So to start off, my father is selling me his 1990 Camaro that is currently not running. It hasn’t been running for approximately 15-17 plus years due to the fuel pump going out. At least that’s what he told me every time I asked him why it wasn’t running. He never had time to fix it since he works offshore and never felt like dropping the axle to the car to get the tank down when he did have time. Or didn’t want to cut a panel out to get to it through the trunk, I kind of don’t blame him myself because I kinda don’t want to do that either. I’m looking to get it up and running a soon as possible while being on a tight budget and doing some light modifications. I plan on doing a full tune up, flushing the engine oil, not flushing the transmission fluid but changing that out too, and changing what needs to be changed to get it running again. I’d like to find a good performance fuel pump and fuel filter for the car, so any suggestions for that will be awesome. I’m also looking for a new wiring harness for the car (chances are high that a mouse or a squirrel chewed them), hoping to find one cheap but decent or good quality. I have been dreaming of seeing this car running again ever since it stopped, so I’d be extremely appreciative for any positive feedback to get me going in the right direction. Other details about the car: the current engine isn’t the original, he apparently had cooling problems and had to put in a refurbished crate engine in to solve that issue. He told me that the engine had roughly less than 50,000 miles on it before it stopped running. It’s believed that the internals are still good, a mechanic was able to get the crank pulley to turn over with a ratchet about two years ago. That’s about it on what I know of the condition of the car other than the inside of the car. (Note: I would love to post pictures but all of them are too big to post appropriately.)

Exciting!!

Are you running a TBI or TPI?

I've had the fuel tank out of mine 3 different times. I had no need to drop the axle but it certainly needs to hang as low as possible. Being that its been sitting that long chances are you'll need a tank or a really good cleaning. Worth checking the fuel pump relay first but none-the-less, with the car sitting for so long worth dropping the tank to have a looksy.

Recommended 350 TBI modifications | TBI

The link above is a good resource for mods that I've had great success with. I've done the higher volume Fuel Pump, adjustable fuel regulator and throttle body mods.

Best of luck and happy tank drop.

My father said it’s a tbi. And thanks for letting me know that I won’t have to completely drop the axle, not something I was looking forward to at all lol. I do need to ask one other question, do you suggest just going ahead and pulling the engine and changing all the gaskets before trying to get it started? My father keeps saying that I should but a mechanic I worked with at a part store says that he recommends me to get it running and only replace whatever gaskets leak. Which would you agree to?

Overall, my opinion would be to try and get it running first to then see where it leads you next. Just my opinion though. For what's its worth I have a crate motor from 2001 with 66K miles on it. Redid the intake manifold last year but other than those no significant gasket failures. With 50K or so on the motor if it was leaking you should see some witness marks which may lead you to what you may need to address but perhaps after running confirmation. My initial response is to leave it in place with the idea of getting it running first. Pulling the motor and replacing on the gaskets to only find out that it was not worth the effort seems time and energy wasted.

May be worth pulling the plugs and putting some oil in the cylinders. While the plugs are out and soaking it may be worth validating that it still turns over while lubricating the rings. You could do a compression check to help determine its health before checking for spark and fuel.

I would rebuild the TBI, change the fuel filter, flush out the lines and drop the tank as you suggest.

Crawl, walk, run would be my approach for someone with not so deep pockets.

Ok so, even if the motor didn’t run for 15-17 plus years the gaskets should theoretically be fine and not dry rotted? I should just be able to change what needs to be changed to get it running and then look for leaks? It does make me feel more confident with two people suggesting the same thing. I apologize for asking for further clarification, I just want to make sure I do it right and not mess up the engine.

I was told something similar about removing the spark plugs but instead of oil, I was told pb blaster. Is that an ok substitute or stick with the oil? I was told that the pb blaster will get any water out that might be in there.

Also, is Painless the only place that I’ll be able to find a good wiring harness? It’s $430 from them. I’m just wanting to see if there’s any other trustable sources to look at first for better pricing.

Any sources for rebuilding the TBI? I currently drive a 2002 impala with the 3800, so everything with the Camaro is going to be new territory to me.

And with your mod suggestion list, I seen that at the beginning it said 350, all of those will still work for the 305?

Ok so, even if the motor didn’t run for 15-17 plus years the gaskets should theoretically be fine and not dry rotted? I think you would be fine to get it going. Once running, you'll be able to assess their condition. I should just be able to change what needs to be changed to get it running and then look for leaks? Given its age and the low number of miles I think you'd be okay to forgo an initial gasket overhaul. It does make me feel more confident with two people suggesting the same thing. I apologize for asking for further clarification, I just want to make sure I do it right and not mess up the engine.

I was told something similar about removing the spark plugs but instead of oil, I was told pb blaster. Is that an ok substitute or stick with the oil? Assuming the rings are not frozen coating them in oil and letting them soak should help with initial start-up. Should they be frozen (determined by gently rotating the main crank with a 3/4" socket) the amount of resistance should help determine your approach. I was told that the pb blaster will get any water out that might be in there. That and Seafoam work the same. Before reinstalling the plugs you'll want to turn it over and get whatever lubricant/cleaner out before hand - so a desiccant really is a futile effort/approach IMO.

Also, is Painless the only place that I’ll be able to find a good wiring harness? It’s $430 from them. I’m just wanting to see if there’s any other trustable sources to look at first for better pricing. Never ventured down that route but I've only heard good things about Painless wiring. You'll want to ensure it has all factory plugs/receptacles which I believe this brand does.

Any sources for rebuilding the TBI? I currently drive a 2002 impala with the 3800, so everything with the Camaro is going to be new territory to me. Personally, I would simply buy a rebuilt kit first and replace all the gaskets and pressure regulator. Any youtube video can be searched and followed as a guide. I would go that route first with the idea of getting it going initially.

And with your mod suggestion list, I seen that at the beginning it said 350, all of those will still work for the 305? It all applies. I also think there is a section in there for 305's as well. Well worth the time to poke around that website - all very useful information.

A few things you will need: new battery, fresh fuel, oil, coolant, gear oil, brake fluid and trans fluid (filters too). Not cheap, but doable. Second on the list of "parts for thinger that sat two decades" are tires, ignition components, hoses, and a place to put it out of the rain cause weatherstrip ain't cheap. Starting to get expensive here.

Step one: drain all old fluids. If you cant get to all, drain and clean the fuel tank, lines, and throttle body first. Do the fuel pump and don't fret about dropping the tank; the rear axles in these cars are a breeze to remove if needed, especially compared to more modern cars, takes a few hand tools and a couple hour/beers (official measurement of time in shade tree mechanecking). Clean the tank out with rags and fresh gas, then evaluate/replace/reinstall the tank after disconnecting the fuel lines at the throttle body and blowing them out and/or flushing them.

Step two: put fresh gas, oil, and battery in the car, turn engine over by hand twice, attempt to start, troubleshoot from there.

I wouldn't mess with the ignition system or plugs until it fires, if you are worried about cylinder wall rust use a fogger like seafoam when cranking to help coat them and spray it down the intake while cranking.

You are going to find sooooo many problems after it gets hot the first time, save your worrying (and money) for later when you positively identify what is broke. Sure the spark plugs are crap, but if they fire for now, who cares? Radiator leaking like a pissing cow? May want to address that guy first. Wiring harness? That is the absolute last resort, last time I checked crimp connectors are running $5 for 100 on amazon, fix that stuff- the reason you got a project car was to learn anyways right? If not, its part of the bargain, trust me. Have fun and figure out your budget, double it, then cry tears of frustration and joy while you fix then drive your dad's car.

I am grateful for all the advice the two of you gave me. But I’m back with another; maybe more if I need further insight.

So the car was never placed under any kind of cover to shelter it from the weather. The hood could never be completely closed because my dad’s ex (was current girlfriend at the time) bent the latch out of place. On top of that, she took a shovel to the windshield and bashed it pretty nicely. There is a sure sign of moisture and or water getting into the car, moss literally going on one of the back seats. Other than that and the smell of mold/mildew, there’s no other tire since of water damage to the inside. I plan on eventually replacing the carpet and trying to either replace the seats of find a way to get them absolutely cleaned and sterile. Any chance that wires on the inside of the car need to be replaced? From water damage and or mice and or squirrels?

I wish I could post a couple of pictures of what I took of the inside but I keep getting a message saying the pictures are too big and no way to minimize them. But from what I can see, there doesn’t seem to be water damage to the dash under the windshield, but I’m no expert at that. The dashboard/dash pad fell apart before or after the windshield being busted, I’m not sure which, but it currently lays in the back seat.

Dash pad is discontinued from the dashboard.*

There is always potential for damaged/corroded wiring with any old car regardless of how it was stored. I got a new alternator for my scout and the soldering at the terminals broke off 4 miles later, never know when something mechanical might break. However, that would be a worry for after it runs, drives, and has a new windshield by the sounds of it.

If you get a quote from safelight and enter your email, after a few days they will send you a coupon for $50 off or some such, works every time I've needed glass recently.

Hood latch is an easy fix from a local junk yard, you will probably want to grab other stuff once you find a donor car anyways.

Leave the gaskets alone, they should be fine. Making any major changes like that just adds additional variables when troubleshooting. A standard replacement TPI and or Walbro 255 fuel pump is all you need. Both are stronger than the stock TBI unit and if you ever make a motor change you’ll want to have that extra capacity at your disposal. I echo the other comments to change the fluids but you can get it running on the old stuff. It doesn’t go bad just sitting there, except fuel, but you’ll want to change it due to moisture etc. You’ll have to assess the wiring when you strip down the interior. If critters didn’t eat them they are probably fine. You’ll have to look over all parts of the car and go from there.