it has that intermittent car wont do a thing problem with the vats...... so i replaced the starter enable relay, then the switch on the top of the collum that the rod goes into .then i bypassed the vats totally with resistors and it seemed to cure the problem but today after 3 weeks it did it again ....stick the key in and nothin.. the security light stays lit so i know it is in the vats so what do i do? i start pissin and moanin like a little bitch and an hour later boom it starts !and the light goes out like it is supposed to i check all connections and measure the resistors all is good. i cant get it to repeat,, it is so intermitten it is drivin me insane what else is left. the bypass is workin bcoz i cut a key without the pellit and it starts the car just fine for now but i feel i can trust it.. geez i need a therapist

 

You might want to check your starter if you have tried everything else. I had a lot of problems that were intermittant. The car would start fine and then kill it and it might not start again. Wait a while and it might or might not start. I changed my key cylinder in the ignition, the battery cables everything I could think of. Finally I had the starter tested again and it was worn out. I got a new one and it starts fine now. However, you might want to invest money in a good starter and a heat shield, I'm pretty sure that I'll have to replace the one I have now, but it solved the non-starting problem.

 

Dont quote me but I heard that You can put a chip in the computer from a 350 that did not have the VATS feature and that will completely eliminate it. For example maybe an 86/87 TPI chip. Correct me if I'm wrong because I'm no expert.

 

Check the wires going from the resistor connector to the module. They may be grounding out somewhere.

 

I fully understand how you feel regarding the starter problem. Despite the fact that you are getting the security light on, it may be a combination problem. I have had these sort of problems for years!!!!!!! I have replaced many batteries, 3 starters, ignition switches, clutch switch, keylocks and the problem returns! One person told me that the problem is that the solenoid is too close to the engine and gets heated up too much. He recommended separating the solenoid from the starter. He, however, disappeared before he told me how to do that!!!

My latest fix was to clean the three wire terminal where the postitive leads come together right next to the battery. I haven't had the problem for weeks!!! Why? How the hell should I know. Its a Camaro!

 

i intalled a new starter 15k miles ago, and it has a heat shield on it . so y would the security light stay lit when it is bad then it goes out like normal when it starts. by the way where is the vats control module? and would replacing it help at all? or at least i could trace the wire from the collum to the module.

 

It has to be in the VATS system. I'm not real sure on the exact location of the module but I know it is underneath the dash on the passenger side. If you can locate it, try finding the 2 wires that lead to the column and cut them somewhat long. Then splice in the connector there. This will save you from examining the wires. If it doesn't start then, it will be inside the module, which will need to be replaced or removed.

By The Way, I made this page not too long ago which might help.

http://92b4crs.tripod.com/VATS.html

 

is it a yellow box underneath the driverside panel near the ecm? hmm any one else have an idea where this module is?? or at least what it looks like?? (as i pop open onother corona)

 

I'd also like to know more precisely where the VATS module is located, since I have a faulty VATS module and have just bought a new one to replace it with, only problem is I cannot find where the VATS module is located and I don't want to tear down more than I have to find it.....

 

It's a gray box more towards the lower middle of the dash(behind it)under the heating and cooling plastic vents. Kind of above the radio pod. From what I remember(been awhile)it's bolted to the dash from behind w/4 little bolts(7 mm)--so to grab it, you'd have to drop the dash itself.
The box says "Pas" on it if I'm not mistaken.

 

Thanks!!! :hail:

I found it yesterday, and successfully replaced it. Was kinda hard to get to, but not impossible...

But after replacing it, I realize that the new VATS module doesn't want to code itself to my key, and after examining the wires to the ignition I know why, one of them must be bad.

A thing to note about VATS is that a factory new box will make your car run fine no matter what resistor is in the key as long as the two wires going to the ignition is not connected to the box.

It will not code itself unless it sees a "reasonable" resistance across these two wires.

The only thing is that the security light will illuminate all the time until the problem has been fixed and the VATS module coded to your key.

Oh well, learn another lesson, and now I have a spare VATS module in case it really *does* go bad sometime...

 

I think that yellow box is your VSS sensor's buffer. IIRC I read an article on electric speedo conversions for Firebirds back in the day and a picture was shown with a yellow box. But I could be wrong...my memory's a bit fuzzy.

As for bypassing VATS, I assume you did it where the (IIRC) white and orange wires connect, correct? If not then try there, no need in worrying about those dinky little white wires being the problem then. Otherwise I don't know what to tell you, never had any problems after I bypassed mine.

 

There is a connector between the ignition switch and the VATS module, under the fuse access panel, by the base of the steering column. I had the intermittent start prob and it turned out the connector was faulty. I just eliminated the connector and hooked the wires up to each other directly. Try that before you pursue more expensive alternatives.

 

your all wronbg it is a yellow box under the passenger side panel. drop the panel and u will see it righth there,

 

No--that's the vss. The vats box is gray and says Pas-key something on it.

 

Did you see this yellow box?

 

Yellow wire loom and yellow boxes generally notate AIR BAG goodies. Don't mess with them.

 

This is what the Passkey a.k.a VATS module looks like:

 

When I purchased my Vats unit it came with a brass non pellet key, and a blank pellet type. I had to have the pellet key cut from the master and I also had a new vats code. I do not believe the module will code itself, or will it? If so, how is it done.

 

The VATS module will code itself to the first key that is inserted in the ignition. The instructions that come with the new VATS module will tell you more in detail, but basically it's like this:

1. Install VATS module.
2. Turn ignition on/off rapidly.
3. Turn ignition on for two seconds, the off again

Now the new VATS module has matched itself against the key in the ignition lock.

A brand new VATS module will start the car without a VATS key, but with the VATS light iluminated all the time if VATS reads an infinite resistance from the ignition lock (Key with no VATS pellet or cut off VATS wiring).

 

TNX for the info. Got the module from the dealer, it had NO paperwork. I forgot that I also replaced the cylinder unit that's where the key came from.