GM Tech/Vader/Knowledgeables Altenator Question
#1
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Car: 2001 Camaro Z28/1995 Camaro Z28
Engine: just a little 5.7(LS1-320/340 RW)
Transmission: SMOOOOOOTH T-56/Auto. . .
Axle/Gears: 3.42 and 2.73
GM Tech/Vader/Knowledgeables Altenator Question
recently i cut the wires for my altenator...
OOPS
now i'm rewiring it and was wanting to know if this diagram looked fully functional...
------------------
Duffster (age 31)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),84' 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
Duffster_Camaro@HOTMAIL.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.
OOPS
now i'm rewiring it and was wanting to know if this diagram looked fully functional...
------------------
Duffster (age 31)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),84' 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
Duffster_Camaro@HOTMAIL.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.
#2
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Car: 2001 Camaro Z28/1995 Camaro Z28
Engine: just a little 5.7(LS1-320/340 RW)
Transmission: SMOOOOOOTH T-56/Auto. . .
Axle/Gears: 3.42 and 2.73
anyone...
...anyone...
...anyone...
#3
Duffster,
I'm still digging, but the voltmeter shouldn't be connected in series with anything. Connect it to a fuse as you have diagrammed and the negative terminal to chassis ground.
Your alternator appears to have more wires/connections than it should. What year is the alternator?
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
I'm still digging, but the voltmeter shouldn't be connected in series with anything. Connect it to a fuse as you have diagrammed and the negative terminal to chassis ground.
Your alternator appears to have more wires/connections than it should. What year is the alternator?
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
#4
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Car: 2001 Camaro Z28/1995 Camaro Z28
Engine: just a little 5.7(LS1-320/340 RW)
Transmission: SMOOOOOOTH T-56/Auto. . .
Axle/Gears: 3.42 and 2.73
1988 altenator...suprising i have something from 88 on the car
the 'B' connection is the big bolt-on cable to the battery...the other 3 are in the plug...oh....POST # 500
the 'B' connection is the big bolt-on cable to the battery...the other 3 are in the plug...oh....POST # 500
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Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
The diagram you showed is correct, except for the following:
Move the source for the S terminal from the B wire at the alt to the large lug on the starter solenoid - add a fusible link there, too - they are available from Pep Boys. The S wire is the voltage regulator sense input & should be placed at the power distribution point.
The L terminal goes to one side of the alternator "idiot light" in the cluster (not a volt meter). The other side of the light goes to the gauges fuse (+12 volt power in crank and run).
The F terminal cannot be powered by the same set of contacts (internal to the ign switch unit) as the L terminal. It should be powered from the "hot only in run" output from the ign switch - some of the things that this output usually powers are the A/C, blower motor, & windows.
Here are the alt pin defenitions:
B = Battery
S = Sense
F = Field
L = Light
Tim
Move the source for the S terminal from the B wire at the alt to the large lug on the starter solenoid - add a fusible link there, too - they are available from Pep Boys. The S wire is the voltage regulator sense input & should be placed at the power distribution point.
The L terminal goes to one side of the alternator "idiot light" in the cluster (not a volt meter). The other side of the light goes to the gauges fuse (+12 volt power in crank and run).
The F terminal cannot be powered by the same set of contacts (internal to the ign switch unit) as the L terminal. It should be powered from the "hot only in run" output from the ign switch - some of the things that this output usually powers are the A/C, blower motor, & windows.
Here are the alt pin defenitions:
B = Battery
S = Sense
F = Field
L = Light
Tim
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Car: 2001 Camaro Z28/1995 Camaro Z28
Engine: just a little 5.7(LS1-320/340 RW)
Transmission: SMOOOOOOTH T-56/Auto. . .
Axle/Gears: 3.42 and 2.73
NIFTY-NEATO-KEEN!!!
Does this mean the Voltmeter comes from something completly different?
I will wire as per prescribed above today and update
THANK YOU Vader and Tim
Does this mean the Voltmeter comes from something completly different?
I will wire as per prescribed above today and update
THANK YOU Vader and Tim
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Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
Vader's right, the voltmeter "+" terminal goes to the gauges fuse & the voltmeter "-" terminal goes to chassis ground.
Tim
Tim
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#8
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I think my sense wire on the alternator is the problem with my car not charging. Can I just rewire the sense wire and where should I wire it to? I have a 3-wire 140amp alternator.
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