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Power window motor

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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 11:07 AM
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tiogarider's Avatar
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Power window motor

My motor in my window died. Does anyone no how to replace it?
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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 12:34 PM
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From: Gardner, KS
I'm sure there are complete instuctions in the archives, but I'll give you my brief overview of them. Pull your door panel off, brace the window with a board cut to length (so it doesn't fall down when you pull the motor out), drill out the rivits holding the motor in place (I think there is 3 or 4 of them), replace the motor with the new one, and either put new rivits in or use the nuts and bolts supplied with the new motor in place of the rivits that you drilled out.
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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 12:37 PM
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Thanks. I just wasn't sure if you were supposed to drill out the rivets
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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 02:11 PM
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From: Gardner, KS
If I remember right, the new motor comes with directions too.
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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 03:11 PM
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From: Livermore, Ca. US
Car: Firebird SSA
Engine: 3.1
Transmission: 700R4
I took my rivets by using a punch. What ever is comfortable to you. My Firebird I drilled out, Fiero I punched out. FYI...
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Old Mar 18, 2001 | 12:28 AM
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From: mayfield, OH
Car: 82 Trans am
Engine: Twin turbo 350
Transmission: T-56
There is a real good article in the tech articles section by Vader i think.
Just be sure if you are replacing the motor only and not the whole regulator-motor-rail guide assembly, you need to keep the spring loaded gear from flying loose. This can be very painful. I just got the complete setup from a donor car, swapped the whole thing, and put new rivets in. It was relatively painless.
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Old Mar 18, 2001 | 12:46 PM
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Tio,

Before you get all excited about replacing the window regulator motor, make sure the motor is getting power from the switch (both +12VDC AND ground, since the switch provides both). A good percentage of the time, the problem is with the switch, and it's a good idea to eliminate that first.

If the switch is providing both power and ground to the motor, check the plastic end of the motor. The metal tabs that hold the end in place can be bent back and the cap removed. The chances of the brushes being bad or non-existant are pretty good. You can clean out the motor with electromotive cleaner, let it dry, and install new brushes with an almost 100% success rate every time. The original rivets stay intact, so the motor doesn't work its way loose and begin to rattle in the door later.

If you find the brushes are O.K. and need to replace the motor, you haven't lost anything but time. If you can replace the brushes and get the motor working, the rest of the installation will remain as good as stock.

If you have the ¼" rivet setter (about $160.00), you can remove the rivets and install new ones. The motor gets a lot of torque and tends to loosen if installed with bolts - even Loctite doesn't cure it.

This is also a very good opportunity to clean and regrease the guides with white lithium grease. This should make life easier for the motor for the next ten years or so.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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Old Mar 18, 2001 | 04:15 PM
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If you need a little more detail, check this file:

Power Window Motor.pdf

You'll need Adobe Acrobat reader to view/pring the file.

------------------
Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited March 18, 2001).]
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