more. Idling timing should be played with first when setting idle rpm since bigger cammed setups running higher idle rpms will want/require more timing to stabilize things. Alot of stock cars run 16-20 deg at idle. My big cammed 383 liked 28. My 401 turbo motor likes 28-30 but will idle with 16 just as well. Difference is throttle response feels better and I pull more vacuum. My friends big cammed L98 likes 28-30 as well. You can give timing to idle and watch a vacuum gauge hooked to your intake.
HIgher the vacuum, the better the tune generally.. so if the air fuel is optimal, and timing is optimal, you should see most vacuum there. Old trick I learned from oldschool carb guys but seems to be applicable to everything. Most importantly is give it what it wants til its smooth enough for your liking.

Timing during cruise is a similar thing.. you can tune with vacuum gauge..tape it to the window or run a line inside the car. Go by feel as well. I like to run as much timing as the motor will take at those specific rpm and load points until motor starts getting knock retard with the fuel you are using. Once you see a deg pulled, back off 2-3 deg or so. Should be a great starting point.

WOT i like to bring in max timing by 2800-3200 depending on the setup and run around 34 deg as a starting point. More efficient heads like less. On the verge of being dangerous for pump gas operation like a high compression motor? I'd run less timing to start 28-30. Vortec heads? They tend to like less... 28-30 can be a start. Older style heads may want as much as 36-38 deg... Thats something a dyno or track tuning will tell you... Again, use the knock sensor to determine whats going on and try to check plugs to verify.

With 700r4 and higher stall converters, you can adjust the transmission settings for lock up control. Factory has it set like 40-45 mph and it will lock up the converter so it stays 1 to 1 ratio with the gears/engine speed. Less heat generated in the trans this way since converter is no longer slipping. I like to lower that setting to 25-30 mph if my car will take it so when I am in a low speed situation running up a hill or something, i dont sit at 2600 rpms with my 3600 rpm stall converter when I could just lockup the converter and be at 1500 rpm

hope that helps

 

Great reply!!!!

 

Woow. This really helped me out a little bit... I really appreciate the great respond on my thread here Orr89RocZ...

You actually telled me much easier what to look at and what to do.
Is it ok, that I PM you with some questions in the future??..
I guess there will be some questions along with the tuning process..
Btw: my camshaft is a COMP camshaft part number: 08-412-8

 

Thats the basic starting points I've used on a few motors. Hasnt really failed me yet If you want to PM me, thats fine I am happy to help if I can.

 

I would appreciate if you could continue discussion online rather than PM. We all have something to learn.

 

Ok, we can still keep this open. There are alot more people on here with more experience and knowledge about these cars/systems than me, but these are my thoughts and methods so far that seem to do ok.

This seems to be MAF centered but speed density guys can follow similar paths. Hardest part is getting started with tuning. Once you are in doing it, you will catch on fairly quickly.

I'll throw in some more pointers on MAF table tuning. I've been asked how do you adjust the tables? How many grams/ per second is normal to increase/decrease with: 0.01 or 0.10 or 1.0 or what??

This can vary depending on the table you are in. There are 6 tables. Higher ones 5-6 usually only hit with WOT and 6 is mostly 254 g/s which is the max allowable value. The differences between each cell in the higher tables can be 7-11 g/s while in table 1, the difference between each cell can be 2-5. So a change of 1 g/s in table 1 can have a larger impact on air fuel ratio than a change of 1 g/s in table 5. More fuel is needed at higher g/s flows than low idle speeds.

As you go higher in the tables up to table 4-6, it takes abit more change to the grams/sec values to see a change in air fuel or BLM's when in closed loop.
The Idle table is table 1, is lower end of the scale so smaller changes there make much bigger changes to the air fuel ratio. I try to start with .5's or so in table 1. Closer you get to where you want to be, make smaller changes.
While table 3-4 for heavier throttle, with more engine load may need increases of 2-3 at a time to see a change. Maybe even more. I dont touch table 5 and 6 since thats usually only WOT and I tune that by PE mode (Power Enrichment).

Basically what you want to do is connect to your ALDL port to datalog and monitor what the engine idles at for grams/sec. Monitor the MAF output for grams/sec. IF it idles around 9 grams a second, and wideband shows rather lean say 16 to 1 air fuel, then you may want to increase fuel. If the idle is stabile and "happy" then it may be ok there. If its dying out due to being too lean, then may want to increase fuel there.

Do that by looking in MAF table 1, look in the g/s column where 9 would be. It may lie between 2 values say 10.87 and 8.36 which is what stock ARAP bin is. You will want to increase 8.36 and 10.87 to richen. Try 8.9 and 11.2 and see what happens. Take it slow with smaller changes and see what the motor does.

Same thing for cruise. If you are at 45mph and notice MAF gram sec is 45 g/s and wideband is showing too rich, go to your table that has 45 g/s in it. Thats top of table 2 in ARAP bins, between 44.44 and 47.63. So change the 44.44 to 43.4 and 47.63 to 46.6. That will lean it out. A change of 1 there may be too much but wont know til you try it.

Important thing to notice here. The tables have a pattern. The top entry in TABLE 1 matches the BOTTOM entry of TABLE 2. TOP of table 2 matches BOTTOM of table 3 and so on so forth. These must be equal. So if you changed top of table 2 like I did in the example above, i'd have to go into table 3 and change bottom entry to 46.6 as well.

Thats basically how I attack MAF tables. Works the same way if in CLOSED loop and watching BLM's instead of wideband AIR FUEL ratios. Datalogs with BLM and INT's can be used. Compare g/s in the logs to the BLM's and INT's. If you are below 128 BLM you will want to lean out the motor so you need to decrease the grams/sec in the MAF tables. If above 128 BLM, need to richen it.

A BLM of 128 is targeting 14.7 to 1 air fuel or stoich. Good place to be for cruise and idle but not all motors want to idle there. You will see on alot of cammed motors a blm of 128 doesnt always mean 14.7 to 1 air fuel at idle. As long as the motor is happy there its ok. Lot of motors can be leaner there and still be ok.

 

For those with wilder combinations running MAF that may risk maxing out the MAF you may want to adjust the Maximum air flow vs RPM table. Basically its a g/s vs rpm based table that determines how much flow can be read thru the MAF per each RPM level. For example, stock ARAP bin says 3600 rpm can read 200 grams/sec. AFter that level I dont think the MAF will adjust fueling anymore and relies on PE if in PE or else it just goes lean.
On a stock car you rarely see anymore than 210 g/s at WOT 5000 rpm peak but on a 383 I helped tune, it saw over 220g/s by 3600 rpm at WOT. It maxed out the MAF at 254 g/s by 4200 rpms around peak torque. So what was done, was make the g/s values for 2400 rpm on up the maximum allowable 254 g/s to make sure the MAF does as much fueling as possible before we need to use PE mode for WOT.


For WOT I use PE mode vs RPM 99% of the time. For PE fueling, you want to use Power Enrichment vs RPM and even the PE enrichment vs TEMP table. I only use the temp table if the air fuel ratio is flat across the rpm range but you just want to swing it richer or leaner since it is a global change across all rpms for that coolant temperature. This comes in handy when motor is run hard at different coolant temp levels. If you are cold, it may want to be richer in WOT. When very hot it could be more detonation prone so an overly rich mixture helps cool cylinder temps. I rarely needed to use this. You can use timing table vs coolant to pull timing when overheating to prevent detonation in that case.

I have been finding that around 10-15% change in either direction positive or negative will make 1 point air fuel ratio change. Meaning add 10-15% to a value it will increase fuel from say 13 to 1 air fuel to 12 to 1 air fuel or fairly close to that. Subtract 10-15% it will decrease fuel from 13 to 1 to 14 to 1. If you are in a cell that has 0 already in it, and need to go leaner, just enter a negative number.

Its best to use 5% increments at a time so you dont go too lean if trying to lean out a motor, but if its too lean to start with then add 10-15% increments to get in the safer rich zone as soon as you can.

Its rpm based and only in PE mode which is generally WOT but can be triggered under heavy part throttle. So if you go WOT and you see you are lean at 3600 rpm, then go to the table and find 3600 rpm, and add fuel % there. If you are at 15 to 1 air fuel there at WOT thats very lean so may want to quickly change 20-30% there and see what happens. Thats the best and easiest table to use for WOT fueling. Its the ONLY table I ever use really.

TIMING TABLE

First have base timing on the distributor set to whatever your motor needs, usually 6-12 deg and match that in the bin file in the Constants section where it has base spark reference angle/advance. Those have to match each other.

For your timing, there is a main spark table and a PE mode adder table that will add or subtract spark when in WOT/PE mode. This gets added to your spark table (main spark advance table)

I like to make PE mode spark advance 0 in all cells, and work from the main advance table. So go ahead and add in the values from PE mode table to the main spark table for the RPM ranges listed. That will make life easier IMO.

I like to smooth the table out. If you use the 3d Graph you will see peaks/valleys/steep points and that may create unsmooth operation while driving when you cross those spots. So I ramp the timing in smoothly and evenly across all the LV8 loads and rpms. This takes alittle time doing alot of datalogs trying to hit all Loading vs rpm conditions you may encounter. Usually I'll try to add as much timing as I can til I start to see timing retard from the knock sensor system, then I'll back off 2-3 deg and leave it. This level varies depending on the fuel you use. 93 oct can handle more timing than 87.

General trend is lower rpm, lower LV8 (load) you have lower timing than higher rpm, lower LV8. As you increase load timing tends to go down because cylinder pressures are increasing. Lower rpm high LV8 has lower timing than higher rpm high Lv8.
So basically timing increases from bottom to top in the spark table, and decreases from left to right. Thats the way I've done my motors. More tweaking is needed for best mileage but i never took it that far. 500hp 383 and mileage dont really go together so I didnt focus on it.

For Idle, I like to lock timing in all cells around my desired idle rpm as it normally helps stabilize idle. For instance, desired idle 900-1000 rpm... I idle around 60-65 LV8. I go to the spark table and make my timing say 26 deg in the cells between 48 and 80 LV8 for rpm's between 800 and 1200. Seemed to tame my 383 down and my friends 360 motor, as well as my 401 speed density motor.

WOT I like to make max timing between 34-36 for most motors however some need less, some need more. That is for you to find out. I like to make max timing come in at 2800-3200 rpm if the motor will take it. Seems to help boost that torque in that area. Carb guys do this alot. STock timing does not do this. WOT timing in the main spark table will be LV8 columns 192 and 208..even tho most wild motors may see LV8 in the logs as high as 255.

 

Great Thread!!!

 

Yes, I agree, good thread. That Orr guy can type really good! Just want to get in my comments about tuning MAF engine. So here goes.

Dont forget about the Injector Size scalar, in the constants section. I use that alot, to make global changes in order to get the BLMs near 128. For a fairly stock or mild modfied, 350 tpi, i think this works well. Now this is for running closed loop, general part throttle operation. I think it is a tall task to get ALL your BLMs at 128, so I look at the "average", over a normal part throttle run.
If you try to find a particular MAF area, at xx rpm, and try to adjust the correct MAF table, it might take you a long time to get it right. Load conditions will change from day to day, so it might not fix all conditions. I am just saying try to shoot for BLMs of 128 +-4 is good. My car seems to run good that way.

Now on the other hand, you could do it this way. Set that injector constant to EXACTLY what your injectors flow at. Then do some math and adjust ALL maf tables by what you just changed the injector constant. Then you would in essence be calibrating your MAF to your engine. I have never done this, but dream about trying it. Is it the right way to do it? Another debate topic!

Or you could run open loop all the time, and tune with WB. Looks like many people also do that. I dream about doing that as well. Probably better off that way with a highly modified engine. But that is not me, yet.

I usually read all Orr's posts, and learn something no matte what.

 

I am a fan of setting injector constant to the calculated flow rate of your injectors at the pressure you are running, and tuning from there. Global fuel change by injector constant works well to figure out if the motor responds better to a large change in fueling, but IMO i like to set injectors to what they are rated at. Thats just the way I have always approached it. If you have 24 lb injectors at 43.5 psi, then set constants to 24.

 

This is also my approach. Meaning to say (EBL) I set BPC for proper injector control, (result reflecting command) not in an attempt to manipulate mixture.

 

Ok, but what if your not running the fuel pressure that they are rated for?
I beleive my 350 TPI injectors are 22lb units, and right now I have my FI constant at 24.30. But my fuel pressure is at 48psi, at least that is what I had it set at while ago. Not really sure what my stock 22lb injectors were rated at, but 43.5 sounds good. Now I did have my injectors sent out for cleaning and flow testing a while ago, and they were matched to flow very close. But who knows what pressure they were checked at.
In my stock bin, the FI constant was at 23.0. In the ARAP bin it was set to 22.4.

So here is a thought for you, can you just raise the FI constant by the amount the FP is raised by? eg., do the math: 22.0/43.5= x/48.0, which gives you x=24.276.....pretty darn close to what I am using!

I agree, this global change is good for newbies, or someone looking to get the tune in the ballpark. I just dont like to mess with the MAF tables if I can help it.

 

Compensate using the formula below...

squareroot(new pressure/old pressure) * rated flow rate at old pressure = new flow rate at new pressure.


so 30 lb injectors rated at 43.5 psi....what are they at LSx rated 58 psi fuel pressure?

sqrt(58/43.5) * 30lb = 34.6 lbs/hr.

So if you have 22 lb injectors rated at 43.5 psi and you set your regulator at 48psi, you should use 23.11 lbs/hr as your new constant.

Handy if using Ford injectors which I believe are rated at 39psi pressure instead of 43.5. Most injectors are rated at 3 bar which is 43.5 psi.

The MAF tables are fairly easy to play with. Worse comes to worse, just go back to the stock settings. Its nice to create a numbered series of bins with each change you make so if that new change you make isnt a good one, you can go back to the previous tune. NOthing like saving over a bin file and wondering what the heck you had in there before.

 

Ok, so your formula just takes the SQRT of the ratios of pressures, times the flow rate. I figured there was right way to do it. So if I made that change, would I raise all of my MAF table values by that ratio? Which is 1.05?

And yes, I always save a bin change with a new name. That is just common computer sense when creating files. Helps to keep track how many bins you make. My latest bin is labled ARAPWB026. So this is the 26th bin change with my most current modified definition file. (output of LM1 WB into datastream). I even make a new file name for just one simple little change! And I also keep track of how many burns on each EEPROM. How sick is that!!?

 

No you dont change the MAF tables by a ratio. You do that to the injector constant to find the right value to place in the bin constants for injector size.

Theoretically, if you took a stock car that has 22 lb injectors and replaced the injectors with 30 lbs injectors, and the only change you made to the bin file in the chip is to make injector constants 30 lbs instead of 22, it should run no different than before. This assumes same spray pattern which not all injectors are equal. ECM just calculates a new pulsewidth based on the size of the injector.

MAF tables should be changed only based on results from your datalogs when tuning BLM's or from wideband o2 sensor data if you run open loop. If I still have some old logs I can show you what I did to a friends car i helped tune and our results of getting the INT's and BLM's close to 128. It will take me alittle while to compile all that information and to present it all but I think it could be worth while.

 

I understand you exactly Orr, just that I think you missed the point of my question. We are talking about the injector constant, and yes you have explained how to set it if your FP is different, or if your actual injector size is different. Like I said, mine are still stock size.

Now what I have been doing, is adjusting this FI constant, to get my BLMs to avg out to 128. Raise the FI constant to raise your BLMs. Right now I am at 24.30, so if I lower the constant to what it should be, 23.11, then my BLMs will be lower, which will make my tune richer. So, then, I would have to mess with the MAF tables to get my BLMs back up to 128. That was my question.


That would be interesting to see how you did it, when you get the time. I look at my BLMs, LV8, and MAF, and try to decide how to change a particular table area, but I just dont seem to have any luck with it. I can get my BLMs to AVG=128, over a 20 minute part throttle datalog. But it still swings maybe +-4 from 128, so I just call it good. And I mostly do this with changes to the FI constant.

This is a good topic, but we are getting off base from the original poster. Maybe start a new thread when you get all the info together.

Mike

 

 

I could put it in a new thread..

I see what your saying.. I had a friend do this on the 383 i helped tune. car seemed to run better at 25.5lb injector constants compared to his 27 lb bin file.. He thought the car seemed rich so he put the injector constant higher to lean it out. It worked abit as the BLM's were up closer to 128 in some spots, but his problem was he had both rich and lean spots so you couldnt fix all of that with just an injector constant change.

I told him set it back to 25.5 based on the fuel pressure and rating of the injectors he had and tune the MAF from there. A few changes here and there he sent me a log with BLM/INT's within +-3 of 128 which is reallly good IMO. That car had some spots where BLM was 20 or so off so we got it matching what the narrowband wanted.

In your case, if you need to raise injector constant to get BLM's near 128, then your too rich and need to lean out the MAF tables. You can try global changes with Scalars first if the car seems to be off across the entire table but if its off in spots then you will need to attack individual values in the table.

 

This thread is getting better and better for a guy like me which is almost newbie when it comes to tuning. I really understand a lot more how to handle the tuning of my Camaro..
Thanks to all of you, and please keep writing on this thread if you want

 

Why not just ratio the entire MAF table, up or down by the amount of what I change that FI constant, eg like 1.05 from above? I dont really want to mess with the scalars. You have to smooth everything out from table to table. I am sure it can be done. Now I am not talking that much of a change in the FI constant. Looking at some previous data, after new MAF sensor installed, FI was at 23.71, BLMS were 117-128 with avg of 122.
But now you got me thinking, that I CAN do this, and it wont be that difficult. It is kind of like calibrating your MAF sensor to the engine that it feeds.

 

This does work, as long as the car is happy and making improvements to where you want it to run. I guess its not a bad way to tune, I just prefer doing it the other way by telling the ECM exactly what is going thru it injector wise, and tuning the fuel via MAF tables. I dont find it difficult so thats what I do and it is the only way to get best fuel control under all throttle conditions since its more precise while injector change is global change. I tune MAF tables like I tune VE tables in speed density.. its spot to spot tuning, not global changes.
But I also look at various groups of samples over a course of time. I just dont rely on 1 set of data. I try to group the datalog samples by grams/sec pockets that cover table 1, 2, 3, etc. For instance a period over 2400-3000 rpm under 35-40% throttle may fall into MAF table 3, so I look for other samples in the log that are in similar loading/rpm/throttle percentage range that would also be in MAF table 3 and compare conditions (BLMs if tuning for 128). Based on the numbers I write down, if i have a good sample of data I will decide to make a change to MAF table 3.

Problem is the change in injector constant doesnt always match whats needed. It turned out that the 383 TPI carI helped tune used 25.5lb injector constant and was RICH and then a 27lb injector constant (5.9% change) to lean out fuel. It was closer but still off, and other areas were better with the 25.5lb bin.
So I told the guy go with the 25.5 lb bin but try these changes. Table 1 wanted 4% taken out, top 3 cells of table 3 take 1% out but leave rest alone, table 4 take 2% out, table 5 take 2% out. Table 2 was actually OK where it was.

So you can see sometimes, you need to adjust certain tables only and you cant get there with injector constant changes alone.

Thats basically all that you do. The MAF is suppose to beable to read all changes in air quality and flow, so theoretically if its calibrated right, and the fuel equations are accurate, you shouldnt have to touch the tables. But I find this not to be true in some cases.
My 383 I didnt have to change the tables except alittle in MAF table 1 for idle to get it where I wanted it. My friends 360 motor didnt have to change the tables except alittle in table 1 for idle. One guys 383 we did change the tables... so it all depends

It really isnt all that difficult. You just need to record BLM and INT's for certain grams/sec values. At the same time, take a look at RPM/throttle position, and LV8 ranges that correspond to those gram/sec points. In your datalog find as many samples that have similar conditions to get a good range of data to compare to. Then from there you will know that i'm either too rich or too lean, or just right everytime my motor sees XX grams/second of flow in these rpm/Lv8 ranges.

 

Well Orr, I think you finnaly convinced me. It doesnt look that bad. So what I need to do is get my FI constant back down to 23.11, and leave the MAF tables alone. Then go out and get some datalogs, and see how it runs. Shouldnt be too hard to do. And then start working on MAF tables. I do like the idea that you can fine tune specific areas which are lean or rich. After all, there are 9 entries in the first 5 MAF tables, so you have much to work on. The FI constant is really just good for global changes, or "ballpark tuning". With the ablility to flash chips over and over, just need to keep working on certain areas, and testing. I have always wanted to get my BLMs to be closer to 128, in all areas of tune. I think the SD guys can get it closer than a MAF system. I could even start looking at old datalogs now.....

 

Mike, set your FI constant for the pressure your using, not back to stock unless you are using stock pressure, as the higher pressure effectively enlarges your injectors. Start there & you will have the best results.

Nobody has disagreed with your having done that. Once set correctly go to town w/maf.

 

this is an awesome thread but i have a speed density car the motor isnt in yet and havent messed with any tuning how much of this can i use

 

Yepper, will do. I just checked my FP today, and I am still at 48psi. So from what I said above, my new FI constant should be 23.11. Then will start getting some datalogs, and adjust MAF tables.

Now I did look at some old scan data, using TP RT, and found the BLMs werent off that much. But for part throttle tuning, i usually test with a different scan tool. So now I am worried that the 2 scanners will not give me same BLM numbers. Thus which one do I believe??

 

Data is data... if the scanner is designed to read ecm output, it will be the same regardless of what scanner is used...or atleast it should be. ECM only outputs 1 aldl signal...reading that signal shouldnt change the data.

General concept is the same...instead of reading MAF grams/second flow and making changes to that, you compare VE to your blms at the different RPM points and KPA of pressure in the manifold. Make spot to spot changes to bring your BLM's in line to 128 when tuning closed loop. I will try to go into abit of detail on how i tuned my speed density turbo motor later. I have more experience with the MAF stuff but learning speed density fairly quickly. I have not tuned 8D yet..just code $59..but VE tuning is VE tunign regardless of the system..the tables and such may be different but overall idea is same.

 

Sure would like to here more on the speed density...

 

More info in stickies above....

 

I constantly read them all. This was a very good conversation! Thanks to everyone!

 

I wish I could keep going with this tune method. But my ride is now parked for the winter, so no new scan data for me. I made some notes for next spring. Maybe I can look at some old data this winter. I really think I can fine tune my engine with this method.
It actually drives pretty good, IMO, but I always want more....