Third brake light
i don't know if your rear hatch is like my 89er. but next to the pull down motor, there is a box with metal contacts in it. it's got like 4 silver contacts. then, on the hatch itself theres the connector box with 2 prongs sticking out that sits on the deck when closed. if u press the brake with the hatch open, it wont light because it doesn't have power. so, i recommend that you check the contacts (might have to pull the panel out) check the wires, connections, etc. also, it wouldn't hurt to check all the fuses.
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"WARNING: Objects in mirror are about to disappear VERY quickly!"
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"WARNING: Objects in mirror are about to disappear VERY quickly!"
thanks, i've actually checked all that and it all seems fine. i've checked everything (well obviously not everything) im gonna give it another try but could there be something else im missing?
I had the same problem w/mine, someone cut the pwr lead to the contact. Check that too.
I spliced into a brake light wire, so when I stepped on the brake the 3rd light worked.
Make sure you don't splice into the blinker wire. This is a 2 person job.
I spliced into a brake light wire, so when I stepped on the brake the 3rd light worked.
Make sure you don't splice into the blinker wire. This is a 2 person job.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,370
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I had the same problem on my 86 Sport Coupe. Also try shifting around the light assembly. I had to wedge something thin under it at the end near the roof. Seems it wasnt making contact with the grid in the glass.
Prep,
Also check the two connections at the rear hatch strut lower ends. These can get pulled off easily. The connection between the foils on the glass and the lamp housing itself are not all that impressive, either.
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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Also check the two connections at the rear hatch strut lower ends. These can get pulled off easily. The connection between the foils on the glass and the lamp housing itself are not all that impressive, either.
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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I had the same problem with my '88. I had to bend a few of the bulb's metal leads out a ltiile to make proper contact in the socket. They have worked fine ever since.
Also, please read my post about third tail lights. Any help appreciated..
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Ed Miller
Charlotte, NC
1991 RS, 305 TBI,
bone stock driver;
1988 IROC L98
TPIS Fast Pack, modified MAF, MSD 6A, Dynomax cat-back so far.
"Do you want to race or don't ya? I want to race." Dale Earnhardt
Also, please read my post about third tail lights. Any help appreciated..
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Ed Miller
Charlotte, NC
1991 RS, 305 TBI,
bone stock driver;
1988 IROC L98
TPIS Fast Pack, modified MAF, MSD 6A, Dynomax cat-back so far.
"Do you want to race or don't ya? I want to race." Dale Earnhardt
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I don't know if your contact is made through 3 metal prongs pushed onto 3 metal plates when your hatch is closed. Mine is like that. All i did to fix mine was to clean those metal plates with steel wool.
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87 Iroc-Z 305 TPI
Dynomax exhaust
modified MAF & airbox
3-10" JL subs
Eclipse components
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87 Iroc-Z 305 TPI
Dynomax exhaust
modified MAF & airbox
3-10" JL subs
Eclipse components
Like the previous guy said about the crack in the housing, I had the same problem. Check this to make sure the sun hasn't cracked it over time. I had to use superglue and a clamp to get the housing to hold together again and then the brake light worked fine.
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