ok, heres the deal. every once in a while i go to start my car and the starter wont engage. everything else works, radio, windows, but the car just wont turn over. then i let it sit for about 15 min after trying to start it and it starts right up. Now this can happen after i have just driven it or after it has been sitting for several hours, it has happend in cold and hot weather. I did take the car to auto zone and pulled the codes and one of them is Code 53... ecm did not receive the signal from the vats module. I have the original key. what is the deal. What do i do to fix it?

 

Chances are that the contacts in the lock cylinder that touch the resistor pellot in the key are worn out, or dirty. When you turn the ign on, the "security" light should turn on for about 2 seconds & then turn off, when things are functioning properly. If the "security" light never turns on, or does not turn off after a few seconds, the VATS module is not reading the correct resistance value from the key & will not allow the starter to crank, or enable the fuel injectors for 2 - 3 minutes.

 

if its not dirt in the cylinder then what do i need to do. buy a new key or is it a problem with the computer?

 

Pay close attention to the security light every time after you turn the ign on, but before you crank the starter. If the problem occurs, wiggle the key in the cylinder. If the problem clears up, then the problem is in the key / cylinder contact connection.

 

wiggling it didnt help.. i cleaned the key and tried and tried. the only thing i can do is just let it sit for about 15 min, and then it starts right up. first try...

 

I have actually worked on something similar. Turned out to be a bad VATS module. The module generates a square wave signal around 55hz. or so. I found that the one I worked on was not starting to generate a signal with the proper key and good cylinder connections. What a bitch to get to, but you should have seen HER. I suspect the module had a lazy oscillator, many times as components age they will drift out of tolerance causing what you describe. I would verify all else before buying a module, you don't want to change it unless you have to.

 

I work at a pontiac dealer and Ive seen a good many problems like this. I dont recall any on firebirds but Im thinking it may be the same type of system as all the other VATS ones. most of the time it turns out to be the wires that are going into the lock cylender being broken inside the insulation. I was never a ig fan of working on these things but we have a tester for them that plugs right into it and tells us if the pcm is getting the signal or not which is quite nice. but I would check those two wires they are white and go right into the lock cylender itself because every time the ignition switch is moved they are moved and after time get weak and break.

 

I feel your pain. I had a 92 vette. Done the same thing, except usually when I was late for work. I bought a brand new key and that fixed it for a while, but it ended up being a broken wire to the lock cyl.

 

Will just about any dealership be able to check this for me. And how much should it run?

 

Most Gm dealers should be able to check it. the only problem is that it has to act up for them to actually tell you whats wrong with it but Im just betting its the lock cylender. If you take it to a dealer tell them you just want the vats part of the lock cylender checked out and they should be able to tell you for sure.