i had a stock ignition, with my plugs gapped at .035 and running 12 degrees advanced. now i have a hypertec cap, rotor and coil..plus the MSD 6A that is going on it this weekend, and with all that im gonna gap my plugs to .50. should i try to bump up any?? iv heard that better ignition can lead to more advance, which leads to more power, but i just want to run it by you guys first.

 

ttt

 

sorry i asked

 

Well, first it helps to have as much info about your car as possible. That's why this board has a "Signature" section. That way you can post what model your car is, what year it is, what engine it has, what mods you've done, etc. That's all very useful info.

You're Logon Name doesn't help a whole lot because I don't know if you car's a 92, or you're 92. And are you the fattie or is your car, or are the tires fat, etc.?

Running 12* advanced on a carbed car isn't all that uncommon, but it's kinda high for EFI. But I don't know what you have.

Tell me more, and maybe I can help more.

AJ

 

sorry bout the lack of info i included my sig in this one (it usualy does it automoatic but it didnt on the first psot).....

well like my sig says, its a mild 350 bored over. my carb is getting rebuilt saturday (cc qjet), were gonna trick it out as much as possible. my ignition will be toped off with a MSD box hopefully saturday also as i stated above. im trying to fix a high RPM stuter that i have been having thats y i got the ignition and rebuilding the carb. the engine has around 3500 miles on it since the rebuild. i have been running a crappy 15.6-15.8 at the track and this should be a 14.5 sec car easy. when we set the timing we didnt push it past 12 cause we didnt want to push it to far, but i guess it doesnt hurt to try, but i wnat some info before i do.

that bout sums it up..... that enough for you?

 

Looks like you've got a nice combo going there.

Yes that info helps (kinda). That's kinda low compression to even try and get more than 12* initial timing out of. I gotta 305 in a 83 1/2 ton with 8.2:1 comp (factory specs) and if I go a "C" hair past 10*, it knocks like it's got gravel in it. Needless to say, I keep it around 8-9* just to be safe.

On the other hand, I've had a '72 Nova with 11.5 comp. ratio (with the right cam of course) and could run 18* initial all day long. And that was with 462 camel hump heads (IRON). But I didn't. I usually kept it ~12*, then had 38* by 3500 RPM.

I guess all I can say is try it. Normally you're static comp. really doesn't dictate what kinda timing you can run as much as cylinder pressure does. Plus your timing curve is VERY important. You can run 6* initial, but have total set at 36* @ 2500 RPM if your cylinder pressure will allow it.

Running a stronger spark will complete the burn better, which will allow you to advance a little (maybe 2-3*) but that's it. Pay more attention to your total timing and at what RPM it comes in at.

Another example is a 74 Camaro I had with a 406. I could run the initial as high as 12* but couldn't run more that 32* total, and couldn't have it come in any sooner than 4200 RPM otherwise she'd knock like hell cruising above 45MPH.

AJ

 

well i should make one thing clear...all i know about timing, is HOW to set it. i dont know what initail timing, base timing, total timing is. i just know how to set it while the car is at idle. can you clear some of that up for me? how do i tell when it all comes in at, just rev it in neutral? iv also never heard a engine knock or ping, but im sure ill know it when i hear it......im just looking for the most power out of this thing as i can get. iv got 4 banger import friends running 14.7's that i need to teach.

 

Your base and initial timing are the same. That's what you know how to set.

The total timing, and the timing curve is something that you can also change that will also help gain more power.

IIRC, your car has mechanical advance as well as vacuum advance right? Or am I mistaken?

If it's computer controlled, the only thing you can easily change is the base timing. And again, you know how to do that.

If it's mechanical advance then there's a lot you can do. But first you need a timing light with one of those dials on the back that go up to ~100* total timing. OR you can use timing tape.

Let me know which stock ignition you have (mech or CC) and I'll go from there.

Until then, just set your base timing as far as you can until you hear knock. And "YES" you will know it when you hear it, IF you hear it. You may not if you have a CC ignition.

If it's CC then you have a knock sensor and the computer will hear knock WAY before you ever will. Then the only way to tell if you have the timing advanced enough or too much is 1/4 mile ET and Trap Speed.

Just keep going up in 2* increments on your timing until you lose ET/Trap Speed (Speed is more of a way to tell than ET), then back it off 2*. This will also work on mech. advance in case you can't hear any knock.

Easy enough? Feel free to email me or PM me anytime.

AJ

 

i have a CC distributor...and after the 350 swap i dont know if i have a knock sensor. i dont think i ever found the one on the 305 .....ohh well, ill just have to listen very good...also it seems like everyone says that you want the most timing you can get without detonation, but according to you i guess there is a fine line.

 

No. That's right. You do want the most timing without detonation. That's why I said back it off 2* after you hear knock. That'll keep you below that fine line.

All I'm saying is there's more to timing than just the base timing. The timing advances even more than your base timing as RPM increases. How much it advances and at what RPM is also a way to modify the timing.

It's all knowledge, and you'll get it in due time. If you have a CC ignition, then you'll do all the adjusting of the timing curve with a computer.

AJ

 

thanks for all your help, ill let you know how it goes.

 

Im also having problems which I think are timing related. About 200 feet before the trap, my car dies off at WOT and my RPMs drop almost like its going to stall. This only occurs nearing the 1/4 mile mark. My timing is at 10 degrees intial advance and I used the MSD springs and bushings so that I reach 36Deg at 2500RPM. Also, my car is dieseling real bad. My idle is at about 1100 in park. I adjusted the fuel pressure to 8psi because I got a huge backfire out of the carb and the car stalled. Please Help. Specs in sig.

 

what does "dieseling" mean?

 

When I turn the car off, it will continue to run for a couple of seconds.

 

ohh.. i used to get that when i went to the "cheap" gas stations. try getting better gas, either a better place, or a better octane reading.