Craig, this is why we need to see a datalog. I'm sure everyone was assuming the way you explained it that from a dead stop you went wide open throttle and seen 36* at 3500-RPM then 28* as it got higher, when that is not the case. Looking at your bin, it seems that the way you are explaining it, you are cruising at 3500-RPM seeing 36* of timing (kpa is hovering in the 60 kpa area of the graph) then you floored the throttle and observed timing going down, correct? Look at your SA Main Table on the right of the graph and you will see why;

 

Ok so im looking at isnt then numbers suppose to be higher at a higher map reading then the lower ones ???? What should i do from here then

 

When your cruising between 2500-RPM through 3500-RPM you will want the timing to be where it already is, and the kpa is usually hovering in the center of the graph inline with the RPM when you're cruising. When you go wide open throttle from there, the RPM of course goes up, but then so does the kpa value, so you will want to look at your RPM vs 100-kpa section. If you look carefully you will see that it is averaging around 28* in the 100-kpa section, so if you want your total timing to be higher at wide open throttle you will want to add to the 100-kpa line in increments from 3000-RPM all the way up. Don't add too much, just a little at a time until you are happy with where it is. Shoot for 34* total and see how you like it, just keep an eye out for knock...

 

Yea street lethal thats the thing though im not cruising with this car yet it is no where near ready to be on the road still gotta do the sfc connectors body paint interior etc etc

 

You don't have to be cruising. Even if you hold the throttle in Park/Neutral at part throttle the RPM will be at 3500-RPM and the kpa will still be at 50-60kpa, which is set to target around 36* of timing as per the table you are using, and then when you give it more and more throttle the RPM will rise along with the kpa. Your total timing is off, not your part throttle/cruise timing. You need to correct the higher kpa values after 3000-RPM when your total timing is meant to be brought in. Again, if you look at your 100-kpa column, it is averaging 28*, those are the values that are being commanded. If you want them raised, you have to raise them one by one until you are content with it. Different bins come with different timing tables, and stock bins were never intended for that much total timing, nor that high of RPM. You have to customize it, which is easy, just raise the 100-kpa column in increments until you are happy and where you want to be with it...

 

Need to change it a little:

...just raise the 100-kpa column in increments until the engine is happy and where the engine wants to be with it...

RBob.

 

Ok so im raising the 100kpa in the main and extended table correct or just the extended table

 

From 3000-RPM and up in the 100kpa column, so both tables...

 

So how much am i raising it i know the value gets increase but should i do it by 5 and try that

 

If you're already averaging 28* in the 100-kpa column when you go wide open throttle, try increasing each value above 3000-RPM by 2* first and watch where it takes you. If you feel you need more than 30* total then add another 1* to 2* to each value. It's trial and error. Don't just throw 5* at all the values just yet, do it slowly and in small increments...

 

Ok everyone was playing around on it tonight i have been increasing the kpa 100 column by 2.00 percent in the sa main table and extended table and have noticed some change in smoothing out but as soon as i get up to 3300-3500 rpm it starts to pull back timing again so where do go from should i keep increasing the column by 2 and see how it goes from there i may have found someone out in bristol rhode island that i might be able to get the car out to him and he can self tune it for me but until then im gonna keep tinkering with it and see if i get any closer to fully smoothing it out all the way to 6000 rpm

 

Adding the value of 2.00 in percent form to the values already in the 100-kpa column will take double the time to reach 34* of timing, because 2% of 28* is only .56, so it will take you ten to eleven times to reach 34* of timing. When you are in Tuner Pro, just highlight 3000-RPM and down in the 100-kpa column and replace those values with 34.00 then hit "Fill w/Value" in the Function drop down box, then hit save. No need to smooth it out...

 

possibly knock is not timing related? could be mechanical.

 

What would cause a mechanical knock the bottom end has like 6000 miles on since rebuild oil pressure doesnt drop below 30 psi fully warmed up and idling only knock that incould think of is from the rockers maybe being to tight from doing the valve lash

 

Anything that goes bang-bang. Loose exhaust. U joint/driveline/gearbox. AC compressor. My snowmobile set off a KC's until it was broken in. Fix was adding a thin plastic washer under sensor. Some sensors are very sensitive.

Adding high octane fuel 100+ temporary is a way to rule out mechanical.

 

there is no loose exhaust I do have a small exhaust leak out of the header but that really shouldn't throw the knock sensor off nothing in steering is loose and the ac compressor isn't hooked up for the compressor to kick on and off.


I actually found a guy out in Bristol ri that the car is gonna go to, to get tuned fully he knows the ebl set up very well he will also be able to put it on the dyno and fully get it dialed in he is also willing to weld in my sfc all of this for 600 bucks so I cant pass this down

 

166 posts and still not tuned? Someone should be ashamed!

 

167 posts, and he was given the information needed to get his EBL hooked up, engine started, and running. There is only so much after that in which tuners can suggest online without visually seeing that elusive datalog we kept asking for pages ago...

 

My apologies, if he won't log it can't be tuned.

 

who should be ashamed this is my first time trying to figure this out beginners need to start off somewhere to figure somethin new out but yes it is aggravating that its not fully running right yet these guys sure helped out a lot though its awesome that they put time into replying I can upload a datalog to see if you can figure out where I'm going wrong at maybe u can see something that everyone and myself is missing

 

Ok so i know i havent posted in a while i was wondering if the knock sensor would be the main cause of timing backing out ???? I pulled the knock sensor and found out the part number is a original so its about 25+ years old. I decided to take it out and found out that it had tons and tons of rust built up on top of it and also the spring inside was all corroded would this give a reason for timing to back off when above 3500 rpm

 

A bad knock sensor being replaced with a good one can only help things.

It would be great to sit the car in the driveway, datalog for a couple of minutes and then share that.

It's not too hard- use the WUD, create a session, close it out, and then attach it.

There's nothing to be ashamed of- no one expects your BIN to be perfect or that your car and set up is somehow bad.
Everyone here wants to help. You know you want some help otherwise you wouldn't be here.

It's just that everyone here is blind with respect to what you have going on.

If you share a datalog- any datalog at this point- we can look for things.

 

Soarestransam- you are making progress. I think you are learning a lot too.

Keep plugging away!

 

Bringing a dead post back to life so everyone is back at it after redoing the exhaust, oil pan etc. motor is back in the car didn't change a damn thing expect headman headers and custom y pipe with cat. I recently got the exhaust done and everything went great with it car ram was idling etc. now all the sudden car doesn't want to idle for anything replaced the iac thinking that was it nope still noting did the whole reset key on disconnect iac plug key off plug back in, turn key on should reset go to start same thing no idle. I'm getting really f ing fed up with this f ing ebl you all said it would be simple but clearly not and trying to get rbob to help is like hitting a million f ing dollars will never happen. Another thing too is that no freaking shops around my area want to deal with it cause they never heard of this shitty tuning program so now what I'm just out 500.00 for all the money I invested into this could of had a LS built and in the car somewhat ready to go off to be tuned

can anybody help out with this that knows what the hell could be wrong

 

First off you need to claim down. Alright after reading most of this thread. The Dynamic EFI EBL is a great product if you have great math, reading and mechanical skill. You have had this product for over 2 years now and I have notice a few things. First I've notice you do not give all the info or don't explain everything to the fullest. Second based on you questions that you have asked and the replies you get along with the you responses back. you either don't under stand and or you are choosing not to follow those steps everyone has posted to help you figure what is going with your car. Either way you need to clam down and help us help you by data logging and post it or move and realize true tuning may not for you.

 

key on engine OFF are you seeing a blink of CEL then full on? If that is Ok that means the .bin is being used and is not corrupt.

In your data logs are you getting any error codes?

You could disconnect the IAC and run solely off the throttle stop screw to rule out the IAC issue. Make sure the IAC port is plugged so as not to have that leak. I ran mine that way for a year as IAC was not functioning due to cross wired. Possibly IAC is not opening and throttle blades are not open far enough to allow idle.

Datalogs posted would be helpful and will diagnose most ills.

 

ok guys I know I haven't been on in a while been busy with other things so was playing on the car and noticed it's definitely a iac problem. As soon as you plug it in you see the steps slowly decrease on the wud. But if you unplug it and start the car it will idle at 950-1000 rpms im gonna try to upload a data log of it tomorrow so you can all see what the hell is going on

 

I am not sure but I recall that the WU display shows commanded steps not actual physical position of the pindle. I would look at the IAC when engine cold key on engine off to see if it cycles open...closed... and then to open at cold coolant position before you crank. That would indicate it is functioning.

 

Ok so was playing around on it again last night car runs somewhat smooth with the iac disconnected as soon as you plug it dies out I removed the iac and tested to see if it would open and it doesn't move at all I'm getting power out of 2 pins and that's it. Now when I did the pin change I looked it over and the iac has nothing to do with the pin change to switch it over from factory harness to ebl speed density harness. So the harness pin change isn't the problem I'm really stumped on this what the hell could it be for not letting the iac energize.

 

IAC can be tested with a multimeter....

https://www.reference.com/vehicles/c...6f1be3dbc1c407

 

Ok so I decided I'm giving up on this ebl program going a different route not able to figure this crap out. Thought it was gonna be easy but clearly not I'll be posting it up on the classified ecm and harness. I wanna thank you guys for throwing your knowledge. I would like to sell it on here to someone that knows tuning and could need it for their build.

 

I never saw this thread, else I would have offered to help some time ago. I'm about 2 hours north of New Bedford.

What system are you going to go with ?

-- Joe