My Cruise control worked when I bought the car, and now it never does, but on long drives i get bored and fiddle with the switch, and like 1 in 50 times it ACTUALLY works, and only for a second too, and it starts pickin up speed when it actually does, so i usually gotta turn it off.... Any one have ideas why?

http://s89706284.onlinehome.us/cruise1.jpg

http://s89706284.onlinehome.us/cruise2.jpg

Theres Diagrams I have in my Book about it....


Does anyone know where the vaccumes ect... are on the car? the diagram says routing, but not where in the engine bay they are. Any one else hd this problem?

THanks :lala:

 

Follow the cable from the throttle. One goes to the gas peddle and the other to the cruise unit.

 

Well if I push on the servo, it moves the throttle... So I know that part is good, lol

How can I check if its the turn signal switch things fault? lol

 

There's an article on the TGO Tech page about it. It really works! You will notice a large vacuum hose coming off of the engine and directing towards the vacuum "storage canister" (large black cannonball-shaped device underneath the car) that has a T that is connected to the servo by another hose. Just because the servo moves doesn't mean it can hold a vacuum very well or that the electronics inside it are working properly. Because of the complexity of the servo, if that turns out to be the bad part, you should replace it or have it serviced.

 

Oh cool... Ill check that thing when I put it on the lifts in shop

BTW do you still want that Altenator bracket Maverick? lol

 

I been scrounging money so that I can pay for the darn thing and the MAF sensor from eBay at the same time. Come 12 feet of snow (dammit!) or not, I am going to the post office tomorrow and getting payments out.

You don't need lifts... it is right there... on your V6, it will be right underneath the parking light on the left side. Heck, it isn't even tough to reach under there and feel the tank with your hand. There is a vacuum line that comes from the back of the plenum T (the small side, on my 87 anyways) and goes to that can, routed near and around the brake booster, connects to the In port for the HVAC system, and then runs to the cruise control servo and the tank thing.

And if you decide to change the switch as described in the tech article, KEEP THE FACTORY WIRE HARNESS that runs to the switch! The wires may be small, but you can get enough length out of them to run to the light switch panel (I don't have fog lights and that is where the switches went). The switches cost me $12 or thereabouts from RadioShack. Another benefit is that people think you are running a nitrous system (bad or good, I don't know. I wouldn't get within a mile of the stuff).

 

LMAO at the Nitrous thing HAHAhA

Trust me, I do need lifts... I know exactly what you are talking about... my car is lowered. I cant fit under my front end at all lol. I use lifts allll the time in class, so its no biggie, lol

 

Didn't know it was THAT low.

I am dead serious about the nitrous switch thing.... I finished test-fitting the switch plate over the summer (when the engine still ran decent ) and my friend and his bro came over. They saw the switch and asked me if I had the stuff.

Personally, I wouldn't do the nitrous thing unless I had a "bulletproof" V8 under the hood, and I'd do a (twin) turbo first before I added the chemical. A car is a big enough potential bomb as it is, I don't need to add another explosive gas to it!

 

Nitrous isnt even flamable. The only way to have it hurt your car is installation error.

 

Ya but using it adds tons of miles to the engine per shot... very hard on it

 

Yeah, that's why it is classified as an oxidizer.... and those are most definitely explosive (hydrogen in air/gas/etc plus oxygen in NO2 plus spark equals BIG BANG!) Why do you think they have those flammable signs on tanks of nitrous they use to fill racing bottles?

 

A cause of mine working when it was in the mood, the main 'motor' diaphragm (the part the pulls the throttle cable) had a small tear in it. It held vacuum only at light throttle, once it had to pull past a certain point (ie, going uphill or, R/A), the leak would kick the cruise off (same effect as what the vacuum switch on the brake pedal does).