Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

Wiring Amp

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Old Oct 12, 2000 | 06:58 PM
  #1  
92RS shearn's Avatar
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From: Wichita, KS
Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Wiring Amp

I am in the process of trying to wire an amp from my battery to inside the car. How do I run the cable from the engine bay to the inside of the car? Do I have to drill a hole or is there another way?

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Old Oct 12, 2000 | 07:19 PM
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Stuart Moss's Avatar
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From: Warrenton, VA U.S.A.
While certainly not the only way to route a wire to the inside, I did it from the passenger side, making a penatration behind the right kick panel, just below the antenna cable. That way, the cable is essentially out of view since I routed it behind/under the upper right fender lip.

Whichever way you go, remember that there should be rubber (grommet) between the wire and metal.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited October 12, 2000).]
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Old Oct 12, 2000 | 09:23 PM
  #3  
92RS shearn's Avatar
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From: Wichita, KS
Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Stuart, after you drilled through how did you feed the wire through? Im assuming you started inside the car and pushe it to the outside. Was it easy to gab it from the top when you fed it through? or was it a PITA, any little tricks i should know? just want to know what to expect.

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Old Oct 13, 2000 | 08:34 AM
  #4  
Tim Burgess's Avatar
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
One note on grounding, too. When using a remote amp, or other devices remote from the head unit, run all ground wires from the remote devices, and the head unit, to a common point. Make sure the chassis of the amp, and other remote devices are not grounded to the vehicle chassis. This will get rid of the "buzzing" noise in the system that is caused by a ground loop through the audio cable shield. If typical "local" grounding is used, an isolation transformer may be used in the audio cable to break the ground loop & get rid of the noise, as well.

Tim
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Old Oct 13, 2000 | 09:54 AM
  #5  
Stuart Moss's Avatar
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From: Warrenton, VA U.S.A.
'92,

It was somewhat difficult to feed the wire through (I used 6 guage), but with patience and persistence, it shouldn't be all that hard.

First, I fed a 12 gauge wire through from the inside, and manipulated it so that I could grab it from the engine compartment, inside of the fender area.

If you're having a hard time grabbing it from the other side, try using a piece of solid wire and make a hook at the end, then feed this wire from the engine compartment to meet the other wire so you can pull it up and out.

Once this wire is out, tape it to the wire you're using for the amp and pull it through to the inside.

FYI, cut the grommet so that you can put it around the wire once it is through the hole. If you put the grommet on before pulling the wire through, you'll probably remove the grommet when pulling the wire through.

SECOND EDIT: Actually, I now remember that I just fed the heavy gauge wire from the right kick panel to the inside fender area of the engine compartment. I didn't feed a smaller wire first to pull the permanent wire as originally stated. The wire was stiff enough for me to work it to a point close enough where I was able to either grab it with my hand or another wire from the engine compartment/fender area. I did it about two years ago, so it wasn't fresh in my mind. Sorry.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited October 13, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited October 14, 2000).]
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