Hey guys, I am trying to run a wire from my secondary fan to the ECM so that I can give the computer full control over the fans? Does anybody know where I can get new pins to crimp onto the wire? Thanks.

 

http://www.waytekwire.com/products?clear=true

These guys have all the stuff you need to do just about any type of Delco terminal or plug. They have the overall best prices I was able to find when I was stocking up to build my own harnesses. They have the proper crimp tool for about $23.00 which works great for me.

Here is a link to the Delphi catalog, which you will want to use as a reference to identify which terminals you need for whatever you are doing. Study it well, some of it is confusing.
http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochu...balCatalog.pdf


People dont talk about it much, but almost all the Delco Metripack connectors are fully rebuildable. I gather a few handfulls every time I go to pick-n-pull, then de-pin and and wash them. They come out looking like new most of the time. You can even wash and reuse the little weatherproof rubber seals, I string them on a piece of fishing line and wash in the dish washer.

BTW, dont try to crimp the Delco/Delphi terminals without the right tool, that rolled crimp is a big part of what makes them work so well.

Good luck

 

12089660-L .50-.35
12146448-L 1.00-.80
12146447 .60-35

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...Zl7LJUsw%3D%3D

 

Awesome! Thanks guys.

 

Bumping this to verify the '448 terminal is what is used in the ECM, it comes out to be about 16-18ga.

The '447 terminal is for ~10-22ga wire.

 

'447 for 20 & 22 AWG
'448 for 16 & 18 AWG

RBob.

 

Thanks! Edited my original post. I hate spreading misinformation, even though I was close lol


I just ordered 25 '448's. I'm wiring up my shift light project and I only need one but the price goes down the more you order, $3.48 for the terminals, 5.99 for shipping...


Maybe I'll extend the EBL's flash plug in to the center console so I don't have to reach so far to plug in my laptop. Envy me, you who are still swapping chips.

 

Okay, so what is the correct tool to crimp these and where does one get them?

 

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/533/C...ED-METRI-PACK/

There are nicer ratcheting versions, but I have two of these and a friend has one also and they work great. The resulting rolled crimp is exactly as the factory version.

this tool is 22.02 at Waytek, I havent shopped around you may find it cheaper.

 

Great I am getting ready to transplant my 87 Firebird engine & TPI into a 48 Chev truck. I got the original Fbird wiring harness in the deal, it was butchered when it was removed but at least I have all the connectors and the right colored wires).

Was planning on solder and shrink wrap but with new connector pins available I can at least cut down on the required splices.

 

Bobworkman,

On that truck use a firewall bulkhead plug. There is a common 66-pin metripack plug that works awesome. It comes on Buick, Olds and Pontiac's (like a 95 bonneville). You find it on the passenger side behind a plastic cover and covered by a piece of asphalt tape. Its mixed between metripack 150 and 280 series terminals. These are not like the body/headlight bulkhead plugs by the steering column, these are fully sealed.
This will make your life easy for building a cut and spliced harness. Instead of spliced wires you can terminate almost everything to this plug from both sides.
BTW, there is an easy way to remove the firewall side without going under the dash. You unscrew the connector and push it onto the firewall hole and rotate it enough to start clipping the wires off. then you can work it out through the hole. Disassemble it, clean it up and throw it in the dish washer, looks like new.
I've use a few of these on street rod conversions and am about to use another one on my 54 pickup. I built an adjustable bracket on the back of my engine stand to position one of these plugs anywhere I wish to make harnesses easier to build. I've even now taken to using a standardized pinout on all the harnesses I build, which makes things easily interchangable. With proper planning you can run all your engine wiring through this.

 

Thanks for the great tip, I wondered about doing a firewall disconnect but was not sure the sensor signals would stand up to using a connector. Using it would solve 2 problems: 1st fixing the harness wihich was butchered at the firwall in the bird (as well as other places), secondly I will be setting this engine and another up on an engine test stand. I can wire the engines for final use and have a stub on the engine test stand with only the stuff I need there. May take a bit of looking to find the right models. I am in Canada and although similar models are not always the same. Still gives me an excuse to go to the 'pick a part yards' and keeps me out of the better halfs hair.

thanks

 

Thats where I get mine. I usualy leave with a bag full of various metri-pack connectors, most clipped off right at the connector, but some with pigtails. I then spend an evening de-pinning them all and puting all the pieces in the ultrasonic cleaner for a while. Alternatively I sometimes use fishing line to string everyting together (like the rubber grommets) and put it in the dish washer (after pre-cleaning of course). I'm so very very happy with the results now that I build harnesses this way, its well worth the effort.
Be sure to post pics of the progress on your truck.

 

So did you use a plan to develop this standardized layout or did it just sort of evolve? Do you have a copy and are you willing to share?
Seems like a waste of time re-inventing something that has already been done.

Checked the WaytekWire site and posted a few opinion queries on using these for low voltage EFI signals. Waytek says thet are good for low voltage circuits so I will plan on using them.

 

They are fine for EFi signals, thats what they are designed for.
Sometime I'll post my standardized pinout when I get a chance. No problem.