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Electric door lock headaches

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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 03:28 AM
  #1  
RedFirebird's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: San Rafael, CA
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700RJunk
Electric door lock headaches

My power door locks will unlock fine, but when you try to lock the car, it seems like they're "struggling" to push the lock all the way. You have to press the button several times for it to actually "lock" the door. And they both do this exact same thing exactly. They seemed kinda weak when I got the car, and now I don't even bother using them. I checked the fuses, relay, and circuit breaker and they all seemed okay. I bypassed the relay and tried manually supplying power to the locks and it was the same story. I don't really know what the hell is going on with them. I wouldn't think BOTH actuators would go south at the same time?????
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 04:36 AM
  #2  
BADASS91B4C's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 206
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From: Sparks, Nevada
Car: 1991 B4C, 1992 RS
Engine: 355, 305
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73, ?
same thing with my car i just lock it by hand it sucks if you find out whats wrong let me know too please ............. thanks
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 08:59 AM
  #3  
JamesC's Avatar
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
This condition seems to be a common problem with our cars. Clean with something like WD-40, then lube with white grease and you should be fine. Do the same with the window tracks and you'll note a definite improvement. Also, note the following link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=124084

JamesC
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 01:12 PM
  #4  
Wi$h's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Houston, TX
Car: 91' Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r-4
ya my 91' Z28 has a similar prob. the driver's side lock will go in but it pops right back out. unlocking both locks works fine and the passenger one locks fine. i talked to a friend who installs keyless entry systems, and he said it was the actuator. He said it would cost about $40 to buy a new one. i had the same problem your having when i had my 85' Blazer. had to sit and push the button a million times to get the lock to finally go. that was just some wiring which i never bothered to mess with.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 01:27 PM
  #5  
IROCZ28dan's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 236
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From: Vineland, NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Its the actuator. Have it replaced.

Thats one of the first things I had done to my car when I bought it and noticed the locks stuck.
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 12:52 PM
  #6  
MHarris's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 54
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From: So. California
Car: '92 Firebird w/T-Tops Black w/Tan Interior
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Originally posted by Wi$h
i talked to a friend who installs keyless entry systems, and he said it was the actuator. He said it would cost about $40 to buy a new one.

Before you go and buy a new actuator you might want to try a few tricks while you're inside the door panel.

Here are two threads I found very usefull.

One deals with pre '89 models having a loose ground screw on the lock relay which is right behind the driver side kick panel.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ght=lazy+locks

The other has instructions on how to take off your door panel and lube everything up. The article is actually for restoring your door panel but it has good instructions for taking it off.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/doorpanel.shtml
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 08:00 PM
  #7  
3gc's Avatar
3gc
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
My locks were doing the same thing. What i did to cure it was remove the door panel and take the latch assembly out of the car and degrease it completely, then spray it liberally with white lithium grease. It has worked fine since.
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