Is it possible that a bad starter or starter selonoid can drain a battery within a week? The car has killed two optima batteries and four other batteries. I added an electric fan wired to a switch, and an alarm. I know the alarm is ok. The only thing I have noticed is twice now the starter will crank but the selenoid wont move it close enough to the flywheel. When I crank it again it starts fine. The alt. charges at 13 volts (says the gauge) Any info is really appreciated. Its gettin expensive. Jered 1983SS

------------------
save your lungs smoke an import!

 

I'd test it using a test-light. Disconnect the ground from the battery, and install the test light in-line with the ground wire, and the ground terminal on the battery. If the test light lights up, some things I'd disconnect first are the hood light (make sure doors are closed for dome light,) the alarm, etc.

If you get all the normal stuff disconnected, and there's still a current draw on the battery, I'd disconnect the starter. If the light goes out, there's your problem right there...

And 13 seems a little low for an alternator output. Should be around 14-14.5 I always thought. Good luck.

[This message has been edited by Chevy83Z28 (edited November 25, 2001).]

 

You know I have the hood light disconected, I wonder if its still bleading power? Its removed from the hood, I just put the hood back on the car. I will check it out. Thanks for the info man. I let you know what I find. Jered 1983SS

------------------
save your lungs smoke an import!

 

hey I didn't know that!! hehe..but if the light's disconnected, or you took the bulb out... then it's not going to be draining power because it's not a complete circuit. After double checking to making sure it's disconnected, I'd start looking elsewhere.

 

My Formula has a weird relay for the lights. Sometimes it will just cycle for no reason. Its only periodic, but after a week or two i have to start it other wise it drains the battery too much. Just listen for relays clicking and check out the noise if there is one. You can also check the amp draw of each circuit. You will have to pick up an ampmeter ( i think thats what they are called) check each circuit and the one with the most draw is it. I remember Vader or someone saying there should be no more than 12 mA in the enire system.

 

13V is Low. Try diconecting battery while cae is running if the car dies then your alternator is bad. I was having a shorting problem and killed a couple of batts. Other testing said alt. was good then Itried this removed and replaced now everything is working good

 

There's also an alternator shop by my house. You can pull the alternator from the car and bring it to the shop, and they'll test it out for ya. They hook it up to a cool electrical belt-driven system, and have lights that use different loads, to resemble the a/c compressor, headlights, etc. They can tell ya in a second if the alternator's bad, but it's really only good as a last check to make sure, since you have to pull the alt anyway (not such a big deal on our cars though.)

 

Yeah, after thinking about the hood light for a minute it didnt seem like that would be possible. I will try pulling the alt. There is no way a starter could drain a battery huh? The reason I say this is both the alarm and the cd are cool and I dont see how my electric fan could kill it unless I left it on which I havent. Thanks for the input guys. Jered 1983SS

------------------
save your lungs smoke an import!

 

The starter works by grounding itself thru the ignition switch and activating the solenoid. The starter to battery wire is always hot, so if you had a grounding problem (the only way it could drain the battery) on the starter the solenoid would spin.

------------------
87 TA, 305 TPI, Custom CAI, K&N, ACCEL 8mm wires,ACCEL Super-coil, ACCEL Plugs, JET TPI Airfoil, Cherry Bomb Muffler, 160* thermostat
The Phoenix Project..click to see my project car
Trans Am stuff and GIRLS, GIRLS, GIRLS!!!!!

 

I think this is wrong but not sure. The way I think it goes:
The starter has 3 wires on it. The first wire goes straight to the battery (+12V). Then there are two smaller gauge wires. One of these gets +12V from the ignition switch (in the crank only position.) I know this from installing the starter kill relay for my alarm. The third wire also gets +12V on crank only, but I don't know what it's for. The starter is grounded through its casing to the engine block.

...Am I wrong guys?

And related to the post, I'm not sure how it could cause a short in the electrical system. If the starter solenoid was spinning, wouldn't you be able to hear it? You could still check it by disconnecting the starter wire and then checking the battery for current draw though... sorry if this post seems pointless .

[This message has been edited by Chevy83Z28 (edited November 28, 2001).]

 

Chevy, you are right. The starter DOES NOT ground itself through the ignition switch. It gets 12V from the ignition switch.

------------------
1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

Your right about it getting 12V when the ignition is in the start position.

------------------
87 TA, 305 TPI, Custom CAI, K&N, ACCEL 8mm wires,ACCEL Super-coil, ACCEL Plugs, JET TPI Airfoil, Cherry Bomb Muffler, 160* thermostat
The Phoenix Project..click to see my project car
Trans Am stuff and GIRLS, GIRLS, GIRLS!!!!!

 

Just to add, the third wire on the starter supplies the ignition coil with power while the starter motor is cranking the engine.

 

The third terminal on the starter is only used for older points-style ignitions where a resistor wire (or ballast resistor) drops the supplied voltage down in the 9v range. During cranking, full 12v is applied through this terminal to assist in firing the engine.

Sustained 12 through the points would quickly burn them, however, so it's only applied during cranking.

It's not used on modern electronic-ignition cars.

[This message has been edited by afgun (edited November 30, 2001).]