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Laptop/Netbook;
Pretty much any windows based pc from the last 10 years will work. Make sure the battery is good! You don't want it dying in the middle of logging or incapable or doing it. I use an acer netbook with the 3 cell battery and it lasts me 4 solid datalogs and editing in between at the track.
Prom Adapter WITH 2 Proms; This snaps into your ECM where your stock Memcal was. The memcal directly plugs into this and with the 2 proms that come in this package you program them and connect to the same adapter (only one at a time). This is the easiest way, though there are other ways.
moates.net http://www.moates.net/gp1-package-gm....html?cPath=64
$55
Software:
Tuning Software;For Changing the actual tune.
Tunerpro RT
Where to buy: Http://www.TunerPro.net $Free, $30 to eliminate 10 second delay window
Datalogging Recording car data while running to watch tune actually run in car.
Or whichever wideband you prefer. A wideband setup is ideal to monitor actual Air/fuel for fine tuning fueling. It is NOT advised to tune your fueling without one, though it can be done to an extent. Make sure you can datalog the wideband with RPM as this is important.
Install tuner pro from tunerpro.net
Open application.
Pay for the application! Or wait for the countdown to finish and click continue.
From Menus at top: XDF -> Select XDF.
Then find your downloaded XDF file and select it.
From Menus at top: File -> Open Bin.
Then find your downloaded BIN file and select it.
From Menus at top: Acquisition -> Load Definition file.
Then find your downloaded ADS or ADX file and select it.
This should automatically load every time you open tunerpro now.
You should now be able to "tune" your stock bin file and save to a new bin file to program to a prom.
When saving .bins it is best to either date them or come up with a way to trace versions easily in case you need to revert to a previous file. This happens to even the best tuner in the world so make sure you keep a log of changes and have versions you can keep track of.
What I found was needed to datalog:
RESTART COMPUTER after driver install.
In this order works for me every time:
Open Tunerpro.
Plug in cable to computer.
Plug in cable to car.
Turn key to on.
Check to see if communicating at bottom of window.
If using the amazon Prom Burner here's a screenshot of some settings to get you started.
Last edited by Vanilla Ice; Mar 24, 2016 at 07:06 PM.
I'm going to be watching this like a Hawk. Most of the other PROM info is so old and out of date many of the links no longer work or reference old programs.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this, I am in the process of assembling my tool list to get started.
In the Moates site they list the "Ostrich, 2.0 unit" as a recommended purchase, can you give me your opinion on emulators and if they are really worth the cost ($175 Moates) and how exactly would it help a beginner?
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this, I am in the process of assembling my tool list to get started.
In the Moates site they list the "Ostrich, 2.0 unit" as a recommended purchase, can you give me your opinion on emulators and if they are really worth the cost ($175 Moates) and how exactly would it help a beginner?
Your input please
Regards
As a beginner, skip it in my opinion. That only makes one more thing to learn and understand, it will only make it more complex. Especially if you don't know why you'd want/need it. Start with a basic set up and learn that. You can always buy an emulator later.
I use that burner too (the mini-pro). It works great for me. What I like about it compared to something like a burn2 is that its a general purpose chipe burner, so you can do all sorts of other things with it. Even program microcontrollers like Pic's and such.
All i do is save my .bin file while working in tunerpro, and then switch to the mini-pro program and load the bin and then burn it. Couple extra clicks, not quite as convenient as being able to control it through tunerpro directly, but no big deal at all really.
http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?products_id=3935&gclid=CJniiLOEy8wCFRCOaQodytEHKA Take a look here, I'm not sure if it would work as an emulator for our cars but seems like it would by reading chip sizes.
For reference to those of us getting into tuning and datalogging, is there a place in Tuner pro Rt 5 to set a higher sample rate?
During my initial tests the sample rate at the bottom of the screen is only 0.7 Hz
It is data logging at 160 baud. To get a faster update rate (8192 baud), need a 10K resistor across A & B of the ALDL connector. Once the ECM starts transmitting at the higher rate remove the resistor. I am assuming that you are referring to the car in your mini-sig.
I would like to request from the group, once you have connected to the ECM and are datalogging / seeing data in realtime, what are the key stats that should be expected? Hopefully by knowing these a good baseline / good sensor operation can be determined before proceeding. Things like
* start in open loop / move to closed loop / in-out of closed loop normal?
* engine temp (duh)
* RPM (duh)
* sample rate (already mentioned)
* O2 readings / BLM
* etc
Maybe I missed it in looking thru the older threads.
Actually even before checking baseline stats from the ECM I suggest making sure (that is double checking)
*Fuel pressure is good
* timing advances
* compression is good
* no vacuum leaks
* no plugs are fouled
* battery and alternator are working properly
* cooling fans cycle properly
I am starting my adventure into PROM programming. Was contemplating for a lot of time but this thread encouraged me and bought all the kit. Got the Amazon programmer, have the red devil OBD reader and have a JET adapter which I will be removing the DIP socket and install a ZIFF socket.
The stock PROM has code AKXZ which is correct for the car. I do not know what tune the aftermarket JET chip has (D27128A20) and I would like to start from a stock tune (engine is mostly stock, just bored 0.060). Can someone provide me with a stock bin for the AKXZ so I burn it into a new eeprom and start from there? ECU is 01227165. Thanks
Can someone provide me with a stock bin for the AKXZ so I burn it into a new eeprom and start from there? ECU is 01227165. Thanks
I don't have AKXZ, but here is AKXY. From my understanding it is for the same vehicle and driveline but doesn't have VATs enabled. Which is only an option flag away from being enabled.
Cool thanks!! Yes I read the AKXY is same but without VATS. I guess all I will ned to do is just enable the option flag as my VATS system is still working fine.
One other question, would I be able to read the bin off the JET chip to be able to compare stock and current one? Is that possible?
Oh man.... it's guys like you doing the yoeman's work to make life easier for the rest of us. Without S_AUJP there's no way I"d still have the Miniram on the car. There's no freaking way I would have gotten tuned to my satisfaction.
Oh man.... it's guys like you doing the yoeman's work to make life easier for the rest of us. Without S_AUJP there's no way I"d still have the Miniram on the car. There's no freaking way I would have gotten tuned to my satisfaction.
what was so important from saujp?
Im currently testing my MAT timing compensation and MAT VE compensation.
BY FAR the AE parameters that aren't available in any other xdf or Tunercat.
But also open loop idle and WB reporting in Tunerpro.
interesting. I was going to possibly work on tip in. I was also wanting to work on super lean idle. Maybe I should look at their tables.
I did change mine to allow KR at idle already for this.
i was also considering a load based timing and ve setup.
do they have that?
I need to look at their stuff again. I wanted to see the code and I asked to help and got ignored so I went my own way. Unfortunate because I got a lot done.
id already have flex fuel built if I didn’t have to do it all alone. I wrote it all for my previous car and never used it since I sold it for the third gen.
Engine setup?
Drivetrain?
Stock chip? If so, can you see the 4 letter broadcast code on it? Example... AUJP... ANJF, etc...
Current running condition?
I just picked up a 1990 Trans Am GTA 5.7 automatic that's been sitting since 2006. Got it home yesterday and washed it. Guess I'll start by swapping all fluids and filters and see if she will run.
