ses light after cam install
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,775
Likes: 27
From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Since the problem could be anything, try pulling the code first. It's a good place to start diagnosing the problem.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,775
Likes: 27
From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Well.. I don't have much info on diagnosing a MAP sensor (which is what you should have w/a TBI).
The only thing I know to do is to test the MAP sensor signal wire (light green). With the engine running the voltage should be anywhere between o.6 - 4.ov. To see if its bad, w/the ignition on(but engine not running), test the lt green wire to see if it's over 4.8. If there's is no (physical) short to voltage (from the grey 5v reference wire I assume), then the MAP is bad. Other than that.. I'm not going to be much of an aid to you.
Also, low voltage (map) or frequency (maf), code 34, indicates a vacuum/false air leak. At least from what I know (which isn't always right
)
The only thing I know to do is to test the MAP sensor signal wire (light green). With the engine running the voltage should be anywhere between o.6 - 4.ov. To see if its bad, w/the ignition on(but engine not running), test the lt green wire to see if it's over 4.8. If there's is no (physical) short to voltage (from the grey 5v reference wire I assume), then the MAP is bad. Other than that.. I'm not going to be much of an aid to you.
Also, low voltage (map) or frequency (maf), code 34, indicates a vacuum/false air leak. At least from what I know (which isn't always right
) Last edited by deadbird; Apr 7, 2003 at 10:55 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
I think your MAP sensor itself is fine. Your new cam is producing less manifold vacuum (which is sensed by the MAP) than the old so it's throwing off the computer. I would suggest upgrading to a power chip. These chips allow for more engine mods than does a stock chip.
BTW - I have the same car as you and am looking at a new cam. Do you like the power the lt1 gives you?
BTW - I have the same car as you and am looking at a new cam. Do you like the power the lt1 gives you?
the new cam should create more vacume i thought....i mean it raised the fuel intake and everything, then again i JUST woke up and im not thinking half correct...as for power, dont know yet, ..it got dark before i could adjust the valves and timing heh.....8 am now.....time to work on this bad boy....ill let ya know if its worth the 4 days it took me to innstall this lmao
and if you do install a new cam, feel free to ask me how to do it, ...i think everyone on this board hellped me alot and let me in on every trick required to get this sucker in and working.....
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Originally posted by mdricken
I think your MAP sensor itself is fine. Your new cam is producing less manifold vacuum (which is sensed by the MAP) than the old so it's throwing off the computer. I would suggest upgrading to a power chip. These chips allow for more engine mods than does a stock chip.
I think your MAP sensor itself is fine. Your new cam is producing less manifold vacuum (which is sensed by the MAP) than the old so it's throwing off the computer. I would suggest upgrading to a power chip. These chips allow for more engine mods than does a stock chip.
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